Strut/Shock Install Question
- Thread starter crunchie12268
- Start date
Once the car is jacked up and the wheels are off, make sure you put a floor jack under the A-arm. Take the lower two bolts off the front strut. The top nut is hard to get off and will most likely need an impact gun. The strut should now be free and remove it from the car. Take the dust shield off the old strut and put it on the new one. Install the strut the opposite way you took it out. Once the car is on the ground, hit the top strut bolt with an impact gun. The rears are easy, take out the trunk lining so you can unbolt the top nuts. I use an air ratchet, it makes life easier. Once the top nut is off unbolt the bottom bolt and the shocks should fall out. Put the dust shields on the new shocks, and bolt in the new shocks.
- Jul 17, 2001
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Do not use an impact gun, or air ratchet on the new top strut nut.
Bad move there, I just installed my KYB GR-2 Struts up fron today, and the instructions read that you are NOT to use an impact gun as this will weaken the threads on the actual strut.
Use a wrench, and screwdriver instead, and torque down the supplied NEW top nut with a torque wrench to 50-75 Ft-lbs.
The spindle bolts should be torqued down: 140-200 Ft. Lbs. (1986 and later)
You WILL need an impact gun for the bottome two Spindle bolts. Use some pB blaster and those hard to get off things might budge.
Be careful not to bend the dust shield.
RED92VERT said:
Bad move there, I just installed my KYB GR-2 Struts up fron today, and the instructions read that you are NOT to use an impact gun as this will weaken the threads on the actual strut.
Use a wrench, and screwdriver instead, and torque down the supplied NEW top nut with a torque wrench to 50-75 Ft-lbs.
The spindle bolts should be torqued down: 140-200 Ft. Lbs. (1986 and later)
You WILL need an impact gun for the bottome two Spindle bolts. Use some pB blaster and those hard to get off things might budge.
Be careful not to bend the dust shield.
There are great tech articles here, just look around for them. I did it with hand tools and a 4ft breaker bar on the lower strut bolts. I didnt need that, just had room and didnt feel like cutting the pipe I have laying around. I used a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the pipe with a proper fitting 6 point socket. Its metric and large IIRC.
I got the top nut off the strut with vise grips and a six point end wrench. Took the clamp off the top and pulled the dust shield down and clamped on the shaft. Turn the top nut till the vise grips hit something solid and tap the wrench with a 3lb hammer. Comes right off. I still dont have a compressor, but I take stuff apart just fine.
I got the top nut off the strut with vise grips and a six point end wrench. Took the clamp off the top and pulled the dust shield down and clamped on the shaft. Turn the top nut till the vise grips hit something solid and tap the wrench with a 3lb hammer. Comes right off. I still dont have a compressor, but I take stuff apart just fine.
90_Red_LX
Member
Henceforward said:
Why would you care about using a impact gun on REMOVING the stock, worn our strut? We had to use an impact gun to get ours off. Just done them last night, man what a difference.
Thanks for the torque advice though, we weren't sure what to torque them to, so we just tightened em up pretty good. Will torque them asap tommorow.
EDIT: Also, listen to the guy that said keep the jack under the a-arm. Put the front on stands, and use the jack to barely lift it up. The spring isnt on the strut itself, but drop that strut, the arm will drop, and that spring will come on out. FAST. Good luck! Shocks are easy, just take the covers out in the trunk, dig through insulation to find a hole in it, and theres one bolt and nut on bottom, and a nut on top.
mustangjoe87
Member
i do believe the bolt is a 21mm and the nut is a 24mm i also used a breaker bar to crack them loose.
- Jul 17, 2001
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90_Red_LX said:
I was only refering to what was said before me...
RED92VERT said:
He said install the strut, then hit it with the gun. I read on the instructions that came in the KYB box, that you are not to do that.
Of course you can use a gun to take them off, makes it easier, I also removed mine with an air gun.
Okay, I did the job today and only got the rear shocks on. I started out with the bottom two bolts... finally got those off with brute force. Then I moved to the top and tried to take it off and it spinned.... damn, I completley forgot. I have no idea how to get that damn thing off, so I bolted it back up and moved to the back. I got the shocks on but tried to get the Quadra shock off and I could only get the top one off, but the bottom one (on the rear end) wouldn't come off. Please... can someone tell me how in the hell I get that nut off the spindle top?
Jerry Beach... can you please explain to me in more detail how you did it with no impact gun?
Jerry Beach... can you please explain to me in more detail how you did it with no impact gun?
Its spinning because you aren't turning it fast enough. You aren't using an impact? If not, try using a pair of vise grips to hold the strut shaft in place (gonna have to mangle the boot/dust cover a bit to get to it) Otherwise, if you are using an impact, it should spin off unless your compressor is a smaller one.
I gave good details, reread the post. Go here, www.maximummotorsports.com then go to installation instructions over to the left. Click on strut install for your car. I am pretty sure they tell you to take the top nut off first. They tell you not to clamp anything on the strut shaft cause it will damage it. I didnt care cause mine were totally shot. You could use a pipe wrench on there too, but vice grips did the job fine for me. There is no need to mangle the dust shield either. Take some pliers and break the plastic clamp at the top and it will pull down easily. You must have skipped the tap wrench with 3lb hammer part. That works wonders. 
one could also try to use an impact driver on the top strut flat-head fitting, while holding the nut with a box end wrench (kinda requires a helper, unless you grew up in the circus and have 3 hands). the impact driver (a screwdriver with a bullet body which can be hammered) will provide enough force to break the connection apart or strip/break the flat-head fitting on the strut.
if you live in an area that sees lots of road salt and rust, this might not work too hot. if the climate is arid, it might work.
Jerry is right - IIRC the top of the strut should come lose first. having the strut loaded with weight helps to put tension on the strut's strut, which can help a little with getting the top nut off.
good luck.
if you live in an area that sees lots of road salt and rust, this might not work too hot. if the climate is arid, it might work.
Jerry is right - IIRC the top of the strut should come lose first. having the strut loaded with weight helps to put tension on the strut's strut, which can help a little with getting the top nut off.
good luck.
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crunchie12268 said:
I finished my install the other day, Gas-A_Just rear, and GR-2 front, and the ride is some what smoother, but I am waiting to make my final judgements after I get the MM subframes welded on. I think I will go over to the shop this week.
Those two bottom bolts can be mighty tough to get loose. Especially if the previous owners NEVER replaced the factory struts/shocks. No wonder the ride was so crappy.
90_Red_LX
Member
Henceforward said:
I just put the same exact setup on mine. Made a huge difference to me, still rides rough, but doesn't bounce you out of your seat. Does subframes really improve the ride? I figured it would go the other way, even though I know I need them if I make any more power.
