swaping intake tomorrow, question

[legalize420]

where do you put the silicone when you put the new lower on?

 

[nmcgrawj]

I put 2 beads on top of each other across the valley in the front and back. I also put a REALLY small amount around the coolant ports. I run my finger over it so its not a lot...just a tad bit enough to ensure proper seal. Its probably not even needed but i worry about leaks and stuff. Oh yea, get some studs to put in the 4 corners of the lower to help you guide it on. Then put the bolts in and take the studs out as u get to them. That was a great tip i got from one of David(5speed) in one of his many write up's.

 

[legalize420]

I put 2 beads on top of each other across the valley in the front and back. I also put a REALLY small amount around the coolant ports. I run my finger over it so its not a lot...just a tad bit enough to ensure proper seal. Its probably not even needed but i worry about leaks and stuff. Oh yea, get some studs to put in the 4 corners of the lower to help you guide it on. Then put the bolts in and take the studs out as u get to them. That was a great tip i got from one of David(5speed) in one of his many write up's.

what kind of silicone i should use. as fas as the silicone i know there are different colors. is it just a difference in color or is it a different strength?

 

[cavscout371]

I think I used ultra black.

 

[jmoore16]

Correct Silicone

You have four choices from Permatex:

Ultra Copper - 24 Hour Cure - 700 deg F intermittent
Ultra Black - 24 Hour Cure - 625 deg F int.
The Right Stuff - 1 Minute Cure - 500 deg F int.
Sensor Safe Blue RTV - 24 Hour Cure - 500 deg F int.

The website (www.permatex.com) also lists Ultra Grey bu tI have never seen it for sale and never used it.

Ultra Copper works the best but you have to wait 24 hours. Ultra Black is almost as good so this is what I always use since it looks better. I have never needed the extra 75 degrees and I put two or three intakes on road race engines each year...

The Right Stuff is expensive but works great if you need to get to work in 10 minutes

Hope this helps...

John

 

[legalize420]

i just got the black. so all i have to do is put some on the front and back and let the gaskets do the rest? what are the blue rubber pieces that came with the intake gasket kit?

 

[urban96]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=3067442&postcount=3

 

[legalize420]

http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=3067442&postcount=3

thanks, one thing and correct me if i am wrong but did that say you should not use the rubber seals that came in the gasket kit and to just use the silicone?

 

[urban96]

thanks, one thing and correct me if i am wrong but did that say you should not use the rubber seals that came in the gasket kit and to just use the silicone?

i didnt use the rubber gaskets, just ran a thick bead of black RTV across the front and back. you can either do that or use a little RTV in each corner to connect the rubber to the gaskets

 

[legalize420]

well i ended up starting it today. i have all the bolts out of the lower but im having problems with the hoses to the heater tube whatever its called. also i cant get the dizzy out. hard to get in there and try to turn.any suggestions

 

[legalize420]

btw,the lower is moving freely, its just attached by the hoses

 

[jmoore16]

Getting hoses loose

Without scratching it up too much, try to slide a small screwdriver in between the hose and the tube that the hose fits over. You aren't trying to pry it off, just breaking the seal. After you work the screwdriver all (or most as something will be in the way) the way around, try to remove the hose. It should be alot easier.

Another way to break the seal is to take a big pair of channel lock pliers and twist the hose to break the seal. It will come off.

By the way, put new heater hoses on now. Saves you the effort later since you will have to take them off now anyways.

John

 

[Road_Runna]

where do you put the silicone when you put the new lower on?

On the back and front of the block, if you are using Felpro gaskets, then those are dry gaskets, but the seals (block not the heads) will need some RTV...

I just reinstalled mine, and only put the RTV on the seals, along with the rubber seals Felpro provides.

 

[cavscout371]

well i ended up starting it today. i have all the bolts out of the lower but im having problems with the hoses to the heater tube whatever its called. also i cant get the dizzy out. hard to get in there and try to turn.any suggestions

Dizzy wrench helps tremendously to get the retainer off after that it should come right out with a little turning and some elbow grease (if that O-ring is being a pain in the @$$).

I had to cut my hoses (didnt matter I bypassed heater) so I wont be of any help there

 

[legalize420]

got the dizzy out. lower is off. i think im done for tonight. i will start again in the morning. its pretty nasty in there(under the lower). how well do i have to clean it up. does it have to be spotless.

 

[jmoore16]

How clean?

Get it as clean as you can and then clean it for another two hours. A tip before you start cleaning...

Stuff three paper towels in each intake and exhaust passage. When you are done cleaning, pull the paper towels out and the passages will be clean.

John

 

[legalize420]

Get it as clean as you can and then clean it for another two hours. A tip before you start cleaning...

Stuff three paper towels in each intake and exhaust passage. When you are done cleaning, pull the paper towels out and the passages will be clean.

John

perfect, thanks. i am done for tonight but i will go do that and get to cleaing and instaling tomorrow. once again thanks for everybodys input

 

[legalize420]

i just pulled the old water neck thermostat housing whatever is called and the thermostat came flying out. which way does it go back in for when i do it tomorrow. does the side with the spring face the front of the car? also, when putting the housing on the new intake do you need to seal it.i have the gasket,do i need to put anything else on there. it seems like there was some kind of sealer on there before.

 

[jmoore16]

Orientation of the thermostat

The spring side of the thermostat should be inside the manifold pointing toward the engine.

Yes, you do need to seal it. I use Ultra Black spread thinly on both sides of the paper gasket just to make sure that it seals. Also make sure that you seal around the bypass (the hole in the gasket about the size of a dime).

Good luck...

John

 

[bimmertech]

i really don't like to use any types of room temp vulc on my car or at work. i prefer any type of anaroebic sealer(made by permatex) it seals better and last longer. just my experiences.