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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

strut bolts wont come loose

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmd2914
  • Start date Start date Mar 25, 2006
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 25, 2006
#1
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #1
i tried to start my spring strut/shock swap today but i cant get the strut bolts loose, any of them especially the two lower ones. any ideas? i can really use the help
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Mar 25, 2006
#2
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #2
A box end wrench on one side and a breaker on the other side is what I use. You shouldnt need the box end wrench till the fasteners are already broken loose.

Some PB might help.

Good luck.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 25, 2006
#3
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #3
hmm, i used pb. presprayed them last night and sprayed them again this morning. i used an impact gun but it was kinda crappy, what about one of those electric ones? would those work?
 
J

Jack's95gt

Member
Aug 15, 2004
443
1
18
Huntingdon Valley, PA
Mar 25, 2006
#4
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #4
I just changed my Struts today. The top rod nut I held that big washer thingie with large channel locks and the impact spun them right off. The lower two were a pain. The impact gun didn't do anything with them. This is what got them, a 13/16" box wrench holding the bolt head. 15/16" 1/2 drive socket, 18" breaker bar and 3' section on 1' black iron pipe over the breaker bar on the nuts. Then it's fun compressing the strut, then holding it compessed with one hand while you put in the bottom bolts.

The first side was like 1 1/2 hours and then twenty minutes for the other.
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Mar 25, 2006
#5
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #5
the lower retaining nuts are torqued at 140-200 ft lbs a box end wrench and a big breaker bar as suggested above. the upper retaining nuts are torqued at 40-55 ft. lbs. so they should not be as difficult to remove. and goodluck.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 25, 2006
#6
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #6
thanks guys, do i have to take my brake rotor off to get to that bottom bolt?
 
W

wazazzle

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
618
1
0
In the dumpster behind McDonalds. WA
Mar 25, 2006
#7
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #7
The easiest way is to remove the entire rotor and brake assembly, even the dust cover - remove that too. That way you can get to it and have enough room. If you're not lucky enuf to have an impact gun. Use your regular breaker bar, if you to poor for a breaker bar - like me a college student. Use a reg rachet and find a hollow pipe like from a fence post (any hollow pipe will do) place the pipe over the rachet and have yourself a big'ol breaker bar. Worked with no effort as I found out. Lube it up with wd40 first though. Sometimes it does help to tighten just a little to break rust up and then trying to remove it.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 25, 2006
#8
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #8
ok next dumb question, my car came with a five lug swap on it so how do i get the rotor and assembly off? i got the caliper and everything off but ive never taken my rotors off.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Mar 25, 2006
#9
  • Mar 25, 2006
  • #9
FWIW, you shouldnt need to remove the rotors. Last struts I did were with SN95 brakes and it was not an issue. Turning the wheel to one side of another does help though. I'm just trying to save you some work (esp something you are unfamiliar with).
I'm thinking you might not have turned the steering wheel to one side to help access the bolts.

Good luck.
 
J

jmd2914

Founding Member
Sep 6, 2002
937
0
0
Napa, California
Mar 26, 2006
#10
  • Mar 26, 2006
  • #10
heh, yeah i didnt think of doin that yet. thanks man
 
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