Strut Rods: Global West vs. Street or Track?

Snail50 · Jul 7, 2004

My car is handling great now compared to when I first started out. My next project is the strut rods. I've searched the archives and it seems like people are favoring these:

http://www.streetortrack.com/adjustable-strut-rods.asp

or

http://www.globalwest.net/mustang_1964 -73 catalog.htm#Adjustable strut rod kits

Is there any major differences in the GW units which justify the price difference? Anyone with personal experience with either unit (or any aftermarket strut rod) please give me your $.02. I definitely want some sort of joint where the rod connects to the frame, rather than the current bushing-style setup.

Thanks!

TT670 · Jul 7, 2004

Although I dont have either I too have been reasearching this pretty heavily, from what I can tell the Street or track rods are every bit as good as the global west and TCP rods, at a more reasonable cost.

Ronstang · Jul 7, 2004

They are both overpriced considering how easy this stuff is to make if you have access to the tools but if you can't make them then Street or Track's are the ones I would get because they are evrey bit as good and cheaper. Global West's pricing is getting outrageous anymore....$399 for lower control arms that are merely boxed with a spherical bushing!!!!!

Snail50 · Jul 7, 2004

Thanks for the replies. I could try to make them if I had the tools and the time, but I don't. Just trying to narrow it down to one product.

bnickel · Jul 7, 2004

both are good, but i would get the street or track units simply because one of the owners (billgear) is a respected member of this (and other) boards and long before he started street or track too

Snail50 · Jul 7, 2004

bnickel said:
both are good, but i would get the street or track units simply because one of the owners (billgear) is a respected member of this (and other) boards and long before he started street or track too

My main interest is how the two compare. For my driving skill level, I probably wouldn't notice a difference. I guess I'm most concerned about which one will last the longest.

And I'd definitely rather buy from people who have a true interest in the sport, rather than from those who just "sell stuff."

HistoricMustang · Jul 7, 2004

Use the money elsewhere. Mine have been around since 1965 and they still do a great job.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

Hack · Jul 7, 2004

HistoricMustang said:
Use the money elsewhere. Mine have been around since 1965 and they still do a great job.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

I agree. Unless you're having problems or a specific improvement in mind, why not spend it elsewhere?

edit: perhaps buy some tools so you can eventually make your own, as Ronstang suggested. Just think of the bragging rights!

Route666 · Jul 7, 2004

I think the rod-end strut rods are what should have been in the suspension originally. The part is meant to swivel with suspension travel, and to me, something that swivels should be on a joint, not be bending a rubber bushing.

I'd go for the Street or Track ones too, they look better. The Globals appear to move only in a single plane, which would require aligning that plane perfectly, but it would never be perfect as the plane of movement changes as the suspension moves. The SoT ones look like they allow movement in every direction except back and forth through the rod, an ideal setup in my eyes; perfect freedom in every dimension you want, and absolutely no freedom where you don't want it.

Also, the pics (and website) global west has leave a lot to be desired. It doesn't give off a very good professional image, bad pictures, gawdy colours used here and there on the main page, it all adds up. I look at the SoT site, and they have a simple, easy-to-read layout, with BIG, CLEAR pictures, that inspires more confidence in the company and their product.

Just my opinions though

bnickel · Jul 7, 2004

Use the money elsewhere. Mine have been around since 1965 and they still do a great job

who asked you? the question was which ones to buy not should i buy these or stick with the stock ones. we all know your outdated theories on how mostly stock is just fine and how you race on it all the time, but i can tell you from personal experience that stock upper control arms and stock strut rods will fail, having had both on me while driving on the street. so, historicmustang all i have to say to you is shut-up and butt out of conversions not specifically asking what the best "stock" 30 year old combo for a vintage stang is. when it comes to keeping the car mostly stock you have some valid opinions, but not on the more modern stuff.

Route666 · Jul 7, 2004

Now now, be nice, he was just offering an alternative he beleives to be just as good, and cost an infinite amount less money.

bnickel · Jul 7, 2004

Now now, be nice, he was just offering an alternative he beleives to be just as good, and cost an infinite amount less money

have you read any of his previous posts? he is always cramming his "theories" down peoples throats whether or not they ask for his opinion. if someone asks his opinion because they want to keep the car legal for a certain class or whatever, that's cool. but when the originator of the thread clearly states in the original post "I definitely want some sort of joint where the rod connects to the frame, rather than the current bushing-style setup" then what he is doing is just not acceptable to me and many others on this board, no offense to you route66 and if i do offend you i apologize i really don't mean too.

65straightsick · Jul 7, 2004

Wow

Now that all of that is under control...Street or track seems like the better buy for many reasons like the ones Route666 mentioned...

But it is your choice and money... Good luck

Opentracker · Jul 7, 2004

If you..all ever get tired of me putting in my $.02 please let me know. What some of you fail to see is that HistoricMustang can out drive most other folks with what Ford gave us. If he can do it so can you. It doesn't cost much to fix up these cars for track duty. A good driving school makes a nice Christmas present and will do more to improve your lap times than any part you buy.

Now, the strutt rod mod I am doing uses cheap stock car parts from AFCO.

Photo 1 Is the top.

Photo 2 More of the top.

Photo 3 The bottom. This arm is getting a screw in ball joint and full length brace . And those are Street or Track strutts on this car. They make a damn nice set of strutt rods. I got them as a gift before I got done with the AFCO strutts, they look a lot better than the AFCO stuff.

You can check out theAFCO photo here and the web page here . You do have to drill holes in the strutt rod support to do this mod. Cobra Automotive strutt rods mount this way. If you don't want to drill holes in your car. I've waisted your time.

John

Ronstang · Jul 7, 2004

You never waste anyone's time John. We all appreciate your experience, knowledge, and willingness to provide input on good solid affordable mods. If I decide to do the strut rod thing I will be doing something similar to you but I have a full machine shop and unlimited materials at my disposal (friends are GREAT) so I will play around a little and see what happens. Thanks as always.

2bav8 · Jul 8, 2004

bnickel,

Let's not get to hasty in our responses.
I'd really don't want to put somebody in time-out for being rude.

And on a lighter note, this is a great thread as I enjoy suspension discussions.
I'm always looking for ideas to further improve the handling of my 38 year old vechicle.

Psydwaze · Jul 8, 2004

I'll throw my 2 cents in.

Most of the options presented will be a great improvement over a stock bushing mounted strut rod. They should all perform equally well aside from longevity.

The rod ends packaged with the Afco option appear to be a cheaper "economy" rod end. They will handle the loads presented to them but are better suited for the weekend circle track racer not a double duty street vehicle or daily driver. These rod ends will become very noisy as they start to wear. The higher quality rod ends with the lined/impregnated/injection molded (whatever) bearing races will last a lot longer and don't make nearly the amount of clattering noises when they start to develop play.

I have a criticism of some of the billet mounts that are available. They appear to have somewhat sharp ID corners (for lack of a better term) machined along the mounting tabs for the rod end. These sharp corners could be a fatique point and would potentially fail before a radiused corner would. I'm not saying its going to break but its something I would consider if I were making a purchase.

For whoever posted the pictures of the strut rod mounted with a single bolt between the OEM drilled holes in a stock lower arm. PLEASE USE A DIFFERENT DESIGN. I would not trust the safety of myself, my passengers or anyone else in my path to a 1/2 inch bolt mounted in single shear. I highly suggest finding an alternate set of components or better mounting method.

Edited to rephrase something.

Ronstang · Jul 8, 2004

Psydwaze said:
I'll throw my 2 cents in.

I have a criticism of some of the billet mounts that are available. They appear to have somewhat sharp ID corners (for lack of a better term) machined along the mounting tabs for the rod end. These sharp corners could be a fatique point and would potentially fail before a radiused corner would. I'm not saying its going to break but its something I would consider if I were making a purchase.

For whoever posted the pictures of the strut rod mounted with a single bolt between the OEM drilled holes in a stock lower arm. PLEASE USE A DIFFERENT DESIGN. I would not trust the safety of myself, my passengers or anyone else in my path to a 7/16 or 1/2 inch bolt mounted in single shear. I highly suggest finding an alternate set of components or better mounting method.

Your observation about the sharp machined inside radii on the front mount caught my attention when I first saw these a while back. I had the same thought and they definitely are a stress riser and this is one of the reasons that I will make my own.

Read John's post again. He states that when using the AFCO strut you will have to drill a second hole in the strut rod where it mounts to the LCA. His pic is obviously of a mock up as John does first class affordable mods. He always keeps safety in mind.....his wife drives one of those cars at the track!!

Psydwaze · Jul 8, 2004

Ronstang said:
...his wife drives one of those cars at the track!!

Is there a substantial insurance policy involved?

Ronstang · Jul 8, 2004

Psydwaze said:
Is there a substantial insurance policy involved?

I knew you were going to respond with something like that.....hahahah....but I am serious.

Strut Rods: Global West vs. Street or Track?

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