Engine Stock fan replacement need to move more air

Stangstroke · Nov 14, 2012

My engine temps are always creeping above 220 on hot days and i'd like to know if there is a replacement fan that fits in the stock shroud to move more air? I think the problem is the stock fan can't keep up to moving enough air as i have the air to water intercooler and the AC condensor in front of my Fluidyne rad.

Yellow302 · Nov 14, 2012

The computer does not enguage the high speed fan mode until 210 deg. Low speed at 190-195ish
So unless you get a manual fan switch or reprogram your computer.
A new fan will help stablize your engine temp but not get it lower than the programed temp.

VibrantRedGT · Nov 14, 2012

The stock fan engages at like 212 degrees. You'll need to run a manual switch. I rigged mine to turn on HIGH key ON.

Gearbanger 101 · Nov 14, 2012

This might just be an instance where a cooler themostat would be a good idea. What have you got in it now?

HISSIN50 · Nov 14, 2012

Stangstroke said:
....... i'd like to know if there is a replacement fan that fits in the stock shroud......

You want to install a different motor and blade inside the stock shroud? Or you're willing to install a new fan assembly?

Agreed with the other guys. If your fan and/or t-stat are near stock configuration (stock stat temp and stock fan control), lowering the temp ratings for both should help.

Otherwise, it's worth asking if the car cools ok at speed or if it runs that hot at all times.

95Vert383AOD · Nov 14, 2012

I control mine with a SCT chip. Its so much easier than cutting, splicing, jerry rigging something around the CCRM which is a superior method of controlling temps. Based on your sig. i would think you had some method of tuning that would allow you to manipulate the fan settings. Changing the thermostat to a lower temp is praxctically worthless without telling the fan to come on at a lower temp.

BUT if all else fails (after setting temps via. the computer) you can always use a Mark 8 fan. (same plug) It will only work on 1 speed but they pull so much air it doesn't matter.

VibrantRedGT · Nov 15, 2012

I would avoid rigging anything up to the CCRM directly. I use a 30A Relay, power from the distribution box in the engine bay and that's all. People have messed with the #17 wire on the CCRM but you can do some damage this way. Another way like mentioned is through a chip. The twEECer has a fan setting as well. If you're not running a 180 thermostat now is the time. The stock OEM fan is excellent, no need to change it. My car rarely ran over 185 during 100 degree summers here in Florida. An aluminum radiator, fan on HIGH, 180 Stat, 60/40 Water Coolant ratio and bottle of water wetter is all of my cooling upgrades.

psychorugby · Nov 15, 2012

VibrantRedGT said:
I would avoid rigging anything up to the CCRM directly. I use a 30A Relay, power from the distribution box in the engine bay and that's all. People have messed with the #17 wire on the CCRM but you can do some damage this way. Another way like mentioned is through a chip. The twEECer has a fan setting as well. If you're not running a 180 thermostat now is the time. The stock OEM fan is excellent, no need to change it. My car rarely ran over 185 during 100 degree summers here in Florida. An aluminum radiator, fan on HIGH, 180 Stat, 60/40 Water Coolant ratio and bottle of water wetter is all of my cooling upgrades.

Which radiator do you run? I am considering going with an aluminum unit eventually.

VibrantRedGT · Nov 15, 2012

C&R Aluminum from Steeda. C&R is what NASCAR and other racing teams used. This was back in 2001. I think they sell Fluidyne now.

95Vert383AOD · Nov 15, 2012

I run a C&R Aluminum i got pretty cheap a while back. They make alot of OEM ford stuff

Stangstroke · Feb 25, 2013

I'm running a fluidyne but the problem is i still like AC so i have the ac condensor infront of my rad and also my A2A intercooler infront of all that so by the time the air gets to my rad it's hot so i need to find a way to draw more air. I'm also running a 180 Stat.

ratio411 · Feb 26, 2013

Like everyone else said... It's not the fan.
It is either when it is coming on, or if it is coming on.
You can lose hi or low speed without losing the other, so that may be an issue.
Our 94 has funtional A/C, auto tranny, and the cooling system is totally stock except for 180 stat and add-on tranny cooler, and the car cools fine here in Florida.
You have some other issue.

Edit:
I just realized you have an intercooler.
I don't have one of those, so I am bowing out of the discussion.

95Vert383AOD · Feb 27, 2013

Whats your timing set to? I know sometimes that can cause overheating/ hard starting.

ratio411 · Feb 27, 2013

95Vert383AOD said:
Whats your timing set to? I know sometimes that can cause overheating/ hard starting.

As can spark plugs of the wrong heat range.
Too hot plugs can overheat a car QUICK!
I have run hot plugs, started the car dead cold, and it was overheating a mile from home.
Went back to previous plugs, it never overheated, just as before.

revhead347 · Mar 1, 2013

You could try running a high flow thermostat, but with all that going on, it might not be enough. My understanding is that the baddest fan you can buy for a stock electrical system is the stock fan out of a 95ish Taurus 3.8L. They sell with the shroud new on ebay for like $80. Flows around 3800 cfms from what I've heard. I've seen them on Mustangs, and even though they don't look perfectly stock, they look pretty close. If that's not enough, throw a pusher on the front of the condenser core if you have enough room.

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