Subframe connectors......its time,take the poll!!!!!

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streetgrande69

Founding Member

Nov 2, 2002

976

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16

Splendora, Tx

Sep 14, 2004

#1

• Sep 14, 2004

• #1

I really like the tubular types. I know maier makes a set, TCP, and who else?

Please post prices if you have suggestions, and an advantage to your if there is one.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

Founding Member

Apr 8, 2001

2,458

1

56

North Atlanta

Sep 14, 2004

#2

• Sep 14, 2004

• #2

I bought a set from summit, the box kind, bolt/weld in. They were $89 with shipping.

 

dodgestang

Active Member

Dec 15, 2003

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37

Cecil County, MD

Sep 14, 2004

#3

• Sep 14, 2004

• #3

Need more info...like how much RWHP.

TCP stage 1 is fine for 90% of uses.

Full x is overkill unless you are racing IMO.

 

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streetgrande69

Founding Member

Nov 2, 2002

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16

Splendora, Tx

Sep 14, 2004

#4

• Sep 14, 2004

• #4

intended driving is hard on the street day in day out, so, its not the acute abuse of the track, more spread out. this is my daily driver. it one has a stock 351w with mild bolt-ons. so 300 max rwhp, if that.

 

LMan

Founding Member

Aug 10, 2002

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Mom's basement

Sep 14, 2004

#5

• Sep 14, 2004

• #5

Competition Engineering.

 

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TruckeeFastback

New Member

Jun 28, 2004

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Lake Tahoe, CA

Sep 14, 2004

#6

• Sep 14, 2004

• #6

I went with the TCP "Full X" out of pure ignorance. I just ordered it the other day and it has not delivered yet. So, I have no problems to report.

 

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ssppiitt

New Member

Apr 8, 2003

206

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0

Mountain View, Ca.

Sep 14, 2004

#7

• Sep 14, 2004

• #7

There are a lot of different options out there. Global West is a nother big name and makes a greta subframe connector. I think I like the TCP X design the best though.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

2,445

2

48

San Diego

Sep 14, 2004

#8

• Sep 14, 2004

• #8

I think I'm just going to make my own. There really isn't much to them. And if you have a good welder they shouldn't be hard to put in.

 

66P51GT

New Member

Nov 7, 2003

721

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Cerritos, CA

Sep 14, 2004

#9

• Sep 14, 2004

• #9

I like the fact that Maier's design has multiple mount locations rather than two (one fore, and one aft). The rear mount location also wraps deeper into the rear sub structure of the car than the other designs. This seriousley improves the rigity of the frame to prevent twisting (negating the need for any X type cross members). Besides adding weight, I don't see the advantage to TCPs bolt on X type cross member.

 

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66candy

New Member

Nov 3, 2003

17

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The Netherlands

Sep 14, 2004

#10

• Sep 14, 2004

• #10

mustang70 said:

I think I'm just going to make my own. There really isn't much to them. And if you have a good welder they shouldn't be hard to put in.

Click to expand...

Maybe this article can help you!

Erwin, The Netherlands

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

1,945

13

69

Minneapolis

Sep 14, 2004

#11

• Sep 14, 2004

• #11

mustang70 said:

I think I'm just going to make my own. There really isn't much to them. And if you have a good welder they shouldn't be hard to put in.

Click to expand...

I paid a muffler shop $40 to put mine in. IMO it would be a real pain to weld them with the car's tires on a level surface. I don't have a good way to do it, anyway.

 

mdjay

Premium Sponsor

Dec 9, 2003

896

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16

Las Vegas, NV

Sep 14, 2004

#12

• Sep 14, 2004

• #12

I agree with 66p51gt. IMO The maier one is superior "connector to connector."

The x brace is good for running the torque arm. However, I think a roll bar would benefit the chassis more than the x brace.

I may be sounding like a hypocrit since I am running the TCP 1 & 2 on my car with a torque arm.

 

mustang70

Founding Member

Nov 15, 2001

2,445

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48

San Diego

Sep 14, 2004

#13

• Sep 14, 2004

• #13

Thanks 66candy. That's a good article.

 

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slackr

New Member

Feb 10, 2004

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Denver

Sep 14, 2004

#14

• Sep 14, 2004

• #14

I like Maier's, 66P51GT already said why.

 

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bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

5,640

3

77

lubbock, texas

Sep 14, 2004

#15

• Sep 14, 2004

• #15

for my car the cheapest boxed connectors i can find will do. however if you get the cheapest ones they generally have an option for bolt-in or weld-in, get the bolt-in units and just weld them in. the weld-in style require relocation of the leaf spring mounts and are for tubbed cars. the cheapest i have found are from american pony/canadian mustang and i think they run about 60 bucks. i'm pretty sure all of the cheap units are either competition engineering or a knockoff of their design. i had a buddy that bought the 69 mustang coupe that was in hot rod mag several years ago when they first started the "fastest street car" shootout competition, i think it placed 9th or 10th in the 10 car field and it had the comp engineering connectors on it. after he bought the car we were doing some work on the ladder bar suspension and jacked the left rear of the car up enough that the left front and right rear were off the ground. the car did have a 4 point bar that probably contributed to the right rear coming off the ground but the left front was all from the subs

 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

2,215

1

47

Seattle & Tampa

Sep 15, 2004

#16

• Sep 15, 2004

• #16

Global West tubulars. I went with GW connectors and they've been the single best chasis mod I've made. They fit perfectly and were priced reasonably. I paid $145 shipped (holiday special), which was cheaper than TCP, and I didn't care about the damn x-brace crap. I personally don't think much of that x-brace deal... I think a roll bar would be equally (or more) effective and has the added benefit of being rollover protection. I think the TCP connectors are fine otherwise.

 

jerry S

New Member

Sep 3, 2003

1,365

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0

52.22N 5.12E

Sep 15, 2004

#17

• Sep 15, 2004

• #17

I have the Gee Dubs

Sub-frames, part number 911, and the jacking rails, 924.

I got them as part of the Stage 5 kit. I originally was going to pass on the GW subframes and go with TCP X set up only so I could install the TCP torque arm. However, Doug at GW talked me out of it. The one benefit I can see for the X is that if your drive shaft breaks, the TCP subframes will keep it from hitting the road and then shooting back up into your car like a spear in search of soft tissue.

 

Hack

15 Year Member

Mar 23, 2004

1,945

13

69

Minneapolis

Sep 15, 2004

#18

• Sep 15, 2004

• #18

I just had Global West connectors put in my 'vert. They seem to be well made, they took some light taps with a soft mallet to go into place. They fit tight enough to stay in place without being clamped.

 

BAD67FUN

Founding Member

Oct 31, 2001

589

0

0

Wisconsin

Sep 15, 2004

#19

• Sep 15, 2004

• #19

I have the TCP "X" installed. Maybe because I like to AutoX??

Seriously though... just about any connection from the front to rear will help improve the car. I put sub connectors on my 87' and noticed it right away also. As far as whether the cross (X) section is needed... it's my opinion that it depends on what you're doing with the car. Does it help for stuff like autocross or road racing? I'd think it would. But really how can any of us normal people know this for sure? I'm just assuming it does. It looks cool too.

 

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Snail50

Founding Member

Mar 24, 2001

787

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0

Miami

Sep 15, 2004

#20

• Sep 15, 2004

• #20

I have GW tubulars. I haven't been able to put the twist on the car yet because
a) it's gutless
b) all these f'in hurricanes
c) more suspension bugs to work out

they seem like very good units, with a decent amount of welding area for the front & rear subframes.