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Strange clutch cable adjustment question..

  • Thread starter Thread starter 4000 Pounds of Iron
  • Start date Start date Feb 4, 2006

4000 Pounds of Iron

Founding Member
Nov 6, 1999
473
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0
Nashville, TN
Feb 4, 2006
#1
  • Feb 4, 2006
  • #1
I have a 1986 former V6 car with a carbureted 1991 5.0 and a four-cylinder T5 behind it. The pedal assembly is from a 1992 four-cylinder car, and I am using a new Hays aftermarket aluminum quadrant and Hays' own adjustable cable. This cable seems to be of higher quality than other adjustable cables I've used -- it has metal fittings instead of nylon and eliminates the rubber firewall grommet for a solid bushing. My clutch is from my old 1995 5.0, I had it re-frictioned and the pressure plate resurfaced at a local clutch shop. The flywheel was recently resurfaced as well.

My problem is this: Even with the cable adjusted as tightly as possible, the clutch still releases right on the floor, making it difficult to drive. The action of the clutch also has a very gradual engagement, with a very vague friction point. Is the pedal assembly somehow inappropriate for my setup, or what have I done wrong?


4k#Fe
 
8

86bluecobra

Advanced Member
Dec 20, 2004
4,265
12
69
B.C. Canada
Feb 4, 2006
#2
  • Feb 4, 2006
  • #2
is it a double hook quadrent? maybe if it is you could loosen clutch adjustment and put it on second hook of quadrent.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Feb 4, 2006
#3
  • Feb 4, 2006
  • #3
You could shim the cable at the firewall (in addition to the existing solid bushing or whatever it has). That would take more slack out. Otherwise the cable might be stretched (I dont think it is an SN95 cable, but they are longer than fox cables). If wanting a decent adjustable cable, I liked my Ford adjustable one (on an SVO single hood quadrant - nice combo).

Good luck.
 

4000 Pounds of Iron

Founding Member
Nov 6, 1999
473
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0
Nashville, TN
Feb 4, 2006
#4
  • Feb 4, 2006
  • #4
I guess I'm not making this quite clear -- the cable is adjusted so that it's snug against the fork, but there doesn't seem to be enough travel in the pedal to properly operate it.

Is there any difference between the 4 and 8 cylinder pedals?

4k#Fe
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Feb 5, 2006
#5
  • Feb 5, 2006
  • #5
I see your point now. Since you mention that the engagment duration is long, I am with you on the mechanical advantage issue (esp if the pedal is easier to push than it was with that same PP on your other car). But I have never had a PP reconditioned, so I wouldnt know what that feels like if gone bad.

I totally see what you mean but simply dont know. Good luck and bump for those that might know (I am thinking V8 only, for one, might know).

Good luck.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
14
89
Dallas, TX
Feb 5, 2006
#6
  • Feb 5, 2006
  • #6
4000 Pounds of Iron said:
I guess I'm not making this quite clear -- the cable is adjusted so that it's snug against the fork, but there doesn't seem to be enough travel in the pedal to properly operate it.

Is there any difference between the 4 and 8 cylinder pedals?

4k#Fe
Click to expand...
There are some differences between the two.

I did a auto-T5 swap and used 4 cylinder pedals and the pedal would not push in far enough to fully dissengage the clutch. It would bottom out on the floor and I had a hard time getting the car in gear.

This was with a brand new factory clutch cable and KC clutch w/ aluminum quadrant.

To fix the problem I had to add a firewall adjuster to take up some slack in the cable. After that it worked like a champ!

Sounds like all you need is a FWA and you should be just fine.

Good Luck.
 
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