Strut Removal Question

[pdl2flr]

Have Steeda Sport Springs and a set of Tokico HP's on their way that I will be installing this weekend. I have read all the install articles but have one question I am not clear on. When removing the stock front struts to swap for the HP's, can I get by with just removing the large nut on top of the strut and not removing the three bolts on the strut tower plate? Some articles have you removing all the bolts and some just the top nut. If so I assume I can just slide the old strut out and slide the new one back into the strut tower? Any advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Indiana]

You just need to remove the top nut.

Do not forget to put a jack under the A-arm!

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Also, an impact wrench will make that top nut come off a lot easier. DO NOT REUSE the top nut.

 

[pdl2flr]

Also, an impact wrench will make that top nut come off a lot easier. DO NOT REUSE the top nut.

Never heard that before. Is there anything special about the nut or can I pick one up at the hardware store? Don't worry, I won't forget to place a jack under the A-arm... Thanks

 

[StangPro]

You can resuse the nut with no problems.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Haynes manual says don't do it. New strut should come with new nut.

 

[mity2]

Haynes manual says don't do it. New strut should come with new nut.

haynes manual also tell you how to fix dent in your car the Hillbilly way with alots of bondo...

 

[BMan5150]

How did you guys (or anyone else who installed tokicos) remove the top nut without having the piston turn? There is a slot on the top of the piston screw, but there's no way I can get the leverage I need and still hold the screwdriver. Any advice would be hugely appreciated! I'm smack in the middle of this install and I'm stuck at this point.

Only option I see is to remove the lower c/c plate along with the strut and put the piston in a vise and hope it holds. That piston has a pretty slick surface though, so I'm doubting it will.

Wonder how much a new lower stock c/c plate costs with bushings and bump stop! Might be worth the effort!

Is there a special strut nut tool that is designed for this job? God I hope so! HELP!!!!!

By the way, FWIW the lower strut nuts attaching the strut to the control arm are 21 and 25mm Can't use a deep socket either - needs to be standard socket size. 6 point would be best but 12 point worked for me.

 

[bdcardinal]

yes there is a special tool designed for such a thing. its called an impact gun with an impact socket. the bolts that hold the strut to the spinle are 13/16 on the bolt head, and 15/16 for the nut. the nut on top of the strut is one of those 2. what i do is use an impact gun on the bolt head, and a breaker bar on the nut to hold it in place. usually the nut will turn out instead of the bolt. just remember to have the jack under the a-arm to keep it from falling. the nut that holds the swap bar in is a 15mm and the castle nut on the tie rod end is a 18mm. i usually refrain from reusing the castle nuts, and i never reuse the cotter keys. o and dont reuse the top strut nut. the new ones should come with a new nut anyway.

EDIT, i used deep on both sides where the strut attaches to the spindle

 

[twogts4us]

haynes manual also tell you how to fix dent in your car the Hillbilly way with alots of bondo...

LOL - so true! Haynes is good, but I use it as a reference, not the bible.

 

[tomustang]

i need to start reading these manuals, so where's it say you need to remove all the plates bolts??

 

[twogts4us]

i need to start reading these manuals, so where's it say you need to remove all the plates bolts??

Haynes has it in chapter 10, page 3.
As far as the hillbilly bondo, that's chapter 11, pages 2-3.

 

[DropTopPony]

i need to start reading these manuals, so where's it say you need to remove all the plates bolts??

Haynes is a good read I actually take with me on vacation to read on the beach if i'm about to do an install when I get back. This vacation I brought the Sean Hyland Mod Motor book....didn't get far though...was too busy drinking mai tai's and talking to Hawaiian chicks

 

[BMan5150]

yes there is a special tool designed for such a thing. its called an impact gun with an impact socket. the bolts that hold the strut to the spinle are 13/16 on the bolt head, and 15/16 for the nut. the nut on top of the strut is one of those 2. what i do is use an impact gun on the bolt head, and a breaker bar on the nut to hold it in place. usually the nut will turn out instead of the bolt. just remember to have the jack under the a-arm to keep it from falling. the nut that holds the swap bar in is a 15mm and the castle nut on the tie rod end is a 18mm. i usually refrain from reusing the castle nuts, and i never reuse the cotter keys. o and dont reuse the top strut nut. the new ones should come with a new nut anyway.

EDIT, i used deep on both sides where the strut attaches to the spindle

Impact wrench seems like the answer, only I don't have one. I'll try my vice-to-piston tomorrow and if it doesn't work, I'll remove both struts and take them to a shop so they can take an impact wrench to them. Working on a car is like working on your house. You get halfway into the job only to find out it's going to require more work, time, effort, etc. Good times, good times. If I'd have know this I probably would have just got the cobra bilstiens which come with new lower cc plate and bushings/bumpstops.

 

[jstreet0204]

Mine had a groove in the bolt sticking throuhg the large nut. I just used a large flathead screw driver to hold it and turned the nut with an open end wrench.

 

[tomustang]

Haynes has it in chapter 10, page 3.
As far as the hillbilly bondo, that's chapter 11, pages 2-3.

Haynes is a good read I actually take with me on vacation to read on the beach if i'm about to do an install when I get back. This vacation I brought the Sean Hyland Mod Motor book....didn't get far though...was too busy drinking mai tai's and talking to Hawaiian chicks

4. From the engine compartment, remove the strut's central upper mount nut. Do not remove the three small retaining nuts around central nut, and NEVER remove the pop rivet holding the camber plate in position. Slide the large washer off of the strut shaft

5. Unscrew the three upper, mount-to-body bolt and nuts (see illustration)

I bought the chilton book first, cause it was bigger , did the first strut job by that book. later on i decided to buy the haynes for another reference.

Both books lack good/misled info. You can also notice they carry over pics form other jobs.
I got that SHM book, it's informative, actually I lost it because I carry it around alot. The S/C, T/C, and Nitro book is one I havent picked up and read yet, it sits here collecting dust, and I don't need to open it cause I can ask brian anyway

Mine had a groove in the bolt sticking throuhg the large nut. I just used a large flathead screw driver to hold it and turned the nut with an open end wrench.

One time I tried that and ended up turing the opening into something that looks like pac-man.