I Followed this link to fix the door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang...r_actuator.htm, but once i got the arm rest off and was trying to take the door cover off, it was not budging. Could anyone whose done this before give me an idea of where the 6 plastic holders are that i have to remove while taking off the cover, I want to make sure i dont break them off. Thanks.
Stuck Passenger Lock, Removing Door Cover
- Thread starter ajaffer
- Start date
There are 2 bolts that hold the armrest on and one screw at the rear of it. There is one screw on the plastic trim up near the door mounted rear view mirror. There is one screw in the door handle cover trim. There maybe one screw in the lower part of the door near the speaker. The plastic push fasteners are all along the bottom of the door. Once the armrest is off & the rest of the screws are removed, it is a pull and tug operation.
Slide you hand in at the bottom of the door and pull out. Once the plastic push fasteners are all loose, lift up on the bottom of the door panel and it will slide up and away from the window glass. Feed the wires through the holes and you are clear.
The plastic push fasteners look something like this:
Slide you hand in at the bottom of the door and pull out. Once the plastic push fasteners are all loose, lift up on the bottom of the door panel and it will slide up and away from the window glass. Feed the wires through the holes and you are clear.
The plastic push fasteners look something like this:
Attachments
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Sometimes it also helps to have a friend hold the door while you pull on the panel to get it loose on the bottom.
jrichker said:
I tried it out on the driver side door and felt them become loose, but since my passenger door lock is the one that is jammed, i feel like its impossible to slide my hand in at the bottom of the door without opening it. What do i do to release the plastic bolts on the bottom since the door will not open?
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter 
that happened to me once too. After that time, I changed the actuators almost at the first sign of problems. Thank goodness the panel will still clear with the door closed.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/download/instructions/LRS-21842.pdf
Here is a picture of what it looks like, plus the clips, rivits, etc from LRS. I usually drill mine out, drive to a local body shop, hold it in place and they rivit it. They usually only charge $2-$5 and it looks more like factory then using a bolt/nut (plus its easier).
View attachment 494671
Getting the actuator out will be a little tricky. Try to push the actuator down so that it gets out of the plastic holder. Then you can push it to the front of the car and wiggle the rod end out of its holder. Pay close attention where the rod end came out from, because you will have to put the new one there. The rod end is just inserted through a hole, so all you have to do is work with it to get it out. Then you will be able to manually unlock the door and get some room to work finally. Hope this helps. Once you have done a few it seems so easy, but your first is a little hard to figure out.
Here is a picture of what it looks like, plus the clips, rivits, etc from LRS. I usually drill mine out, drive to a local body shop, hold it in place and they rivit it. They usually only charge $2-$5 and it looks more like factory then using a bolt/nut (plus its easier).
View attachment 494671
Getting the actuator out will be a little tricky. Try to push the actuator down so that it gets out of the plastic holder. Then you can push it to the front of the car and wiggle the rod end out of its holder. Pay close attention where the rod end came out from, because you will have to put the new one there. The rod end is just inserted through a hole, so all you have to do is work with it to get it out. Then you will be able to manually unlock the door and get some room to work finally. Hope this helps. Once you have done a few it seems so easy, but your first is a little hard to figure out.
rd
Founding Member
You should be able to open the door via the inside handle.
If it is really stuck, best I can figure is remove the pass seat and the inner door panel.
The inner door panel comes off by taking the bolts and screws out, pulling the push in plastic fasteners out, and then lifting up. It has a u turn section at the top that fits over the top of the door.
My 89 drivers door got jammed last week because the panel is up slightly, and the lock manual release handle got stuck below the hole in the top of the door panel, and could not move up to let the door open.
I had to fix it twice, the second time by putting a longer extension on in place of the black plastic handle.
You might look at that first. You can fish it back to the hole and fix it.
If it is really stuck, best I can figure is remove the pass seat and the inner door panel.
The inner door panel comes off by taking the bolts and screws out, pulling the push in plastic fasteners out, and then lifting up. It has a u turn section at the top that fits over the top of the door.
My 89 drivers door got jammed last week because the panel is up slightly, and the lock manual release handle got stuck below the hole in the top of the door panel, and could not move up to let the door open.
I had to fix it twice, the second time by putting a longer extension on in place of the black plastic handle.
You might look at that first. You can fish it back to the hole and fix it.
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
So did you get it out and fixed? I think that my local O'Reilly's even carries the actuator in the motormite (help) product line on the shelf.
Thats where I got my last one for about $65. I have tried the ones from 50resto before too. They are cheaper, but I didn't want to wait. Once you get your first one changed, it will be a piece of cake the next time.:SNSign:
Thats where I got my last one for about $65. I have tried the ones from 50resto before too. They are cheaper, but I didn't want to wait. Once you get your first one changed, it will be a piece of cake the next time.:SNSign:
glowstang93
20+ Year Stangneter
Would a cost savings of $48 influence you to do it differently? My way saves some major $$$. Do both sides and it is only $23! Instead of spending $130, I can get the same results by spending $23 - That sounds like a good idea to me.glowstang93 said:
Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://jrichker.stangnet.com/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm
Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?
A new actuator for less than $4. Fix one side for $17, do both sides for only $23. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.
bubba-dough
Active Member
I did mine the same way jrichker is saying. I got the actuators from www.partsexpress.com the only difference is I mounted mine differently and I also installed keyless entry while I was in there. They have been in there for 3 years now.
Similar threads
