Stroker Info / Testimonials

Route666

Active Member
Aug 16, 2003
1,652
6
39
Brisbane, Australia
I hope some of you guys can help me with this. I'm looking for information on smallblock (302 and 351) strokers. I was initially just interested in fuel mileage, though I would like to hear about reliability etc.

Details I would like included are:

stroker type (331, 408, etc)
vehicle weight
manual / auto
rear gears
power output
fuel mileage

A breif description of the vehicle's build intentions would be good too. Like whether you built it for drag racing, reliable daily driving, performance weekender, etc.

Also, if you've had any issues with reliability, chuck those in too. I don't really want heresay about specific stroker kits, just reliability from your engine, although I won't knock discussion on the different kits.

Of course, if you don't know everything, tell me what you can, have a round-about guess at the things you don't know.
 
347 stroker
2800 lbs +/-
5 speed manual
4.11
450 HP (managed a 109 MPH trap speed with one pass, alot more is expected with more tuning)
12 city/16 freeway

Designed for the weekend warrior

Motor has been extremely reliable.
 
stroker

I built a 347, it was awesome, but the 331 is a better bet for the street with fuel economy and everyday use. Plus, history has shown the 331 better for piston ring life and oil consumption.
The 331 is a nice one for the street if you don't see any track duty.
I have some experience with a Keith Craft 408 stroker, but it was with a large Procharger, so I'm not sure how it would be without it.
BLP
 
stroker type - 347
vehicle weight - 66 Coupe 3000+/-
manual / auto - Auto, built C-4 2500 Stall
rear gears - 3:70
power output - too many changes since dyno (estimate 450HP at the crank)
fuel mileage - Don't care, never really checked, wouldn't want to know

Built the car to handle well, a toy to play with on the weekends, drive to work once a week and drag race about three Nostalgia races per season. The motor has been extremely reliable, can idle in traffic on hot Missouri days, drive to the office and carve corners 60 miles round trip with no problems and throw on the slicks and run in the mid 11's consistantly through exhaust with a low stall and not worry about breaking parts.

Some people have commented and I read in some magizines that my CAM is borderline for the street but for my use it's fine. Does is draw attention at stoplights, yes. Is it too much horsepower for my street tires to ever think about hooking, yes. Would I change anything, probably after I get the drag racing out of my system I will go with a stout 5 speed and maybe go race around some corners.

I have had the motor in for almost two summers and it seems fine. Here is my build. Good luck.


• Lunati Iron Crank, Lunati street / race rods
• KB hypereutectic flat domes w/ 6.5cc reliefs
• Clevite bearings
• All ARP hardware
• BHJ billet crank damper
• Pioneer flexplate
• Probe girdle
• Canton 7 qt pan
• Comp cams aluminum roller rockers 1.6:1
• Holley laser shot 9mm plug wires
• Comp cam Xtreme Energy 35-518-8 hydraulic roller Cam Duration @.050 224 – 232, valve lift .555 - .565, lobe separation angle 112 degrees
• AFR 185 heads ported and polished by Joe Mondella (documented flow charts)
• MSD Pro billet distributor
• Hooker super comp ceramic coated long tubes 1 5/8” primary, 3” collectors
• Weiland aluminum water pump
• Port Matched Victor JR Single Plane intake manifold (Plenum opened up big time)
• Elgin high volume pump and timing set
• Holley blue fuel pump w/ regulator
• Mighty Demon 650 carb (flows 753CFM wet)
• MSD 6AL, blaster 2 coil
• Currie 9” w/ 3:70 Detroit true trac
• TCP Upper control arms w/ 620lbs Mustangs Plus 1” coils
• Sway Bars
• TCP Sub-frame connectors
• TCP Solid Motor mounts
• 2500 Stall, C-4 massaged tranny
• Street Wheels – Vintage Wheel Works 16X8 Vintage 50’s w 245/50/16 & 225/50/16 Comp T/A
• Strip wheels Drag light w/ Hoosier 26X9.0X15
• 10.8:1 COMPRESSION
 
347
SVO balancer
forged crank
forged h beam rods
forged flat top pistons
total seal rings
race bearings(a lil harder than your normal bearing)
1/2" girdle
TFS heads ported and polished flow 295 215 @ .500 lift
1.6 probe rockers
.542 563 cam
rpm efi intake
30 lb injectors
75 mm tb
250 shot direct port nitrous
c4 with 3000 stall
4.56 full spool 31 spline 8.8
drag use.
79 notchback converted to look like 87-93
10 point cage. mini tubed.
Looking for first ever 9 or low 10 sec pass.
Total cost so far including car: 3K :)
Getting it done and adding another car to your sig: priceless.
 
allcarfan said:
WasMO...

Just wondering what hood and aircleaner you are using? And...how big is the air cleaner?

It's a stock steel hood and the previous owner bolted on a 66 shelby look alike scoop for looks and didn't open up the hood. When I went with the Vic Jr I had to make that scoop functional by cutting a hole in the hood to clear the wing nut on my cleaner. The air cleaner is one of those edelbrock triangle looking ones with I thin a 2" K&N filter.

Like I said the only thing that didn't clear was the wing nut and just a bit of the cleaner.

PS - I also have TCP solid motor mounts if that makes any difference.
 
Thanks for the input. I dont know about the solid motor mounts. I have a vic jr style intake and a speed demon im about to put on and I was wonder if a 2 3/8" thick air cleaner was going to fit under a hood with a shelby scoop...with a BIG HOLE. Im going to use some clay first to double check.

Sorry for the thread hijack Route666.

I am building a 331 stroker though. TW heads that flow over 300cfm, xe282 HR cam, vic jr intake, 650 speed demon, ross pistons, h beam eagle rods, ...and some other goodies. Hoping for 400 hp to the wheels through a C4 and a 9"
 
393 Windsor 1971 block
Scat Iron crank
Forged H beam rods
Probe -4cc forged pistons
10.5:1 compression
AFR 185 heads, stage 2 port
Solid Roller cam-.585 lift 248 degrees duration @.050 110 Lobe seperation
Performer RPM Air Gap (port matched)
Mighty Demon 750 mechanical secondaries
Hedman Shorty headers
Davis race series HEI distributor

Other items include a 7 quart road race pan from Canton. Stud girdle and windage tray. ARP studs and bolts on entire engine.

Best guess on H.P. is around 500.

87
 
allcarfan said:
Sal...

What block are you using?

I'm living on the edge with a stock block. :nonono:

I didn't buy each component of the block at a time.

If it were up to me and had I paid anything close to full price for everything I would have gotten I beam rods and possibly a cast crank because we all know that the block will break at the same level these do so no point on having them stronger with a weak block.

Let's just say I have about 2k into the COMPLETE forged motor. :hail2:
 
Sure thing Shane.

I'm thinking it'll last a long time as long as I keep the 100 octane in the tank.

A friend of mine is running a stock rebuilt bottom with rpm package and 250 direct port also. No problems yet and he's using 91 octane.

Another local guy has a 331 with forged pistons and 250 shot runs 10's in a vert fox with 91 100 mix.
 
347
2900 lbs
Richmond 6 speed manual
3.50
338.9 rwhp, 335.5 rwtq [with out of the box carb, out of the box TF TW heads, and a wuss of a cam (.493 .510) - there's more in it, just don't have enough tire to use it]
Never even thought to check mileage

I've got over 20k miles (most of them hard) on this motor with no issues at all. No oil consumption, abnormal wear, etc.
 
gp001 said:
347
2900 lbs
Richmond 6 speed manual
3.50
338.9 rwhp, 335.5 rwtq [with out of the box carb, out of the box TF TW heads, and a wuss of a cam (.493 .510) - there's more in it, just don't have enough tire to use it]
Never even thought to check mileage

I've got over 20k miles (most of them hard) on this motor with no issues at all. No oil consumption, abnormal wear, etc.


Let me guess Elgin cam? From probe industries? CHP etc...?