Suspension Help!!!

Stanger16 said:

I know this is the 4.6L section but it feels like every time i post in the 3.8? section I never get any help, so i was hoping ppl in here wouldn't mind helping a fellow stang owner out..

looking to replace the suspension in my 98 3.8L. I know there is Eibach out there along with a bunch of other companies. I am not well versed in suspension so I was looking for some help on what company, brand, and route to take. I am looking to replace it for the street. This is a daily driver car and I am looking to eventually put some mods into the car to get some more hp but not intending to race the car. I need to really replace everything.. Shocks, struts, springs,..etc... Any help in pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

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You came to the right place my friend. Keep in mind that the suspension mods I'll list below will likely cost around $1000. Are you absolutely certain you won't be buying a V-8 Mustang in the near future? The reason I ask is it would be a waste to spend all that money/time installing these mods if you're just going to buy another car anyways. I'll give you advice anyways.

First of all, buy yourself some FLSFC's from MM. They cost around $150 and are an excellent way to stiffen up the chassis.

If you want to upgrade springs, shocks, and struts, I'd suggest getting the Eibach pro-kit. They are progressive rate springs so ride quality won't suffer too bad and the drop is perfect for a DD IMO. For shocks/struts you can't beat the quality and cost of the Tokiko HP (blue's).

Now you'll want to upgrade the LCA's as well. For that I'd again recommend getting a pair of the MM LCA's with the spherical bushing on one end and the poly bushing on the other.

All of these parts are relatively inexpensive and when you're done installing them your car will feel like a completely different animal. The shocks/struts, springs, and LCA's are very easy to install and there are some good writeups online for them. I'd have the FLSFC's installed somewhere that has a lift, but be sure the car is supported by teh wheels and not the frame otherwise they'll be welded on to a car body that is tweaked.

Here's my car when I bought it:



This is after I installed all of the suspension stuff (same set-up I am suggesting above):







And this is after I installed my FR500 wheels:













Stock wheels:

Stanger16 said:

I can never say never to buying another mustang and this time a V8, however at this present point in time the last thing on my mind,(and that I can afford) is a newer v8 stang. I have had this for 6 years and i thought i was ready to get rid of it and get another car for the time being but I can not get myself to let go of the car even though its a v6. It has kind of been a project car (nothing major) but every problem that it has had i have done myself with my haynes manual. so it has some value to me cause i'm not a mechanic by trait but I am becoming a good backyard mechanic because i'm not affraid to work on a car thats 13 years old.

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That makes sense to me. Keep in mind that clean 96-98 GT's are selling for $3000-4500... something you may want to consider when deciding whether or not to spend $1000 on suspension parts. If you install yourself, it's no big deal cause you can remove it later. If you have it installed, however, expect to pay at least another several hundred dollars.

Hope the suspension advice helps, and let us know if you have any other specific questions. Always glad to help a fellow stanger

I had the H&R SuperSports (springs) but they are a radical drop so I switched to Eibachs recently. I have the Pro kit now. I have Bilstein struts and shocks. They are pricey. I also have MM C/C plates. I will be getting MM LCAs hopefully this year. I just spent close to $700 plus will be buying new tires so my budget for 2011 may have already been reached...

Here is what FRPP "C" springs look like

Before

After

The MM starter kit is nice, but it's not the cheapest way to go. More like one of the most expensive, and it still doesn't include subframe connectors.

MM makes good parts but "inexpensive" they aren't. You are more likely to save money buying the parts independently from different vendors than buying a package from MM. However, if you have the money, you might as well get a kit from MM. I just wouldn't pretend that I was somehow saving money by doing that.

I hate to be the once to burst your bubble, but bolt on mods to a 3.8L is a waste of time. That's like putting a fart can on a 100 hp civic.

If you want to go faster, save the money and upgrade the motor. I've seen many turbo 3.8L that would smoke tons of cars.

What is your reason for wanting to upgrade the suspension? Just looks? Handling?
If it were me, I would keep the stock suspension and save money. Either spend it on boost, or another platform.

Stanger16 said:

If i could keep the stock suspension i would but after 180,000 miles it is all tired. I can not take a corner or a bump without hearing a whole bunch of squeaking, creaking and when i go over a bump or pot hole you feel every ounce of it.

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I would recommend Advanced Auto, or your local auto parts store.

Stanger16 said:

If i could keep the stock suspension i would but after 180,000 miles it is all tired. I can not take a corner or a bump without hearing a whole bunch of squeaking, creaking and when i go over a bump or pot hole you feel every ounce of it.

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ignore maxpowers. Merely replacing worn out suspension components is worth the money. Upgrading doesn't have to be much more expensive. And definitely get full length subframe connectors. It'll feel like a brand new car.

Stanger16 said:

so it has some value to me cause i'm not a mechanic by trait but I am becoming a good backyard mechanic because i'm not affraid to work on a car thats 13 years old

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You got to learn from somewhere, but don't miss the opportunity to upgrade because you think you have a relationship with your car, the knowledge stays with you not matter what car you go to and that's what matters.

You can buy all of the replacement parts at UPR Products | Mustang Parts & Performance | Mustang Suspension | Mustang Billet | Mustang Cold Air Intakes | Mustang Exhaust. Their Street line of suspension components are an excellent combination of strength and durability with improved performance. Also, UPR Products have a lifetime guarantee.

A GREAT kit for the money is the Bullitt Suspension Kit. I just did this (except I used Tokico HP shocks/struts instead of the Tokico ones that come with the kit [I got the springs and sway bars used]), and the car is at least 10 times better driving and handling. It is a very nice compromise between handling, looks, and ride quality. As it has been said so many times, ALL 94-04 Mustangs should have come like this from the factory. With all the isolators removed, I dropped 1.6 inches in the front, and 1.4 in the rear, on my car (98 GT). The stance is PERFECT, in my opinion (I'll have pictures early next week.)

I also did the Steeda X2 ball joints (probably not worth it if you are really on a budget, but still very nice and helpful pieces) and new tie rod ends. I'm going to at least repack the wheel bearings next time I go home. I suggest that you, at a minimum, replace the tie rod ends and repack the wheel bearings.

When it was all said and done, I got it aligned. I can hardly believe how much better it drives than it used to, not to mention the extra life I'll get out of the tires.

Is it stiffer than stock? Definitely. Do I dislike the extra stiffness? Not one bit. It is VERY easy to get over the slightly harsher ride when you, in return, get a much better handling and looking car.

You can do all of this, with all new parts, for <$700. And it is a very worthwhile investment, IMO. Plus, you are making your car much safer by replacing worn out components. 3 of the 4 strut bolts on my car were VERY worn, as in, more than 1/3 the diameter of the bolt was gone. That's just not safe.

And also, you can do all of this on your own as long as you have a few basic tools and some time on your hands. The springs, shocks, struts, sway bars, and tie rod ends are honestly pretty easy, but the ball joints are quite a pain.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.