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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Stock to Cobra brakes....almost finished.

  • Thread starter Thread starter claytucc3
  • Start date Start date Jul 24, 2009
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claytucc3

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Mar 9, 2003
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Jul 24, 2009
#1
  • Jul 24, 2009
  • #1
Okay so I pretty much already have the entire job done. I am putting 03 Cobra brakes and wheels on my fox. I have the spindles, brakes and everything else installed. I am just trying to find out what you guys did to bolt the soft lines from the Cobra brakes to the hard lines on the car. I have looked at all of the websites for a simple adapter with no luck. Thanks
 
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claytucc3

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Jul 24, 2009
#2
  • Jul 24, 2009
  • #2
I know that you can buy the stainless steel hoses but I don't have the funds for that right now. I found a website through the stickies here on how to change the brakes over and the guy that ran that website sells the kit. After some unpleasant emails from him I decided to take my business elsewhere. So where is elsewhere....lol?
 

Kumm3

Founding Member
Jul 30, 2002
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69
East Hartford, CT
Jul 24, 2009
#3
  • Jul 24, 2009
  • #3
go to a napa or any parts store and raid the weatherhead fitting display, bring both softlines with you, they should be able to help you find an adapter to fit the new brake line onto the existing hardline.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jul 24, 2009
#4
  • Jul 24, 2009
  • #4
Weatherhead 7828 is what you need on the passenger side.

NAPA has them
 
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claytucc3

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#5
  • Jul 24, 2009
  • #5
Thx fellas.....this was a bigger project that I had imagined......
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Jul 25, 2009
#6
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #6
It is a big job but the pay off of 4 Wheel Cobra Discs is absolutely night and day difference!
 
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claytucc3

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Jul 25, 2009
#7
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #7
Ok brakes are in....I avoided all of the adapter drama by cutting the tubes and installing the old fitting that came with the 03 brakes and then flared the tubing. The old fittings were a bit weathered any ways. Now to the master cylinder. Any suggestions or tips on installing this one? I already have it from a 95 V6, but it looks like it will be the most difficult part of the entire conversion.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Massachusetts
Jul 25, 2009
#8
  • Jul 25, 2009
  • #8
Master cylinder is easy. Booster is the tough part.

What rear brakes are you using? stock drums?
 
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claytucc3

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Jul 26, 2009
#9
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #9
I am installing the complete 03 Cobra brake system front and rear.
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
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Jul 26, 2009
#10
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #10
The best match for those brakes will be a 1993 Cobra Brake Booster and Master Cylinder, dont forget to gut the prop valve and add an adjustable one.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Massachusetts
Jul 26, 2009
#11
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #11
claytucc3 said:
I am installing the complete 03 Cobra brake system front and rear.
Click to expand...


I just did the same swap. I installed a 94-95 GT/V6 MC and the pedal was so hard i could not drive the car safely. I installed an SN95 booster and it helped a bit, but i had to ditch the 94-95 GT MC and run a 1993 Cobra MC to get the brakes to feel right.

I second the 93 Cobra MC and Booster for you
 
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claytucc3

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Jul 26, 2009
#12
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #12
I read this on MJBobbits brake website through the sticky discussion on this forum:

From:
Fox Body Mustang MC and PV Upgrades

If you are planning on running the Cobra or Brembo brakes, then I would suggest the '93 Cobra or '94-95 Cobra 15/16" MC with the stock booster. This will give you a pedal that is not to hard.

'93 Cobra - (metric threads) 1.00" bore
'94-95 GT/V6 - (metric threads) 1 1/16" bore, stock plug in for the low fluid sensor
'94-98 V6 - (metric threads) 1 1/16" bore, stock plug in for the low fluid sensor
'94-95 Cobra - (metric threads) 15/16" bore, stock plug in for low fluid sensor. Ports are reversed thread sizes from 87-95 LX/V6/GT
'99 V6 - (metric threads) 1.000" and 1.006" bore. Can be converted to work for the low fluid sensor on the fox3 cars
96+ V8 Units - These are hydroboosted and the mounted flange is vertically vs horizontal required for a vacuum booster. They will NOT work



Has anyone tried using their stock booster with the Cobra MC? This would be a much easier swap if the stock booster is retained. I have a 96 V6 MC and Booster I bought for $25 off of Craigslist.Also does the stock reservoir bolt onto the 93 Cobra MC?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,945
224
Massachusetts
Jul 26, 2009
#13
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #13
Unfortunately you cannot use the '96 booster. The brake arm is straight and may pose alignment issues when connecting to the brake pedal and cause bind. The correct and only booster you should use would be from a 1994-1995 Mustang or a 1993 cobra. 1993 cobra would be the most direct bolt in since the mounting bolt pattern is the same as the fox booster.

As for using the 94-95 Cobra MC...you can, but the fitting nuts are reversed. Reason you don't see a lot of people using them is because you'll need the MC and the brake lines off a 94-95 cobra that connect the MC to the prop valve. Prob is the cobras are ABS, so there is no direct swap. You would need to track down the correct metric fittings, and make your own lines from the prop valve to the MC basically.

However, it is your best swap at keeping the stock booster, but in terms of which is more of a PITA..i would say the booster swap would be easier. More than likely you will need to change it. But you can try it out and see how you like.

But i can garantee you the 96 MC will give you a stiff pedal with the stock booster. My first drive with stock booster and 1 1/16" MC gave me a pedal so hard i could barely stop from 30MPH without two feet on the pedal.

I swapped the SN95 booster in and it was driveable, but i could not lock the wheels up and the pedal was still firm. So i ditched the 1 1/16" MC for the Cobra MC and all was good!

The resevior can be swapped between the MC's. I beleive it is the same part. up til 1998.

Keep in mind there are two different Cobra calipers. The 94-98 38mm units, and the 99+ 40mm units. The above site was written before the 40mm units came out.
 
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claytucc3

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Jul 26, 2009
#14
  • Jul 26, 2009
  • #14
It was my understanding that the 96 V6 booster would work but not the GT's.

From that website.
If that still does not help, then you can consider two options. The first being to change to a smaller master cylinder. The second it to upgrade the brake booster. Any of the 94-95s and 94+ V6 units will work.

I did not realize that the site was pre 99 up Cobra's that makes sense that we need a larger booster with the larger brakes. Will I be able to tell by looking at the booster that I have if it will work or not? Also the booster/MC that I have had the prop valve from the 96 V6. Should I use that one or should I use mine and use the MM proportioning Valve kit that I have?

I have seen mustangs where the did away with the stock proportioning valve altogether and only had an adjustable unit. Is that a bad option?
 
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claytucc3

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Jul 27, 2009
#15
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #15
The brake arms were the same in both my original and my 96 V6 model. I removed the stock one and I started to install the V6 unit today and realized quickly that I was going to need to take my TrickFlow upper intake off to make room to install the larger booster. I know you were saying not to use the 96 MC but with the larger booster I am wondering if it will be adequate. I will try it out and see what happens. I will keep you guys updated. Thanks again for all of your input......
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,945
224
Massachusetts
Jul 27, 2009
#16
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #16
You can use the 96 MC. It will work fine.

It's the booster that has a different arm, although if you say it is curved like the fox booster, then it should work.

You can ditch the stock PV provided you do two things. #1, install adjustabl prop valve to rear brakes and #2, gotta keep the front and rear brakes separated for safety reasons. The rear port on the MC is the front brakes, so the two front lines must join here, the front port is the rear line. The Max Motorsports PV elim kit would work nicely here
 
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claytucc3

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Mar 9, 2003
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Jul 27, 2009
#17
  • Jul 27, 2009
  • #17
Yeah I made a bunch of measurement and the brake shaft is identical curved angle and all. I believe that it is the GT units that are straight shaft. The only thing that is different is that the booster is HUGE compared to the stock one. Everything is in the way....lol.

I'm gonna try to get the booster installed today. My brake fittings were all but destroyed in order to take them off. I have a car that came from back east and everything is corroded and rusted. I could prob re-use them but I would rather have all new hardware.

So if I am using an adjustable proportion valve why do I even need to gut the stock one? Can't I just remove it and clean up my engine compartment a little bit? I think the purpose of retaining it is to keep from having to cut and flare hard lines right?
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,356
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Ohio
Jul 28, 2009
#18
  • Jul 28, 2009
  • #18
You keep the stock PV to retain the Shuttle Valve portion of it.
 
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claytucc3

New Member
Mar 9, 2003
825
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Santa Clarita, Ca
Aug 4, 2009
#19
  • Aug 4, 2009
  • #19
Okay fellas, everything is in except for the rear brakes. I am waiting on my axles, I will be getting them tommorow from the Santa in Brown.... The SN95 booster was a @#$% to get in, but I did. I have a good flaring kit so I redid most of the fittinngs and lines. Now, does anyne have any links to illistrated installation of the North Racecars adapter plates? They did not come with instrucitons, also they have L stamped and R written on one bracket and R stamped and L written on the other. I am not sure which one goes where.
 
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