What subframes? Are there a difference between the different ones, and what technologies have what advantages over others.
Thanks,
tom
Thanks,
tom
subframe connectors
- Thread starter NIN
- Start date
me too?
donjohn
New Member
are you asking about the subframe connectors in your title... all they do is hookup to the subframes and make your car more rigid, less frame movement
Nik_95Cobra
Founding Member
Go with global west. Get the full lengths with the seat braces. Only 200 bones and they're freakin awsome.
Read this thread from the other day:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=496158
Baglock is "THE MAN" with suspension. He has helped me a lot.
if you just want "something decent" you can get standard length...If you want awesome, get FULLS, with separate cross braces (not already welded on) this is for a better fit and more support. Dan convinced me that if youre gonna do it, do it ONCE and be done with it.
THe Steedas you see in that tread are Zinc plated.. You could get bare metal for less and paint them yourself, but you have to rely on your work that the paint wont come off and rust the SFC's. Also, whether they are bare and then painted or powder coated, OR bought with coating already on it...they have to be resprayed at the welding contacts.
Im going with The Steedas, b/c I can get a small discount through a local Mustang club, since Steeda is not far from me. Im going with the ALREADY zinc plated ones because Im just gonna bring the car there and let them put them on.....I wont have the SFC's in my possesion to paint them..
GOOD LUCK!
RC
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=496158
Baglock is "THE MAN" with suspension. He has helped me a lot.
if you just want "something decent" you can get standard length...If you want awesome, get FULLS, with separate cross braces (not already welded on) this is for a better fit and more support. Dan convinced me that if youre gonna do it, do it ONCE and be done with it.
THe Steedas you see in that tread are Zinc plated.. You could get bare metal for less and paint them yourself, but you have to rely on your work that the paint wont come off and rust the SFC's. Also, whether they are bare and then painted or powder coated, OR bought with coating already on it...they have to be resprayed at the welding contacts.
Im going with The Steedas, b/c I can get a small discount through a local Mustang club, since Steeda is not far from me. Im going with the ALREADY zinc plated ones because Im just gonna bring the car there and let them put them on.....I wont have the SFC's in my possesion to paint them..
GOOD LUCK!
RC
There are alot of sets out there. Is global west the best for the buck? I am also looking for the cross piece.
Car Nut
Founding Member
I've got the Kenny Brown standard length subs and they took all the squeaks away, plus cornering is much better.
I will soon be adding on the rest of KB's stuff which includes jacking rails and an Extreme matrix brace. You'd have to go to KB's site to get an idea, but basically there is a ton of bracing done that also allows for easy points to jack up the car from the side.
Most any brand is ok, just make sure they aren't round AND get them welded on. Don't bother with bolt on's.
Also, subs are pretty simple metal parts that shouldn't cost hundreds of dollars for just the basic unit. A cross brace is worth getting which bolts to your seat area.
Wish I would have done this mod the day I bought my car.
I will soon be adding on the rest of KB's stuff which includes jacking rails and an Extreme matrix brace. You'd have to go to KB's site to get an idea, but basically there is a ton of bracing done that also allows for easy points to jack up the car from the side.
Most any brand is ok, just make sure they aren't round AND get them welded on. Don't bother with bolt on's.
Also, subs are pretty simple metal parts that shouldn't cost hundreds of dollars for just the basic unit. A cross brace is worth getting which bolts to your seat area.
Wish I would have done this mod the day I bought my car.
NIN said:
You will probably like the difference with ANY of them..
If youre asking what's best (brand aside), the answer is "FULL LENGTH", with the separate cross seat, welded in. Again, if they bare, you need to paint them first, then REPAINT the welding contacts..If you get them Zinc plated or powder coated you just need to repaint the contacts.
SorsCode
20+ Year Stangneter 
I had a bunch of differnt style subframes on my car and none of them worked.... I ended up getting a custom set done by a Nolen Racing in town. There thru-the-floor subframes and these things work!.. Cost me 175 for material and time. The old ones I had didnt help my 60ft at all but these help cut .1 off plus the neat thing about these when I jack up on the Subframe connector 3 wheels come off the ground at the same time.. my olds ones never did that.. So I know these work... There the only way to go. My 2cents
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