Suspension install..

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/ctips.htm

Everything you need. Spring compressor rent from autozone. Be very carefull when you do the springs

you DO NOT need a spring compressor

+1 on not needing a spring compressor.

The only other thing I can think of is to PB Blaster the brake caliper bolts tonight.

Not sure if you have an air compressor or anything but to get off the top nut off the struts, your going to need some air.. (unless other people do it another way )
The springs are easy and there is no need for a spring compressor...

It is true you can do it without a spring compressor, but if you haven't done it before, i'd reccomend using some, just to be safe. Also, might be tough to do alone without compressors, i needed a buddy to stand on the control arm to get the spring in.

Here is the LCA install writeup I made after doing my LCA's

Maximum Motorsports LCA install how to
Maximum Motorsports LCA install(MMRLCA-1)

Tools needed:
3 jack stands
Floor jack
2 1/2" drive ratchet
1 1/4" drive
2 18mm sockets
1 21MM deep socket for the lugnuts
1 13 mm socket
1 8mm socket
1 flathead screwdriver
1 pry bar

This can be done using hand tools. However, power tools are recommended to get the job done
alot faster.


1. Place the car in Neutral and the emergency brake is off. Chock the front wheels
and jack the rear of the car up and place 2 floor jacks supporting the chassis.3 rd
jack stand will sit under the axle on one side.

2. Next remove the rear wheels and on the lower control arm remove the Parking brake
and ABS cable brackets. Also remove the rear sway bar4 bolts, 2 per side. Some of
the 94 and newer cars abs/parking brake bracket is on the swaybar bolt.

3. Now under the vehicle where the LCA mounts into the chasis loosen up the mounting
bolt that holds the LCA to the chasis, but do not remove it yet.

4. Place Floor jack under LCA where it bolts onto the axle mount and rear shock.Raise
the axle slightly to where the axle is just above full droop. Then remove the rear
bolt that holds the LCA to the axle mount.

5. Slowly lower the floor jack to allow the rear coil spring to extend itself to where
it can come out of the spring mount and LCA. You can use a chain to keep the spring
from shooting out. ( please use caution when lowering as spring is under pressure)

6. Once that is done you can remove the LCA chassis mounting bolt from the chassis.

7. You can use this time to remove the parking brake by removing the safety clip and
remove the parking brake cable and slide the cable brackets out and flip the brackets
upside down and reinstall the emergency brake cable back onto the rear brakes.

8. Take the LCA and the supplied grease, 3 bushings, metal sleeve. There are 2 big
bushings which go on the outer and inner part of the LCA and a smaller bushing that
will go in between them both. Make sure you install the metal sleeve through the center
of the bushing's. You can use a flathead screw driver to pack the grease or put it on
before you install the bushings.

9. Now grease up the outside of the bushing and insert into the chassis and insert the
chasis mounting bolt, but do not tighten just yet. Re insert the spring and lower
isolator and make sure the springs pigtail is facing rearward.

10.Jack up the LCA and using a pry bar or a buddy pry the axle back into position to allow
the axle bolt to go into the LCA and tighten the bolts. Once that is tightend, go and
tighten the chassis mounting bolt.

11. Install the parking brake/abs bracket back onto the LCA.

For the opposite side, follow steps 3 through 11.

12. If you have quad shocks, you can either leave them on or remove them as the MM LCA
eliminates the need for them. The bottom bolt where it bolts onto the axle is a 15 mm
and the top where it bolts to the chassis is an 18mm.

13. Re install the rear wheels and torque down the lug nuts to around 95 ft/lbs and lower
the car off the jack stands.

The car feels more sturdier than before and the rear feels more planted. I can feel every
bit of the road and the bumps are more stable. Kind of like having an overinflated tire.
There really isn't any NVH as many say are supposed to with these arms as they have spherical
bushing and all.

Overall I like em and simple to install. A good product for a normal driven car that will
be seeing some track time again.
If you have any questions, feel free to email me at phil@svt4u2try.com

I didn't need a spring compressor either but I did have someone to help as mentioned above. It helps if you can get the car up as high as possible so that the control arms in the front have more room to travel downward. Just let the jack down SLOWLY when removing the springs....putting the new springs in was actually pretty easy, used a bar to pry them in with my helper pushing down on the arms. Good luck!

Oh yea. I followed this one http://www.dndgarage.net/springinstall.htm for the front springs. I later found out that I didn't have to disconnect the tierod end. If I had unlocked the steering wheel, I could have turned the streering wheel to allow the A arm to come down lower.