Stroker motor build

Alright,

A friend of mine has an 01 mustang gt that just recently threw a rod. Mod's on the car when it blew up are as followed:

Comp stage 3 cams
BBK long tubes
75mm TB and plenum
JLT CAI
UPR O/R X pipe
Bassani Catback
4.10 gears
ZEX 150 wet shot
Heads are milled .0250 I believe (going off the previous owners word)

Well, he should be recieving his new 5.0 stroker motor in a few days, It consist of:

03/04 cobra cast block
Kellogg Forged crank
Eagle 4340 forged H beam rods
Probe forged pistons (9:3 compression on stock PI heads).

Before it goes together, it is getting an MMR high volume oil pump, Windage Tray, and MMR 7 qt oil pan. The pistons have been notched to clean the valves for the cams, so that's not an issue.

Is there anything else we should be looking into doing before we stab the motor back in? If the heads are milled that much, how much do you think it will raise the compression? Does this seem like a pretty decent combo? What are your guestimates on how much it will make with the 150 shot to the wheels?
 
So....let me get this straight. You guys are putting together a deep breathing stroker motor, but you're topping it off with stock (except for a slight milling) heads?

My advice would be for you to stop what you're doing and spend a little additional money on a decent top end to match the bottom end. You're essentially "corking" the top end with stock PI heads and intake. Otherwise, you've spend a lot of money on hop up and fortification parts you're never going to reap the benefit of because of it.
 
Yes, I completely agree with Gearbanger. The stroker motor will be a complete waste of money unless you add airflow to take advantage of the displacement. The total airflow is what determines your horsepower, and the restriction now is the head. You'll make basically the same power with a little more torque if you just increase the displacement.

Milling .025 will increase compression a bit. It is still well under 10:1. You should seriously calculate the compression ratio or have your builder calculate it. It isn't difficult to find the volume of the head, bore, stroke, gasket thickness and other specs to calculate it. If I had to make a WAG, I would say if the compression was 9.3:1, then milling .025 brought it to 9.6-9.7:1. You don't know until you calculate it though.

I would personally go more aggressive on the compression ratio though. With cams, you effectively reduce the dynamic compression ratio at low revs where the engine is most likely to knock. If I were building the engine, I would shoot for at least 11:1, and probably try to get closer to 12:1 for pump gas (with cams). Even my 22psi turbo engine has 10:1. ;)
 
I meant to put in that the heads have been worked over. I was in kind of a hurry typing this out.

I am trying to talk him into getting an aftermarket intake. I told him the same thing you guys are saying. That the new displacement really isnt going to make very much of a difference if the engine can't breathe. I was just wanting to make sure I wasnt overlooking another area in the build.
 
+ 3 on the heads it won't pull like it should in the upper RPM's with stock one on it . The cams will help though.

DON"T buy the MMR oil pump > go to ford and buy the 03/04 cobra oil pump> the
MMR pump will bit you in the a$$ down the road >

the oil pan is the same as I bought for my car :) and i'm mostly happy with it.
>BEWARE IF THE CAR IS LOWERED IT IS ONLY A FEW INCH'S OFF THE GROUND AND IS EASY TO HIT STUFF WITH IT !!!!!!!!!! DON'T BELIEVE ME E-MAIL ME AND i'LL SEND YOU SOME PIC'S THAT WILL MAKE YOU CRY.
ALSO THE PAN HOLDS MORE OIL THAN THEY SAY > MY MOTOR holds 9 and 1/2 QUARTS OF OIL WITH THERE PAN. so get ready for a very pricy oil change > I run full synthetic with a quart of LUCAS oil treatment > so it cost me around $80 to do a oil change.( oil and filter)