Subframe connectors

mustangman70 · Nov 1, 2006

Okay, what are some good sub frame connectors out there...and what are some options..

When is the best time to put them in? im doign some metal work including some panal replacement, cowl work etc

Arent they supposed to be installed with pressure on car as in on the wheels

Are "through the floor" sub frames alot stronger? if so i dont mind doing it since im pretty open as to wether or not im going to put the seat back in..

amorrow · Nov 1, 2006

I think through-floor subframes should be much stronger. I posted some pics of my custom setup a week or so ago; and as you can see, I had the connectors welded to the floor the entire length. This makes the floors themselves much more rigid as well, and think a setup like this should be stronger than any pre-fabricated setup. Also, running them through the floor can give you much more ground clearance. And as far as when to install them...I was told weight doesn't have to be on the car, you just have to make sure any weight is distributed evenly (therefore, making sure the car is straight and not contorted in any way).

mustangman70 · Nov 1, 2006

So they go THROUGH the seat pan molding...

Those looks bad ass that actually CONNECTS the two frame together and it allmost looks liek one piece...

Do they make those for purchase?

Also do you have any more pics or angles showing the bottem?

mustangman70 · Nov 1, 2006

Also what re your plans for finishing? such as carpet and stuff....

amorrow · Nov 1, 2006

The connectors were first welded in, and the seat riser pans were then cut and fitted around the connectors. As for the material used, it's just boxed steel (uncertain as to exactly what type, for I didn't do the work myself...I can find out if you'd like, though).

Wrt carpet, I plan on using a traditional repro molded carpet kit and cutting around the connectors, leaving a little lip extending partially up each side; and then having an upholsterer, my body guy recommended, make a custom piece to fit over the top and give it a clean look. Considering my car will be a Shelby clone, the rear seat will be replaced by the fiberglass rear shelf. I plan on notching the bottom to accomodate the connectors and then trim the cutted area with window lace. I wish I had pics of this, but I won't be to that point for awhile.

The great thing about this setup is ground clearance isn't reduced, they'll be super-strong, and it will be hard to notice they're even there (especially if no one will use the backseat).

I don't have any more pics of the undercarriage at this moment, but I'll make a visit to the shop to get some within the next couple days if you want. I'll show how a piece was made to correct for the offset wrt the front and rear framerails.

Good luck on your project!

mustangman70 · Nov 1, 2006

Thanks man...im doing all of this work myself...and i HIGHLY doubt i could whip something like that up with such little expericance..

Im kind of leaning towreds TCP's weld in subframes with the bolt in cross member gimmick...anyone use this?

What about the connected driveshaftloop?

LMan · Nov 1, 2006

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=585422:SNSign:

brin0357 · Nov 1, 2006

I cut through the floor and cut into my frame rails. I did somewhat the r model style subframe connectors, but mine slide into the frame rails themselves, literally connecting them together.

AdamInChains · Nov 2, 2006

I'm very happy with my set of Maier Racings weld-in sub frame connectors.

Applejack · Nov 3, 2006

amorrow, have you considered the seat bottom contacting the top of the rail behind the seat pan?

I ask because I put in similar through the floor/pan connecotrs with 2x2 tubing. Yours looks to be an inch taller (2x3?). I cut my seat pans down 1.25" for helmet clearnace.

My seat is a Corbeau Forza on factory rails (modified), but it sits about as tall as a stock seat. In the furthest back position the seat is riding on the rail.

I suppose this is just a word of caution when you go to mount the seat. Perhaps some washers to stack it up will be in order.

amorrow · Nov 3, 2006

Applejack said:
amorrow, have you considered the seat bottom contacting the top of the rail behind the seat pan?

I ask because I put in similar through the floor/pan connecotrs with 2x2 tubing. Yours looks to be an inch taller (2x3?). I cut my seat pans down 1.25" for helmet clearnace.

My seat is a Corbeau Forza on factory rails (modified), but it sits about as tall as a stock seat. In the furthest back position the seat is riding on the rail.

I suppose this is just a word of caution when you go to mount the seat. Perhaps some washers to stack it up will be in order.

Thanks for the heads-up, but yes, I was aware of this potential problem. I'm using stock '65 seats/tracks for originality (the rollbar is actually the only R-model piece I'm using), and they fit just as they did stock. With the original seat tracks, extended fully back, the seats clear the connectors. I wondered at first, but because the stock seats have plenty of clearance in the center portion of the frame, all is good.

jamison42166 · Nov 4, 2006

here is a pic of the TCP subframe assembly with driveshaft safety loop. you probably will need to reroute your exhaust like i did the old one was in the way.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamison42166/detail?.dir=9e20&.dnm=4cdcre2.jpg

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jamison42166/detail?.dir=9e20&.dnm=5faare2.jpg&.src=ph

washMO66 · Nov 4, 2006

I have the TCP subframe but not the crossmember X brace. Now that my exhaust is done and just the way I want it I was concerened about clearance. I figure the subframes along with the 6 point cage should firm mine up enough.

Pakrat · Nov 4, 2006

Even though my car was completely straightened after the accident being a convertible it always felt like the cowl was going to fallin half going over a speed bump and it was a low mile unmolested truly rust free car. I chose to add the Global West subframes to it in the rebuild, better safe than sorry and I like round tube over square for stability purposes. I bought the bolt ins but am welding them in instead because I like the way they attach better than the weld in ones.

Marshall · Nov 5, 2006

If your'e looking at options this is how I stiffened my vert. While it was upside down I also stiched welded all the seams. It was surprising how few spot welds there were in some places.

Subframe connectors

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