Strange Gurgling Sound In Exhaust

Moosee1955 · Oct 10, 2016

I agree with Mr burns about cleaning out old iac valve. They are a serviceable item. The only reason I recommended a new one is that was the direction you wanted to go. High fuel consumption on any computer controlled vehicle can be a stuck open fuel injector, a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator, malfunctioning o2 sensor, or plugged cat convertors. As far as the obd2 tool, any parts store or repair facility will run your dtc codes. Please if you haven't already done it , have a fuel pressure test done on vehicle With the fuel your burning you need a jump off point to start from.

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inenidok · Oct 11, 2016

Moosee1955 said:
I agree with Mr burns about cleaning out old iac valve. They are a serviceable item. The only reason I recommended a new one is that was the direction you wanted to go. High fuel consumption on any computer controlled vehicle can be a stuck open fuel injector, a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator, malfunctioning o2 sensor, or plugged cat convertors. As far as the obd2 tool, any parts store or repair facility will run your dtc codes. Please if you haven't already done it , have a fuel pressure test done on vehicle With the fuel your burning you need a jump off point to start from.

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done ran codes nothing took iac off looked brand new cleaned ir anyway no change checked vacuum lines did not see or hear anything, so I guess need to find something else to look at

wmburns · Oct 11, 2016

Does your car still have the square box "silencer" in the IAC line?

See the BBK link about "vacuum lock".
http://www.bbkperformance.com/installation_faqs.php?ihk=1

inenidok · Oct 11, 2016

wmburns said:
Does your car still have the square box "silencer" in the IAC line?

See the BBK link about "vacuum lock".
http://www.bbkperformance.com/installation_faqs.php?ihk=1

yes it does still have that. I took it to fellow mechanics and we found the noise is in the intake all the way up to the filter we checked egr and iac both new and egr not clogged, we are thinking the intake valves may not closing completely most of the time

inenidok · Oct 11, 2016

I will look at removing the square box

Rusty67 · Oct 12, 2016

If you think the valves aren't closing all the way, run a compression check on all the cylinders to verify.

inenidok · Oct 12, 2016

Rusty67 said:
If you think the valves aren't closing all the way, run a compression check on all the cylinders to verify.

I am planning on it as soon as I can get it to a shop

inenidok · Nov 26, 2016

okay update found a mustang shop took off cats put on expipe, because the intake was filling with back pressure, we assumed cats was clogged. well sound continue no change, was fixing to leave the car at the shop for a couple of weeks so they could really check it out, because the smoke test found nothing. well after putting gas in it the sound really got bad and blowed the 3rd plug out on the passenger head, so the car lot I bought it from has picked the car up to look at it,

Rusty67 · Nov 26, 2016

So did the shop ever run a compression/leak down test? Did they do any diag or just start replacing parts and changing you for parts/materials?

inenidok · Nov 26, 2016

we done a smoke test I had talk to mechanic possible cats stopped up so I order the expipe because I confirm what he said is possible so I order the pipe found mustang shop we installed the expipe the sound was still there we done the smoke test, no answers so I made a appointment to leave the car this past weekend for him to do the compression test but the car blew the plug before I could get back to the shop

inenidok · Nov 26, 2016

so the car lot has the car now to check it out which now I will never know what the out come is

I do know the shop I took it to showed me they had installed new intake new iac valve and a new egr too right before I bought it

inenidok · Mar 8, 2017

Ok give you all an update, well with not having all the tools to check the car out, i took it to the dealer, they said everything checked out ok the injectors, coils the computer all the electrical stuff, they said everything pointed to bad intake that the dormans had a bad habit not sealing well 1250.00 later new ford pi intake installed, and still no fix, i guess next option new injectors and coils or new heads, and cams timing chain, i do have chain rattle at start up then it goes way in a couple of seconds.

Rusty67 · Mar 9, 2017

I'm going to ask this question again. Have you have you had a compression and leak down test done?

Also, if your timing chain is off and the cam timing is off, that could be your issue right there.

From the outside looking in it seems like you are allowing shops to just throw parts at the problem without any proof that the part being replaced is faulty. You will spend a million dollars and not fix the car this way. You need a shop that will take a scientific and systematic approach to solving your issue. You could literally junkyard a good motor and drop it in for cheaper than what you have spent on this repair so far.

inenidok · Mar 9, 2017

I took it to thr local ford dealer they said everything checked out ok. Timing everything checked out ok they said intake was bad and all the test they ran showed it to be bad. I assumed they done a compression test on it. I dont have the equipment to do the test on compression nor a driveway or place to work, so my only option is dealer the local shops here wanted throw parts at it so that is why i went to Ford to find the problem, i am to upside down in the car to sell it so i am stuck. So i am taking it back to ford to see what they say. I may just put a complete rebuilt motor in the car.

Rusty67 · Mar 9, 2017

I can't stress this enough, do not assume they did a test. Ask them for the results of the test and if they didn't do it they will tell you they didn't. Also, if you didn't ask them to do a compression and leak down test, they probably didn't. If a shop wants to throw parts at it, they should be required to tell you what it costs before charging you for parts. If they don't do the up front diag work and have a reasonable idea of what the problem really is, then don't OK the work.

inenidok · Mar 11, 2017

Well they did sit down and explain what they did and what they found. To me and my wife. So i have her taking the car back to them weds to have a compression test on it. I want to make sure the compression is ok. I have done a lot of old school work on cars and trucks when i had a place to live. Nothing this complicated. Most complicated engine i redone was a 96 sho 32v v8, and it was the most expensive too. Next to this mustang. That sho broke me from overhead cam motors i dont like them at all. But if i can figure out this mess out maybe i can help someone else out

inenidok · Mar 11, 2017

Rusty67 said:
I can't stress this enough, do not assume they did a test. Ask them for the results of the test and if they didn't do it they will tell you they didn't. Also, if you didn't ask them to do a compression and leak down test, they probably didn't. If a shop wants to throw parts at it, they should be required to tell you what it costs before charging you for parts. If they don't do the up front diag work and have a reasonable idea of what the problem really is, then don't OK the work.

They told me up front intake manifold is bad. That would fix it. No it did not fix it. They told us all there test showed intake was the problem

Rusty67 · Mar 11, 2017

Well, it could be a problem somewhere along the lines in the intake system but not in the intake manifold. Bent valves on the intake which would cause a loss of compression, and especially show up in a leak down test if they were only slightly not seating.

Also, I reread your original post. It is possible that the cam timing is off due to a bad cam alignment plate. This happened on my dad's car. The car had a strange chronic problem where it would run rough and then magically be ok. It broke a few spark plugs. Ford could never figure out the problem. Finally it had a major detonation and blew apart one of the pistons on the drives side bank. This was because the cam was constantly advancing and retarding because the plate on the front where the cam keys into the plate was a defective piece and hole was widening out. Uncontrolled variable cam timing is no bueno. You would need to pull the timing cover off the front of the motor to check it so there is a lot of labor there.

Is the car still getting terrible gas mileage? Have the dealer check to make sure the ECU isn't running on limp home mode. If the ECU has really weird readings from a sensor it can go into limp mode. Limited Operation Strategy - Limp Home Mode (LOS) makes the car run like crap and can be caused by a mechanical malfunction or a bad sensor. The bitch is, it doesn't always throw a check engine light. If the car is in limp home mode, it will run rich and usually get ty mileage. The dealer should have the car run a cylinder balance test as well as the compression test. The balance test will rotate through dropping one cylinder at a time until it has done it to all 8 and if it finds one cylinder to cause a drop in RPM outside the range it will fail that check. This could be cause by a leaking or stopped fuel injector as it does this by cutting fuel on the cylinder it is testing.

True troubleshooting is the only way to fix this issue. I really wish you the best of luck on this and hope something you find here will help you solve the problems with this car.

inenidok · Mar 11, 2017

Rusty67 said:
Well, it could be a problem somewhere along the lines in the intake system but not in the intake manifold. Bent valves on the intake which would cause a loss of compression, and especially show up in a leak down test if they were only slightly not seating.

Also, I reread your original post. It is possible that the cam timing is off due to a bad cam alignment plate. This happened on my dad's car. The car had a strange chronic problem where it would run rough and then magically be ok. It broke a few spark plugs. Ford could never figure out the problem. Finally it had a major detonation and blew apart one of the pistons on the drives side bank. This was because the cam was constantly advancing and retarding because the plate on the front where the cam keys into the plate was a defective piece and hole was widening out. Uncontrolled variable cam timing is no bueno. You would need to pull the timing cover off the front of the motor to check it so there is a lot of labor there.

Is the car still getting terrible gas mileage? Have the dealer check to make sure the ECU isn't running on limp home mode. If the ECU has really weird readings from a sensor it can go into limp mode. Limited Operation Strategy - Limp Home Mode (LOS) makes the car run like crap and can be caused by a mechanical malfunction or a bad sensor. The **** is, it doesn't always throw a check engine light. If the car is in limp home mode, it will run rich and usually get ****ty mileage. The dealer should have the car run a cylinder balance test as well as the compression test. The balance test will rotate through dropping one cylinder at a time until it has done it to all 8 and if it finds one cylinder to cause a drop in RPM outside the range it will fail that check. This could be cause by a leaking or stopped fuel injector as it does this by cutting fuel on the cylinder it is testing.

True troubleshooting is the only way to fix this issue. I really wish you the best of luck on this and hope something you find here will help you solve the problems with this car.

Well i am planning on doing a timing chain install. Just because of start up rattle now after the compression test. To determine if i need to pull heads or not? If i need to pull heads i will do a cam swap and rebuild the heads. If heads are good and gaskets are good i may do yhe timing chain install and cam swap. Gas mileage okay it does seem to have a flat spot or miss at a certain speed. Like when you give it more gas it likevit miss or stumbles.

But timing chain is on my list to get done

inenidok · Mar 11, 2017

I will have them to check ecm too if they did not do it and i am replacing injectors

Strange Gurgling Sound In Exhaust

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