Subframe connectors......its time,take the poll!!!!!

Which subframe connectors?????????

  • Maier racing

    Votes: 7 14.3%
  • TCP (just connectors)

    Votes: 13 26.5%
  • TCP (full X cage)

    Votes: 18 36.7%
  • Other (please list below)

    Votes: 10 20.4%
  • None, they are all junk

    Votes: 1 2.0%

  • Total voters
    49
I like the fact that Maier's design has multiple mount locations rather than two (one fore, and one aft). The rear mount location also wraps deeper into the rear sub structure of the car than the other designs. This seriousley improves the rigity of the frame to prevent twisting (negating the need for any X type cross members). Besides adding weight, I don't see the advantage to TCPs bolt on X type cross member.
 
mustang70 said:
I think I'm just going to make my own. There really isn't much to them. And if you have a good welder they shouldn't be hard to put in.
I paid a muffler shop $40 to put mine in. IMO it would be a real pain to weld them with the car's tires on a level surface. I don't have a good way to do it, anyway.
 
I agree with 66p51gt. IMO The maier one is superior "connector to connector."

The x brace is good for running the torque arm. However, I think a roll bar would benefit the chassis more than the x brace.

I may be sounding like a hypocrit since I am running the TCP 1 & 2 on my car with a torque arm.
 
for my car the cheapest boxed connectors i can find will do. however if you get the cheapest ones they generally have an option for bolt-in or weld-in, get the bolt-in units and just weld them in. the weld-in style require relocation of the leaf spring mounts and are for tubbed cars. the cheapest i have found are from american pony/canadian mustang and i think they run about 60 bucks. i'm pretty sure all of the cheap units are either competition engineering or a knockoff of their design. i had a buddy that bought the 69 mustang coupe that was in hot rod mag several years ago when they first started the "fastest street car" shootout competition, i think it placed 9th or 10th in the 10 car field and it had the comp engineering connectors on it. after he bought the car we were doing some work on the ladder bar suspension and jacked the left rear of the car up enough that the left front and right rear were off the ground. the car did have a 4 point bar that probably contributed to the right rear coming off the ground but the left front was all from the subs :nice:
 
Global West tubulars. I went with GW connectors and they've been the single best chasis mod I've made. They fit perfectly and were priced reasonably. I paid $145 shipped (holiday special), which was cheaper than TCP, and I didn't care about the damn x-brace crap. I personally don't think much of that x-brace deal... I think a roll bar would be equally (or more) effective and has the added benefit of being rollover protection. I think the TCP connectors are fine otherwise.
 
I have the Gee Dubs

Sub-frames, part number 911, and the jacking rails, 924.

I got them as part of the Stage 5 kit. I originally was going to pass on the GW subframes and go with TCP X set up only so I could install the TCP torque arm. However, Doug at GW talked me out of it. The one benefit I can see for the X is that if your drive shaft breaks, the TCP subframes will keep it from hitting the road and then shooting back up into your car like a spear in search of soft tissue.
 
I just had Global West connectors put in my 'vert. They seem to be well made, they took some light taps with a soft mallet to go into place. They fit tight enough to stay in place without being clamped.
 
I have the TCP "X" installed. Maybe because I like to AutoX??

Seriously though... just about any connection from the front to rear will help improve the car. I put sub connectors on my 87' and noticed it right away also. As far as whether the cross (X) section is needed... it's my opinion that it depends on what you're doing with the car. Does it help for stuff like autocross or road racing? I'd think it would. But really how can any of us normal people know this for sure? I'm just assuming it does. It looks cool too.
 
I have GW tubulars. I haven't been able to put the twist on the car yet because
a) it's gutless
b) all these f'in hurricanes
c) more suspension bugs to work out

they seem like very good units, with a decent amount of welding area for the front & rear subframes.