Subframe Connectors

TYPO - They are 119.95. Sorry about that. I agree with you too...MM all the way. The Steeda's I have now are fine for what I bought them for...low budget low torque car, but now with the 351W, I need better. The fact that I have a cage is what is not making me rush out to get them. I already have frame ties in the car, goe from the rocker plates to the rear of the floor pan. supposed to stiffen the hell out of the chassis. Don't know that they do or don't but what the hell.

89MustangGX said:

Sorry -- but I have them too. Of course mine are sitting next to me in the box, but I have them sitting right here. They weld underneath the car -- and although they have extra welding material, they are not through-the-floor. Those type require cutting the floor and the connector actually passes through the passenger compartment.

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When I bought them, they were described as through the floor, because the seat bolts go through the sub frame connectors, through the floor, and effectively sandwich together an independent peice of metal on top of the floor to the independent peice of SFC under the floor. It's pretty cut and dry. I fail to see how cutting the floor anywhere could help strengthen things, sounds counterproductive to me but whatever. I only know what they told me, and the fact is, they do bolt through the floor. Whether they are the same as the through the floor design you are refferring to is another story, but it sounds to me like saying an optima deep cell isn't a bettery because it doesn't have acid in it. It does what it does, whether it does it exactly the same way as the others or not.

Stang951 said:

I want to see the info that bolt in ones or the cheaper weld ins can damage the car. I have never heard that before....I challenge you...where's the proof!!

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I too am still waiting to hear why a cheap weld in connector could damage anything; however, I can enlighten you as to what's wrong with the bolt in ones. According to Maximum Motorsports, they don't work because they cannot be properly tightened due to the lack of structure in the cars subframes. You can look to them for the proof, because every design they reject or claim doesn't work is something they have tested extensively and watched fail. I just took their word for it- who am I to argue with them?

has anyone tried KennyBrown full matrix brace?

Where can I get a set of these MM connectors? How much approx. to have them installed?

You can get them here: http://maximummotorsports.com/sfc.asp
Not sure what to tell you for a labor price though. My tech did mine as a package deal with the rest of the suspension, and I paid him with a package deal of building him storage shelves

stangbear427 said:

When I bought them, they were described as through the floor, because the seat bolts go through the sub frame connectors, through the floor, and effectively sandwich together an independent peice of metal on top of the floor to the independent peice of SFC under the floor. It's pretty cut and dry. I fail to see how cutting the floor anywhere could help strengthen things, sounds counterproductive to me but whatever. I only know what they told me, and the fact is, they do bolt through the floor. Whether they are the same as the through the floor design you are refferring to is another story, but it sounds to me like saying an optima deep cell isn't a bettery because it doesn't have acid in it. It does what it does, whether it does it exactly the same way as the others or not.

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That's not what the "universally known" through-the-floor connector is ... most all the connectors on the market now offer the feature of bolting to the floorpan via the seats now (not through the floor -- the bolts are already there!). The ones that you cut the floor for, do not weld to the bottom of the frame like most do -- they actually go inbetween the front frame and rear frame...making as close to a full-frame car as you can get. In order to do that, the floor is cut and the connector itself passes through the floor -- as in if you look inside the car behind the front seat you will see it (without carpet of course).

Whether one style is stronger than another is hard to decide or proove (except for bolt-in vs. weld-in), but they seem to be known as the strongest. The full length's are next on the list, followed by the standard. I absolutely cannot see any of the them actually being detrimental however.

Wow. That sounds like a lot of work. I see what you mean now though, it was kinda hard to picture before. Didn't yours come with new seat bolts? I realise they were already there, but they get replaced if I remember correctly, by the longer ones that will reach through the connectors. Doesn't matter, I know what you're saying. I'm still really struggling to figure out how any could be detrimental myself- if it welds in I can't see how it could mess anything up either

Here's a link to through the floor subframe connector install:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/7138/mycar/sfc/

It's kind of hard to explain how exactly a through the floor conector works. The type on my Stang are not really made by any company's. They have to be fabbed up. Basically they run right through the floor, and they can not be seen underneath the car (you can just mainly see the welds and a bit of the connector) The advantage to this is:
-You can use bigger and stronger material without sacrificing ground clearence.
-Connector is totally level and is welded at the strongest points of the car and is welded the full length (Not just at the rear torque box and the front mounting point) The result of this is ultimate strenth and a full frame type of car.
-Most aftermarket connectors mount underneath the unibody or partially through it instead of right through like the ones I'm talking about. These aftermarket ones are not as strong and can flex on big horsepower/big slick combinations, because of this.
-Through the floor connectors provide excellent Roll Bar/Cage Mounting Points, as the bar can be welded right to the connector, resulting in ultimate strength. The uni body basically becomes one since the roll bar, connectors, and body are all welded together. Basically like a full framed car.
Anyway, what I'm saying is this design is the best out there. The only down side is they can be difficult and time consuming to install, and if you screw up the uni body can be ruined or very difficult to repare. I know guys running thse connectors in 8-9 Sec Cars, and they absolutely love them. I'm not saying that aftermarket connectors are junk, some are actually quite good and work excellent but they are not as good as right through the floor connectors which is the point I'm trying to express. I know the MM is a good design but it is not quite the same as what I am talking about. As for cheap ones ruining the uni body, what can happen is they can flex and distort the weld bead which can result in craking the uni body, especially if the connector was welded to the body poorly. Bolt in ones flex ALL the time, and can wear the bolt holes through and crack the uni body as well. Anyhow sorry for the long post, that's all I gotta say for now I think.

The webpage Stang951 posted shows pretty much what I am Talking about. Exept for the picture with the big connector going accorss the floor inside of the car. That is for huge horsepower/Tire Combinations, and isn't something you need on a street car. Thanks 951.

Thanks 408, that pretty much clears it up. No, it's not quite the same at all- as the link shows in living color. Still way, way more fabbing than I would ever want to do- I guess my fanaticism does have bounds after all. Still not sure I buy the explanation for cheap subs damaging the unibody, but never being an advocate for cheap parts anyway I guess I'll never be learning the hard way firsthand that you're right. I suppose it makes sense, just haven't heard of it ever happening to anyone. I'll trust my MM's for now, and hope for the best I guess!

stangbear427 said:

Thanks 408, that pretty much clears it up. No, it's not quite the same at all- as the link shows in living color. Still way, way more fabbing than I would ever want to do- I guess my fanaticism does have bounds after all. Still not sure I buy the explanation for cheap subs damaging the unibody, but never being an advocate for cheap parts anyway I guess I'll never be learning the hard way firsthand that you're right. I suppose it makes sense, just haven't heard of it ever happening to anyone. I'll trust my MM's for now, and hope for the best I guess!

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I woudn't wory about your MM's man. They seem to be pretty good quality. The important thing is that they were mounted and welded in proparly.

MAC'n89Blckstng said:

I've heard that subframe connectors make a HUGE difference, is this true? I have the money ready to go and I want to know what difference I will see after they're in.

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They truly make a big difference. ride quality, handling, overall confidence all improve once they are installed. I had a set installed in my '94 today...what a difference. this is not my first pony, so i knew already they are worth the money and time. i have a set of sr performance from american muscle. they were only 60 dolars and the install was 140. well worth the money and time.