Suspension Setup

N

nightrider50

Member

Aug 28, 2003

186

0

17

California

Jul 10, 2004

#1

• Jul 10, 2004

• #1

here is what i want to order. it is a daily driver but i want to setup the suspension for mainly drag because i dont take corners fast. also i got a high school kid's budget. let me know what u guys think of the setup and if u would change anything out...

X2C Boxer R rear upper & lower control arms

BBK Subframe Connectors

Eibach Drag Launch Springs (do i need C/C plates?)

Lakewood 70/30 front and Lakewood 50/50 rear struts
(I have KYB shocks already. would the lakewoods make a big difference?)

thanx

 

N

nightrider50

Member

Aug 28, 2003

186

0

17

California

Jul 11, 2004

#2

• Jul 11, 2004

• #2

anybody???

 

N

nightrider50

Member

Aug 28, 2003

186

0

17

California

Jul 23, 2004

#3

• Jul 23, 2004

• #3

please?

 

DJTR

Member

Mar 19, 2004

228

0

16

OTTAWA, Ontario, Canada

Jul 23, 2004

#4

• Jul 23, 2004

• #4

I'v always used kenny brown and KYB equipment, Id love to help but I'm not familiar with the specs on those.....


Good luck

 

C

chevyeater

Founding Member

Sep 17, 2002

438

0

0

Jul 23, 2004

#5

• Jul 23, 2004

• #5

get some good lower control arms that work in stock mounting location.( any brand is o k except those that use different mount location such as southsides etc.) get double adjustable uppers with solid mounts.( chassis engineering or similar) use 90-10s struts. 50-50 rears. use stock 4 or 6 cylinder springs front. use stock springs rear. set pinion angle to neg 2 degrees. this set up will handle 1.4 60fts. after that you will need anti roll bar set up for better 60 fts. to lower car. set blocks under frame 1 to 1 1/2 inches to desired ride height. heat springs to releive tension till the car sets down on the blocks at desired height. make sure car is leveled all the way around to do this. use any good weld in subframe connectors or fabricate your own. make sure car is level when you put them in. this is budget suspension that works just as good as the high dollar stuff. will handle 700 hp. may also want to reinforce the upper control arm mounts. they may tear out with some good power. we never had problem though with ours.

Later,
Dave

 

C

chevyeater

Founding Member

Sep 17, 2002

438

0

0

Jul 23, 2004

#6

• Jul 23, 2004

• #6

o.k. got a little heat about heating the springs. don't use on the street. get some good springs for the rear. convert to coil overs on the front if you can. if you're only running 12's or slower then just use the stock springs.when you get to the 10's then you can convert to the better set up. please don't race on the street. you might kill some one. and there are some big horny dudes in prison.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

95

99

PA

Jul 23, 2004

#7

• Jul 23, 2004

• #7

Take a look at this for the ultimate rear suspension package www.teamzmotorsports.net

With a anti-roll bar you need to use springs in the rear with the same rating, stock work perfect, you can run deep in the 8's with the them

Front coil overs, Strange Adj struts, caster camber plates

Rear, Strange adj shocks, TQ box enforcements

 

9

9 Deuce GT

Member

Dec 10, 2003

550

1

16

Geneva, NY

Jul 24, 2004

#8

• Jul 24, 2004

• #8

I'd scrap the X2C anything, sounds like junk to me. Go with a good brand, MM or equvilent.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

95

99

PA

Jul 24, 2004

#9

• Jul 24, 2004

• #9

There are a lot of guys running the X2C arms with no issues

 

ironmedic

New Member

Mar 18, 2003

1,361

0

0

Puyallup, WA

Jul 24, 2004

#10

• Jul 24, 2004

• #10

i have what u see in my sig

i tell u this much, i hook great on the street! gotta see how it goes on the track

 

QDRHRSE

New Member

Dec 31, 2002

1,590

0

0

Palmdale, CA

Jul 24, 2004

#11

• Jul 24, 2004

• #11

I would get the D&D standard arms because they are stronger than X2C's and have Delrin bushings- much better. Also, if you are planning on 70/30's you may as well get 90/10's. The Eibach lanch kit is really good but on most cars the front will sit at least 1" higher. D&D subframes are good too and very inexpesive.

 

N

nightrider50

Member

Aug 28, 2003

186

0

17

California

Jul 24, 2004

#12

• Jul 24, 2004

• #12

whats the website for D&D?
Hey Ironmedic did your front end go up 1"? do u think the drag launch springs are worth it? i could always cut them in the front right?

 

H

Hugger1974

Member

Jan 31, 2004

56

0

6

Jul 26, 2004

#13

• Jul 26, 2004

• #13

nightrider50 said:

whats the website for D&D?
Hey Ironmedic did your front end go up 1"? do u think the drag launch springs are worth it? i could always cut them in the front right?

Click to expand...

My car sits level with the Eibach drag springs, it sits at a good height.

 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master

Nov 29, 1999

9,692

95

99

PA

Jul 27, 2004

#14

• Jul 27, 2004

• #14

The Eibach Drag kit lowered my car atleast 1.25" all around, it made it hard to get a jack under the car.

What ever you do, DO NOT CUT THE SPRINGS they are not designed to be cut and you will lose the engineering behind them.

 

E

evn_05

Member

Apr 16, 2003

76

0

7

central illinois

Jul 27, 2004

#15

• Jul 27, 2004

• #15

Hey QDRHRSE I have the same D&D lowers and I am not sure if they even did anything different. How do you like yours??? I took off the quads and have no wheel hop, but didnt before anyway. I also got 3.73 gears at the same time and now I am having lots of noise from the rear. I am pretty sure it is coming from the drive shaft. We had the car on jackstands and in gear and it was howling something fierece. I could use new U joints they arent bad, just a little dry. Can this cause them to squeak. This seriously sucks, it makes my car sound like a P.O.S.

Oh Rick I think I saw you running saturday at Joilet. I hate to say it but I think that you were eliminated the round I saw. How did you do up there last weekend. I didnt really watch all that much of the racing, my dads back was actin up and he wanted to leave. It was a pretty cool time anyway.

 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2002

2,773

17

89

Dallas, GA

Jul 28, 2004

#16

• Jul 28, 2004

• #16

He's talking about a HS budget here. First of all, you need some Drag Radial tires or better. After that I bet this setup would get results but would cost little, how about:

Boxed stock controll arms with poly bushings >$100
4 cylinder front springs from junkyard >$50
Lakewood 90/10 and 50/50's $260
Front swaybar delete $0

I would stay away from these cheapo brands. The usually are just rip-offs of the real thing. They might look the same for alot less, but I am sure they arn't the same. Do you think that 6 year old in the sweatshop is going to do the quality work?

 

H

Hugger1974

Member

Jan 31, 2004

56

0

6

Jul 28, 2004

#17

• Jul 28, 2004

• #17

90mustangGT said:

Do you think that 6 year old in the sweatshop is going to do the quality work?

Click to expand...

I guess your talking about the china made stuff...that stuff scares me. I have seen a lot of smaller US shops putting out some good top quality parts

 

QDRHRSE

New Member

Dec 31, 2002

1,590

0

0

Palmdale, CA

Jul 28, 2004

#18

• Jul 28, 2004

• #18

Hugger1974 said:

My car sits level with the Eibach drag springs, it sits at a good height.

Click to expand...

For D&D stuff go to www.stangparts.org . Actually thats Brandt racing enterprises. Gary will take care of you.

 

ironmedic

New Member

Mar 18, 2003

1,361

0

0

Puyallup, WA

Jul 28, 2004

#19

• Jul 28, 2004

• #19

i couldnt get the front springs in for the life of me so i HAD to cut my top ring off. i tried for hours and it wasnt working so i had to cut it. it still sat at my original height though, no problems.