Still Smokin'

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

0

1

Jun 11, 2010

#1

• Jun 11, 2010

• #1

Ok. This is the story. I just finished installing a crankshaft repair kit and a new rear main bearing seal. The CRK was installed because the first time I did the rear seal it was still leaking. So, now that I'm done with all of that agonizing work, it's still leaking. I replaced the valve cover gaskets and the pcv valve, cleaned out everything related to the pcv, and put in new hoses going to it. I was driving the car and all of a sudden there's smoke coming up from the center counsel under my shifter. It doesn't smell like oil but I can see fluid on the bottom of the inspection plate. I haven't really gone under there to investigate but I can only assume it's oil again. I can really use some thoughts on this as I've just about had it with working on this car. Thanks all.

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

Jun 11, 2010

#2

• Jun 11, 2010

• #2

Man, that's bummer. Is it possible the new seal wasn't fully seated and maybe it possibly blew out of position under crankcase pressure ? Just a thought.

 

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

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1

Jun 11, 2010

#3

• Jun 11, 2010

• #3

Is that something common that happens after installing a new seal? The seal I bought is from Fram. I really don't want to drop that TR3550 again. It's a pain in the behind since I'm working off the ground. Also, aside from the leak issue, how are the under-drive pulleys to use? I have a set of March pulleys but am worried that I might kill my alternator. I realize that an alternator pulley comes with the set but have read alot of different articles about the pros and cons of the pulleys.

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

Jun 12, 2010

#4

• Jun 12, 2010

• #4

Well, I had that happen on a Taurus SHO I had, different animal I know. The rear exhaust cam seal was really hard to get the best angle on and I may not have seated it well. Maybe you could get under the car and pull back the clutch cable boot and look into the bell housing for signs of oil.

I've been curious how well the crankshaft repair kit works. I know with 230K plus miles my rear main seal has probably grooved the sealing surface.

The underdrive pulleys were one of the few cheap bolt ons I could actually feel a seat of the pants improvement. I do have the 3g alt so that helps. At idle with the AC on the amp meter really drops and lots of times I turn off the AC if I'm at a long redlight.

 

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

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1

Jun 13, 2010

#5

• Jun 13, 2010

• #5

Update,,,took the car out today. didn't notice anymore leaking on newspaper and no smoke coming up through the floor either. thank God. I'm wondering, although it seems unlikely, if the seal just needed some time to set in place so to speak..... black magic fan and new hoses tomorrow.

 

KamiKaziDK

Member

May 16, 2005

555

0

17

Mesa, Az

Jun 13, 2010

#6

• Jun 13, 2010

• #6

Could have just been some left over crap coming off something else too

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

Jun 13, 2010

#7

• Jun 13, 2010

• #7

Sweet !

 

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

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1

Jun 29, 2010

#8

• Jun 29, 2010

• #8

OMG! I can not believe this car! It's stops smokin' and starts smokin' again. I mean, what gives?! I thought my problems were over but guess again. I can only figure that it's a bad seal. I just have one question. I'm sure that I put that seal on with equal amounts of force at all points. The crankshaft repair kit tool actually helped out with that. Who would've thought?..lol. Anyway, say you're putting the seal in and one side of it decides to slip all the way in while the other side is still hangin on the outs. Will that damage the seal in any way? I didn't mean to do this when I was installing the seal, and it didn't happen with the first seal I installed, but it happened and I'm wondering if the seal may have been bent when it happened. Also, I've heard that if you install a crankshaft repair kit the fram rear main seal will not work with it. Is that true? And, if so, would there be another brand seal that would work with the crk? The next thing I'm going to buy is a sledge hammer. :OT:

 

BlackGT89

Member

Dec 16, 2002

774

8

18

Huntsville, AL

Jun 29, 2010

#9

• Jun 29, 2010

• #9

Just curious, what method did you use to seat the seal ?

 

L

Lawbreaker5.0

Member

Feb 20, 2009

543

2

18

Texas

Jun 30, 2010

#10

• Jun 30, 2010

• #10

I had a problem with my rear main seal in the vert I did it three times and it still leaked. I talked around to some folks and found out I was suppose to apply rtv under the last main cap when I rebuilt the bottom end and I didn't. So I can only assume that's where it's leaking from. I rtv'd my 93 coupe under the cap slapped in the rear main seal while the cap was off with no rtv around the rim(like most people suggest) and I have no leaks whatsoever. Just passing along my experience with them.

 

EMW150

Founding Member

May 22, 2000

2,020

1

46

Roaring Spring,PA

Jul 1, 2010

#11

• Jul 1, 2010

• #11

Did you seal the flywheel bolts? ARP thread sealer works well. If not they can leak because those holes go right into the crankcase. Also make sure it's not the rear of the pan leaking instead of the rear main. Did you oil the crank and rubber lip on the seal? Just throwing some ideas out there for you.

 

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

0

1

Jul 2, 2010

#12

• Jul 2, 2010

• #12

EMW150 said:

Did you seal the flywheel bolts? ARP thread sealer works well. If not they can leak because those holes go right into the crankcase. Also make sure it's not the rear of the pan leaking instead of the rear main. Did you oil the crank and rubber lip on the seal? Just throwing some ideas out there for you.

Click to expand...

Yea, I made sure I sealed the flywheel bolts. I made one big mistake though when I went on my "adaptation parts" shopping spree. I didn't purchase the driveshaft spacer needed when installing a Tremec. I noticed that there's a little fluid oozing out of the tailshaft because of it. That has to be where the leak is coming from. Also, the smoke that comes up does not smell like oil at all. I ordered the spacer from UPR and should be getting it by Tuesday or Wednesday next week. I pray that that's all it is. Is it possible that tranny fluid is leaking from the front of the tranny?

 

L

Lawbreaker5.0

Member

Feb 20, 2009

543

2

18

Texas

Jul 2, 2010

#13

• Jul 2, 2010

• #13

If it's anything like a t5 than yeah they have front seals that can leak. But you should ne able to dab some on a white paper towel and see if it's red. Then you would know it's tranny fluid.

 

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

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1

Jul 3, 2010

#14

• Jul 3, 2010

• #14

Lawbreaker5.0 said:

If it's anything like a t5 than yeah they have front seals that can leak. But you should ne able to dab some on a white paper towel and see if it's red. Then you would know it's tranny fluid.

Click to expand...

Is there a fix for that or would that just be a warranty issue? If it's a warranty issue, then I'm screwed because I bought this trans quite some time ago and just didn't get to use it. It just sat in my garage for an x-amount of years. I can always throw the stock trans back in but what fun would that be.

 

1993SVT

New Member

May 25, 2010

29

0

1

Jul 3, 2010

#15

• Jul 3, 2010

• #15

BlackGT89 said:

Just curious, what method did you use to seat the seal ?

Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay dude, just caught this. I first put it up against the crank with my fingers and pressed until it stayed by itself. Then, I used the crankshaft repair kit install tool and tapped on the outskirts of that until the seal was all the way in. To be sure it was even on all sides, I went around again with the socket(female) end of a 3/8" extension and tapped around the seal and block(1/2 on the seal and 1/2 on the block portion around the seal). Works perfect. I did put a little oil around the lip of the seal and around the crank before I did this though.