suspension and rear end build

[blackstangt]

ok rear end is more important, so, here goes
Bent the axle, oops... going to build a rear, not sure what to use or how to rebuild. also websites are helpful, trying to keep it cheap as possible.
1. can i reuse the stock housing, or should i mod?
2. 350-375 hp, 28 or 31 spline axles and which?
3. what limited slip? drag racing capability(no slicks) is a must
4. rebuild kit/bearings/anything else?

suspension
looked at bullitt kit, under $500, and just shocks and springs any other suggestions, frpp-c springs?
what strut tower brace will work with edelbrock performer rpm clone?
other important and necessary parts?

thanks for any useful input.

 

[blackstangt]

someone help me out please

 

[blackstangt]

bump, come on

 

[93-331-29psi]

I would use the stock housing with 31 spline carrier/axles and focus on getting the power to the ground by modifying the suspension. Is the car going to be used mostly for drag racing or is it also a daily driver? This of course will determine what shocks and springs you want to use and how radical you can go.

There are many people with strut tower braces to clear the edelbrock and GT40s. Stiffening the chassis is a good start. Also ensure that you have sub frame connectors installed also. Check with steeda & griggs are for the strut braces.

 

[srothfuss]

not sure what to use or how to rebuild. also websites are helpful

These are two places you can get some information from:
1) www.auburngear.com
2) www.traction.eaton.com/prod6.htm

Both sites have some good reading, if you need more just call one of the tech's and they can also help. Depending on your budget (cheaper the better) the original differential can be rebuilt for around $50.00 in parts + Labor and will serve it's purpose as a quite LSD. It'll be great on the street and still give you all of the traction you need at the track.

1. can i reuse the stock housing, or should i mod?
2. 350-375 hp, 28 or 31 spline axles and which?
3. what limited slip? drag racing capability(no slicks) is a must
4. rebuild kit/bearings/anything else?

1.) The stock housing is fine. no need for a 9" in most applications. The only recomendation is that you weld the axle tubs to the pumpkin. They are just press-fit from the factory and can spin or come loose in high horsepower applications.
2.) For the sake of keeping costs under control, reuse the stockers and avoid launching at high RPM's on the track (with slicks.) The stock axles will last longer than a stock transmission / clutch in drag race applications. So as long as you aren't launching like you're trying to rip the car into two pieces everything should hold together. But it is a failure that can happen so just be prepared for if/when it does
3.) For cost resons - the stock piece rebuilt. I like clutchless type LSD's (Auburn 28T in my car) but I love going fast around corners.
4.) TRAC-LOC rebuild kit. Welding for the axle tubes. New bearings. New Fluids (F.M. depending on fluid type.) It's possible to get aftermarket 28T axles that are stronger than the stock pieces, but that will effect the budget.

looked at bullitt kit, under $500, and just shocks and springs any other suggestions, frpp-c springs?
what strut tower brace will work with edelbrock performer rpm clone?
other important and necessary parts?

thanks for any useful input.

I can't comment on the suspension pieces, I am all stock at the moment. The only thing I have done was replace the struts/shocks with stock replacement parts to fix some ride quality issues I was having.

MM's strut tower brace will clear intakes. Henceforward has one. I will be getting one.