91notch. you are the 2nd person that has mentioned to me that they "slip" the rear pinion bearing on. i am going to try this next one i do. sounds like a great idea.
Summit gear-sets will work just fine. As somebody mentioned they are not manufactered by Summit and if I recall I think they are a Motive set. Anyways, I have used Ricmond, Motive, and FMS. They are all fine. Richmond does make a pro gear for heavy duty racing and hard launching that is made of a softer alloy to avoid breakage.
Setting the ring and pinion up does take some experience. I have set-up over 100 sets so I now have a eye for it. I will give you a few tips that I have learned over the years. Use these tips along with the complete procedure of installing a new gear-set.
-Start by removing the old large pinion bearing from the pinion gear and get the shim that is under the bearing. I always use the old pinion shim as a starting point for pinion depth.
-Put the old shim on the new pinion gear. I have a large pinion bearing that is machined to be a slip fit on the pinion gear and I use it to start. I simply slip it on the new pinion gear with the old shim underneath.
-I then install the the pinion gear in the housing without the crush sleeve and I tighten it down so I have no lash and a little bit of preload. *You don't install the crush sleeve yet because you may have to remove the pinion gear to change pinion depth later.
-I next use the old carrier shims and install the differential with the new ring gear attached. I make sure I tighten the carrier straps on both sides because if I don't my backlash may not be accurate. I measure backlash with a dial indicator. Typically I shoot for .010 +/- .002.
-Run a pattern with gear marking compound. This step is the KEY to success. Let me say this again this step is KEY to success. This will indicate exactly how the ring gear is meshing with the pinion gear.
-Brush the compound on the gear teeth to cover 4-5 gear teeth and cover the teeth completely on both the drive and coast side of the ring gear. Make sure you get a nice even amount of compound on the teeth.
-Have a friend help you create resistance on the ring gear by using a rag on his palm to hold the ring gear as hard as he can while you turn the pinion. Pass through the painted gears then revese directions and have your friend hold resistance in both directions so that you get a good pattern on both the drive and coast side of the gear. Turn the pinion gear smooth and steady to get a good pattern.
-Resistance is important for an indicative pattern. It may take a few tries to get a good pattern if you are new to this method. The pattern is key to sucess because depending on how the pattern looks will tell you if your pinion depth is correct and if your backlash is correct. If the pattern indicates changes in pinion depth then change the shim in .005 incriments. About 80% of the time the original shim will get your pinion depth perfect.
-When you are satisified with the pattern then remove the pinion gear and press on a new large pinion bearing and install your crush sleeve to set your pinion bearing preload. I use a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve because it will never collapse like a crush sleeve may and it only costs $10. A crush sleeve is fine on most cars.
In summary: Setting up a gear-set is trial and error process. Remember, use the old pinion shim. Use a slip on large bearing if possible. Run a pattern with resistance and read the pattern. Adjust as necessary until a good pattern is achieved.
I have used the pinion depth tools but they just collect dust. I have found that they will get you close but are not always accurate. The shim method works for me and is about 80%. Remember this process is trial and error so be patient and don't run the car until you have a good pattern.
i have figured out that most stuff that summit sells as their brand is really made by someone else.
there fuel pumps are walbro. (found that out yesterday)
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