Stroker motors how long have they lasted

Who ever said anything biased? I AM sporting a 347, but the 331 is still more reliable. My combo is pushing 516 at the wheels with a stock block, cast crank, 347 stroker, and main support. Any roller block can handle 600 horses with a main support. How long it can handle that is unknown, but part of DSS is about the build quality. We all know we could build a 347 but I'd tend to say that DSS's kit would last longer. They balance and blueprint everything, all the parts are designed to work with each other, every thing is triple checked, its done very cleanly, and the guys building the engines have done hundreds of them. You can get a lot of reliability by doing right. But I stand by my word that a 331 or 306 is more reliable than a 347. You really need to ask yourself how much horsepower you want to make. Then you can decide which block you need. The dart block will serve on the street but the motorsport block I hear has a tendency to overheat due to smaller cooling passages.
 
Those guys have no hard feelings about splitting a stock block into 10 pieces, thats the great part about it. They do all their own work. Slap their H/C/I and tubo kit on the stock block, give it a good tune and 15 psi, and make LOW LOW 10 sec passes, and when it breaks, they do it all over agian, all for a few hundred dollars, the cost of a stock block.
 
sirsureshot39 said:
yes the R302 block is fine for street use, it cost 1700 new, and needs about 600-800$ in machining, but its bulletproof.


I'm new to block work so I know nothing. So if I buy the race dss block with all the internals I still have to pay some more money before slaping it on? What consist of "machining"?
 
Dss TW low comp 331 stroker kit
TFS TW heads ported
42lb injectors
Holley systemax upper and lower
AFM b-451 cam 576 lift hi-rev blower cam
Tuned by mustanhg magic, built by me

If you buy a motor( short or long block) w/ race block from DSS, it will ready to drop in once u receive it. But dont forget about balanceing and a flywheel, which is "extra"
 
They take the rotating assembly, crank, rods, and pistons. NO BLOCK. and assemble them on a balancing machine. The machine, literally spins the assembly up to a few thousand RPMs using the crank, and the machine tells you where its off balanced by how much wobble there is. SO bascially youve got pistons flying around in circles. Once then figure out with piston is causing the mis balance, they will shave off material to accomadate. Sometimes the crank needs to be drilled, and rods may need to be shaved as well. GET IT?
 
Which blocks are you talking about? They sell Dart blocks and then they have their own factory roller blocks that are either 10 or 20 level prepped. Both are ready to run and just need a rotating assembly. The Dart blocks I believe still need .030 bore for the 331 or 347 and a final hone. They may also need cam bearings and freeze plugs but their site doesnt say that stuff. Why dont you just call them. How much power are you planning on making to need a dart block?
 
The way I see it, if I can build a combo putting out ~500rwhp with my stock block I'll be happy with that for a while...Focus on beefing up my suspension & the rest of my car..get accustomed to handling that much power & then when the time is right I'll get a racing block & up my power output. I'm not rushing into anything..crawling before walking so to speak. Plus the more power you put out the more sh>t you're gonna break, especially if your whole system is not built to handle the power :nice:
 
I dont recommend 500 to the wheels with a stock block. Even DSS will tell you that. Your better off just getting a stronger block or not running as much power. Its lot easier to get the stuff to the ground too. If you want that kind of power but cant afford a race block then just get a 351 stroker. Those blocks will handle like 750-800 at the flywheel at least.
 
SmockDoiley said:
I dont recommend 500 to the wheels with a stock block. Even DSS will tell you that. Your better off just getting a stronger block or not running as much power. Its lot easier to get the stuff to the ground too. If you want that kind of power but cant afford a race block then just get a 351 stroker. Those blocks will handle like 750-800 at the flywheel at least.

How much HP does DSS claim their 331 stroker kit w/ main support system can handle on a stock block? My point was that once I'm ready to go over 500rwhp I would then get a racing block. I wouldn't go with a 351 coz I cant use my headers & intake.
 
331, 347, :nonono:


Why not a nice 392 or 408? Wanna talk about low end torque!? Plus if you're going to do it right, get a tubular K member and some aluminum heads and you've dropped down to less than a stock 302/K member car weighs, so the larger block makes no difference.