Summit Manual Rack

sen2two · Jan 4, 2016

I just picked up a Summit 20:1 manual rack. After quite a bit of searching, I'm left a little confused. I'm looking for some real life experience on what needs to be done to the steering column shaft. Way to much conflicting information out there on this...

If you have personally done this and have 1st hand experience, I would greatly appreciate the info. I would MUCH rather modify my current shaft and not have to buy the Flaming River or MM shaft.

Also, tie rod ends. Would I just use the stock Fox ends, or is there and upgraded version available?

FoxMustangLvr · Jan 4, 2016

How would you modify the stock shaft to work? You have to remove the rag joint at a minimum. I would suggest the Maximum Motorsports steering shaft. I have the 15:1 flaming river with the FR steering shaft and that shaft makes me nervous because it has too many nuts, bolts and set screws that can come loose. I only installed it but have yet to actually drive with it on the road yet. I have a UPR bump steer kit for a manual rack set up because my car will be lowered. I think there is a difference in tie rod length between the stock power steering setup and the manual rack setup. You should use whatever the manufacturer instructions suggest to use. The more you customize and deviate from what is suggested the more you risk it not working or performing like it should.

hoopty5.0 · Jan 4, 2016

FoxMustangLvr said:
How would you modify the stock shaft to work? You have to remove the rag joint at a minimum. I would suggest the Maximum Motorsports steering shaft. I have the 15:1 flaming river with the FR steering shaft and that shaft makes me nervous because it has too many nuts, bolts and set screws that can come loose. I only installed it but have yet to actually drive with it on the road yet. I have a UPR bump steer kit for a manual rack set up because my car will be lowered. I think there is a difference in tie rod length between the stock power steering setup and the manual rack setup. You should use whatever the manufacturer instructions suggest to use. The more you customize and deviate from what is suggested the more you risk it not working or performing like it should.

Weld that bish up. The nuts make me nervous too. Just gotta dip it in water after you weld it to keep from boiling the grease out of the joints.

FoxMustangLvr · Jan 4, 2016

From the Summit instructions regarding tie rods

When installing the outer tie rod ends make sure to have proper thread engagement. Proper thread engagement is a minimum of 1.5 times the diameter of the threaded end. Example: 9/16” diameter threaded inner tie rod end should have no less than 27/32” thread engagement.

FoxMustangLvr · Jan 4, 2016

hoopty5.0 said:
Weld that bish up. The nuts make me nervous too. Just gotta dip it in water after you weld it to keep from boiling the grease out of the joints.

I'm going to spend the $$ on the MM piece just so I can relax behind the wheel. I hate the dead spot in my steering wheel I have while driving from my PS.

sen2two · Jan 4, 2016

This one?

Steering Shaft Assembly, Manual Steering Rack, 1979-93 Mustang

Call me cheap, but I can't see spending $240 plus shipping for the shaft. I only paid $150 for the rack! I have a mill, lathe, MIG and TIG at my disposal.

I've read in my research that you can modify the stock set up to fit. But how to get it done varies from one to another. The car is my daily right now so I would rather have as much information as possible before getting started. If I start on Saturday, it has to he done by Sunday night and ready to drive to work Monday morning.

hoopty5.0 · Jan 4, 2016

sen2two said:
This one?

Steering Shaft Assembly, Manual Steering Rack, 1979-93 Mustang

Call me cheap, but I can't see spending $240 plus shipping for the shaft. I only paid $150 for the rack! I have a mill, lathe, MIG and TIG at my disposal.

I've read in my research that you can modify the stock set up to fit. But how to get it done varies from one to another. The car is my daily right now so I would rather have as much information as possible before getting started. If I start on Saturday, it has to he done by Sunday night and ready to drive to work Monday morning.

IF you're industrious like me, all of the pieces are available through speedway motors and you can build one yourself. Just don't tell anyone that you built one and didn't buy one -or- 10,000 people will be foaming at the mouth telling you that you will kill yourself and everyone in a 10 miles radius in a fiery wreck for not shelling out the $240.

Edit* Almost forgot the obligatory eye-rolling emoji.

sen2two · Jan 4, 2016

I modified a chassis and built wheelie bars from scratch on a car that's been 5.90's in the 1/4. Sometimes around the 230mph area. That's scary...

Modifying a steering shaft... not so much a bid deal. I just need to know what needs to he done before I disassemble the front end. If I don't have the material or anything else on hand to complete it, I'll be pedaling my way to pick it up! Lol...

FoxMustangLvr · Jan 4, 2016

Homemade steering shaft? I heard that the woman in Vegas had a homemade steering shaft that went faulty on her and we know how that ended. We are all going to die!!! Ha!

hoopty5.0 · Jan 4, 2016

FoxMustangLvr said:
Homemade steering shaft? I heard that the woman in Vegas had a homemade steering shaft that went faulty on her and we know how that ended. We are all going to die!!! Ha!

This would qualify as home assembled, right?

sen2two · Jan 4, 2016

Well I spoke to the guy I got it from who had it installed in his thunderbird coupe. He said he used nothing aftermarket and with zero modification to install it. He said he purchased it as a direct fit unit...

I'm skeptical about this, but I already have it so I don't see why he would lie or bend the truth.

I'll have to look into this. I wasn't aware they sold direct fit units. If they actually do that is...?

sen2two · Jan 4, 2016

Nope... it states right there at the bottom that "If converting from power to manual. A new steering shaft is needed".

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770613

FoxMustangLvr · Jan 4, 2016

sen2two said:
Nope... it states right there at the bottom that "If converting from power to manual. A new steering shaft is needed".

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770613

the manual racks require a solid steering shaft

sen2two · Jan 5, 2016

So the Summit shaft has a 9/16 - 26 spline end. I haven't measured my stock shaft, but I have read it is 3/4" with no splines.

Can anyone confirm this?

If this is correct, this is a low buck alternative.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-sc-201/overview/

CarMichael Angelo · Jan 5, 2016

Clearly,....I'm late to this party.

It's called double D steering shaft bar stock, and it looks like this:

This cost 14 bucks for an 24" section.

Then you get the u joints for the ends of the shaft.
One like this:

and one like this:

They look the same, but the one on the bottom is splined to fit the steering rack, the one on top slides onto the 3/4 bar on each end.
Then cut to fit, drill a hole in the end the slides into the steering column, and grind/mill a groove so it will. Tighten the set screws, lock the jam nuts,.....drive a hundred thousand miles,...sleep soundly at night.
If you cut the thing the right length, the shaft cannot slip or come out of the u joints, as it simply cannot go anywhere (unless your rack or steering column somehow fall off.) I've had these things on the last 5 cars that I've built.
I haven't wrecked.
I haven't killed anyone.
I'm not dead.
I'm not a whiny little b itch.

Same shaft as the flaming river piece, only you'll be in it for 164.00 as opposed to 279.00

RangerJoe · Jan 5, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Clearly,....I'm late to this party.

It's called double D steering shaft bar stock, and it looks like this:

This cost 14 bucks for an 24" section.

Then you get the u joints for the ends of the shaft.
One like this:

and one like this:

They look the same, but the one on the bottom is splined to fit the steering rack, the one on top slides onto the 3/4 bar on each end.
Then cut to fit, drill a hole in the end the slides into the steering column, and grind/mill a groove so it will. Tighten the set screws, lock the jam nuts,.....drive a hundred thousand miles,...sleep soundly at night.
If you cut the thing the right length, the shaft cannot slip or come out of the u joints, as it simply cannot go anywhere (unless your rack or steering column somehow fall off.) I've had these things on the last 5 cars that I've built.
I haven't wrecked.
I haven't killed anyone.
I'm not dead.
I'm not a whiny little b itch.

Same shaft as the flaming river piece, only you'll be in it for 164.00 as opposed to 279.00

Mike, where are you purchasing these items?

Joe

CarMichael Angelo · Jan 5, 2016

RangerJoe said:
Mike, where are you purchasing these items?

Joe

Summit. The shaft is searchable under DD steering shaft, and the u joints are Borgeson.
Seriously, all I've ever had to do to make this stuff fit is knowing the spline count of the rack and ordering the appropriate ujoint.
from there a cutoff wheel, or a band saw (you could use a hack saw,...but you'd saw your balls off) A angle grinder to grind the cup into the part that slides into the column, and a drill for the hole the bolt goes through.

Easy peezy lemon squeezy.

CarMichael Angelo · Jan 5, 2016

hoopty5.0 said:
IF you're industrious like me, all of the pieces are available through speedway motors and you can build one yourself. Just don't tell anyone that you built one and didn't buy one -or- 10,000 people will be foaming at the mouth telling you that you will kill yourself and everyone in a 10 miles radius in a fiery wreck for not shelling out the $240.

Edit* Almost forgot the obligatory eye-rolling emoji.

Quiet you,.....there were weld integrity concerns w/ that piece you posted a pic of. I only was foaming because it's my job to foam.

hoopty5.0 · Jan 5, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Quiet you,.....there were weld integrity concerns w/ that piece you posted a pic of. I only was foaming because it's my job to foam.

Oh I forgot about you. I was referring to what happened on the local board. At any rate, I trust the welds more than those lousy set screws on the Flaming River unit.

CarMichael Angelo · Jan 5, 2016

hoopty5.0 said:
Oh I forgot about you. I was referring to what happened on the local board. At any rate, I trust the welds more than those lousy set screws on the Flaming River unit.

That's because you do not fully grasp the logical.

It is illogical to believe that even if the set screws completely fall out, the shaft will fall out. (when was the last time you tried to get a completely loosened stock shaft out w/o dropping the column, or the rack?
It is illogical to believe that even if the set screws fall out, the shaft will find a way to somehow "spin" inside the DD u joints.
It is illogical to believe that subjecting those poor little chicken peen sized needle bearings in the u joint to 2500 degrees only a half inch away is somehow better than not.

And.....

in todays society, where the first half of the day on TV is made up of ambulance chasing lawyers looking for somebody to sue, that some company would risk making a thingy that would somehow fail on something as critical as ohhhhh I don't know,........steering a car.

Better call Saul.

Summit Manual Rack

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning

I love my Pimp

mechanicus terribilis

I love my Pimp

I love my Pimp

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning

mechanicus terribilis

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning

I love my Pimp

mechanicus terribilis

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning

I love my Pimp

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

I leave the horn on while driving

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

mechanicus terribilis

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

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