Fox Suspension Advice

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stpete

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Dec 26, 2015

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Jan 7, 2016

#21

• Jan 7, 2016

• #21

89oem said:

My .02 get KYB gas adjust shocks/struts and eibach pro springs and mm cc plates and itll fix all handling/ride issues and make the car tight and fun to drive. Tried and true for about 90% of the folks here, I ran it for years until I went to the full mm etc stuff...

And it wont cost you a bundle right now either.

Click to expand...

I saw some mention of that. Are those the KYBs that wind up around $200 for the full set (ie not the adjustable AGX). If so, it's what I'm considering for now.

 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician

Aug 8, 2003

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Jan 7, 2016

#22

• Jan 7, 2016

• #22

I think you have to find out why the car won't align with stock springs in it.
The camber and caster being out on a stock height car with stock springs is kinda odd.

It won't align to the specs the alignment guys want? Or won't align to factory specs?

 

89oem

Mustang Master

Dec 18, 2013

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Jan 8, 2016

#23

• Jan 8, 2016

• #23

Yes, those. And 2000xp8 has a good point, just make sure there are no "structural" issues for alignment, either way sounds like you need new springs/shocks regardless... Also Steeda makes good products.

 

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stpete

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Jan 8, 2016

#24

• Jan 8, 2016

• #24

Unfortunately I left the shop without the alignment paperwork. It wasn't the type of shop that would aim for anything other than factory specs. I really don't know what is on the car, but my best guess is stock springs. Maybe sagging? Maybe the car is twisted from no subframe connectors?

 

89oem

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Jan 8, 2016

#25

• Jan 8, 2016

• #25

Id ask the shop if they saw anything out of character, either way replace the springs/shocks and cc plates - youll have to re-align it then anyway...
FYI, Camber is typically the hardest thing to get set right on foxes with the stock parts

 

88LXSleeper

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Jan 6, 2016

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Jan 8, 2016

#26

• Jan 8, 2016

• #26

My 88 lx I have about $5000 invested in whole project car and parts. $3000 for the car. Sve lowering springs and KYB shock package $350, offset poly rack bushings $20, caster camber plates $150, MM panhard bar $375 ,weld in frame stiffeners $90, strut tower brace $120, performance friction carbon metallic pads on front $60, not real good on steet but don't fade on track. GT40p heads and intake from pull a part $150, new valve springs $100, E cam $100, cold air intake $100, short headers $250, plus replacing all the 25 year old parts, LSD clutches, ball joints, tie rods, steering rack, u-joints etc.... She did ok even on cheap mastercraft all season tires 225-55-16, got some new wheels 17 by 8 four lug pony wheels, hey I like the stock look, next investment some 245-45 17, leaning towards the Dunlop star specs.
View: https://youtu.be/ldrDFD59

 

Last edited: Jan 10, 2016

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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Mar 2, 2015

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Jan 8, 2016

#27

• Jan 8, 2016

• #27

If its doing the groove following thing I'd suggest checking the rubber rag joint on the steering shaft above the rack. I'm guessing you have decent experience with alignment angles and front end set ups seeing you have a miata race car. I like seeing those little cars tearing up asphalt with 5.0 motors at Summit Point Raceway. Go with MM you'll thank yourself in the end.

 

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stpete

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Dec 26, 2015

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Jan 9, 2016

#28

• Jan 9, 2016

• #28

It's definitely doing the groove following thing. Based on my Miata experience I was assuming that had to do with too much camber, but I should probably replace the rag joint. It's probably original. If you're at Summit on a SCCA weekend, I'm SSM #199. I plan to do 3 or 4 SCCA/MARRS weekends this year. I also instruct at some of the track days put on by SCCA and Trackdaze.

 

2000xp8

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Jan 9, 2016

#29

• Jan 9, 2016

• #29

In my experience on the street, positive caster fixes following ruts.
Kenny brown used to even make CC plates called caster plus, which just set it max positive caster, wasn't even an adjustment. I used them for quite a while after having my BBK's keep coming loose, then when I went to coil overs I bought MM's.

 

Reactions: A5literMan

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stpete

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Dec 26, 2015

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Jan 9, 2016

#30

• Jan 9, 2016

• #30

I bought a set of used MM caster/camber plates off ebay. Hopefully they are in good shape. I also ordered a set of the KYB gas-adjust shocks from Rock auto for around $155 to get the thing working for now. I think I'll live with whatever springs are on there until I can afford the MM setup.
If the car works well enough, I think the next thing I want to do is subframe connectors. I'm also considering jack rails. I really like being able to jack the Miata from the side better than the Mustang from front/back.

 

Reactions: A5literMan

2000xp8

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Jan 9, 2016

#31

• Jan 9, 2016

• #31

I think we all wish we had jacking rails, but I think the only setup that works with them is the Kenny brown extreme matrix subframe setup.
Which is also triple the money.
Let us know if you find any other way to run them be nice if the kb parts worked with mm subs.

 

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stpete

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Dec 26, 2015

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Jan 9, 2016

#32

• Jan 9, 2016

• #32

It looks like KB just sells the jacking rails. They don't connect to the subs, but are welded behind the pinch weld. Could fab some tubes to go between them, but probably not necessary. I'll have to call KB and find out.

 

Black1987

my wife Bedazzled my input shaft

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Jan 9, 2016

#33

• Jan 9, 2016

• #33

Look at Stifflers system.

Chassis Stiffening FIT System 1979-1993 Mustang fox body

 

89oem

Mustang Master

Dec 18, 2013

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Jan 10, 2016

#34

• Jan 10, 2016

• #34

Ive seen a few mounted stiffler "ladders" they look nice and really tighten it up.