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Stuck Passenger Lock, Removing Door Cover

  • Thread starter Thread starter ajaffer
  • Start date Start date Dec 14, 2005
A

ajaffer

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#1
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I Followed this link to fix the door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang...r_actuator.htm, but once i got the arm rest off and was trying to take the door cover off, it was not budging. Could anyone whose done this before give me an idea of where the 6 plastic holders are that i have to remove while taking off the cover, I want to make sure i dont break them off. Thanks.
 

jrichker

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There are 2 bolts that hold the armrest on and one screw at the rear of it. There is one screw on the plastic trim up near the door mounted rear view mirror. There is one screw in the door handle cover trim. There maybe one screw in the lower part of the door near the speaker. The plastic push fasteners are all along the bottom of the door. Once the armrest is off & the rest of the screws are removed, it is a pull and tug operation.

Slide you hand in at the bottom of the door and pull out. Once the plastic push fasteners are all loose, lift up on the bottom of the door panel and it will slide up and away from the window glass. Feed the wires through the holes and you are clear.

The plastic push fasteners look something like this:
 

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srothfuss

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Oct 17, 2004
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Dec 14, 2005
#3
  • Dec 14, 2005
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Sometimes it also helps to have a friend hold the door while you pull on the panel to get it loose on the bottom.
 

Busted07

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Nov 15, 2005
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srothfuss said:
Sometimes it also helps to have a friend hold the door while you pull on the panel to get it loose on the bottom.
Click to expand...

or you could do it yourself, and not realize its loose, pull up on the panel and whack yourself in the head..... dont ask, i had been drinking that day.
 
A

ajaffer

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jrichker said:
Slide you hand in at the bottom of the door and pull out. Once the plastic push fasteners are all loose, lift up on the bottom of the door panel and it will slide up and away from the window glass. Feed the wires through the holes and you are clear.
Click to expand...

I tried it out on the driver side door and felt them become loose, but since my passenger door lock is the one that is jammed, i feel like its impossible to slide my hand in at the bottom of the door without opening it. What do i do to release the plastic bolts on the bottom since the door will not open?
 
A

ajaffer

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  • Dec 14, 2005
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ajaffer said:
I tried it out on the driver side door and felt them become loose, but since my passenger door lock is the one that is jammed, i feel like its impossible to slide my hand in at the bottom of the door without opening it. What do i do to release the plastic bolts on the bottom since the door will not open?
Click to expand...

Got it guys, thanks, you need to pull it out like a man.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
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Dec 14, 2005
#7
  • Dec 14, 2005
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that happened to me once too. After that time, I changed the actuators almost at the first sign of problems. Thank goodness the panel will still clear with the door closed.
 
A

ajaffer

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Where is the actuator, all i see is the power window plugged in, im looking in my passeger door, with the cover removed
 

glowstang93

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#9
  • Dec 14, 2005
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http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/download/instructions/LRS-21842.pdf

Here is a picture of what it looks like, plus the clips, rivits, etc from LRS. I usually drill mine out, drive to a local body shop, hold it in place and they rivit it. They usually only charge $2-$5 and it looks more like factory then using a bolt/nut (plus its easier).
View attachment 494671

Getting the actuator out will be a little tricky. Try to push the actuator down so that it gets out of the plastic holder. Then you can push it to the front of the car and wiggle the rod end out of its holder. Pay close attention where the rod end came out from, because you will have to put the new one there. The rod end is just inserted through a hole, so all you have to do is work with it to get it out. Then you will be able to manually unlock the door and get some room to work finally. Hope this helps. Once you have done a few it seems so easy, but your first is a little hard to figure out.
 

rd

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Dec 14, 2005
#10
  • Dec 14, 2005
  • #10
You should be able to open the door via the inside handle.

If it is really stuck, best I can figure is remove the pass seat and the inner door panel.

The inner door panel comes off by taking the bolts and screws out, pulling the push in plastic fasteners out, and then lifting up. It has a u turn section at the top that fits over the top of the door.

My 89 drivers door got jammed last week because the panel is up slightly, and the lock manual release handle got stuck below the hole in the top of the door panel, and could not move up to let the door open.

I had to fix it twice, the second time by putting a longer extension on in place of the black plastic handle.

You might look at that first. You can fish it back to the hole and fix it.
 
A

ajaffer

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#11
  • Dec 17, 2005
  • #11
You are the man, that is the best write up ive seen for the actuator. Very detailed and easy to understand, good pics, the whole deal, good ****.


glowstang93 said:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/download/instructions/LRS-21842.pdf

Here is a picture of what it looks like, plus the clips, rivits, etc from LRS. I usually drill mine out, drive to a local body shop, hold it in place and they rivit it. They usually only charge $2-$5 and it looks more like factory then using a bolt/nut (plus its easier).
View attachment 494461

Getting the actuator out will be a little tricky. Try to push the actuator down so that it gets out of the plastic holder. Then you can push it to the front of the car and wiggle the rod end out of its holder. Pay close attention where the rod end came out from, because you will have to put the new one there. The rod end is just inserted through a hole, so all you have to do is work with it to get it out. Then you will be able to manually unlock the door and get some room to work finally. Hope this helps. Once you have done a few it seems so easy, but your first is a little hard to figure out.
Click to expand...
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
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Dec 17, 2005
#12
  • Dec 17, 2005
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So did you get it out and fixed? I think that my local O'Reilly's even carries the actuator in the motormite (help) product line on the shelf.
Thats where I got my last one for about $65. I have tried the ones from 50resto before too. They are cheaper, but I didn't want to wait. Once you get your first one changed, it will be a piece of cake the next time.:SNSign:
 
A

ajaffer

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Dec 27, 2005
#13
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #13
Yup, got manual locks on the passenger side, appreciate it

glowstang93 said:
So did you get it out and fixed? I think that my local O'Reilly's even carries the actuator in the motormite (help) product line on the shelf.
Thats where I got my last one for about $65. I have tried the ones from 50resto before too. They are cheaper, but I didn't want to wait. Once you get your first one changed, it will be a piece of cake the next time.:SNSign:
Click to expand...
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
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Illinois
Dec 27, 2005
#14
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #14
:SNSign:

ANYTIME
 

jrichker

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#15
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #15
glowstang93 said:
So did you get it out and fixed? I think that my local O'Reilly's even carries the actuator in the motormite (help) product line on the shelf.
Thats where I got my last one for about $65. I have tried the ones from 50resto before too. They are cheaper, but I didn't want to wait. Once you get your first one changed, it will be a piece of cake the next time.:SNSign:
Click to expand...
Would a cost savings of $48 influence you to do it differently? My way saves some major $$$. Do both sides and it is only $23! Instead of spending $130, I can get the same results by spending $23 - That sounds like a good idea to me.

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $4. Fix one side for $17, do both sides for only $23. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

 

bubba-dough

Active Member
Dec 28, 2004
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Indiana
Dec 27, 2005
#16
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #16
I did mine the same way jrichker is saying. I got the actuators from www.partsexpress.com the only difference is I mounted mine differently and I also installed keyless entry while I was in there. They have been in there for 3 years now.
 
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