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Switching out bellhousings (aluminum to steel)

  • Thread starter Thread starter fasttback
  • Start date Start date Aug 24, 2006

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
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0
Northern CA
Aug 24, 2006
#1
  • Aug 24, 2006
  • #1
I'm switching out my stock toploader bellhousing for a Lakewood steel bellhousing. This is a 1966 289 motor with a z-bar linkage setup.

Is this an easy swap over or will I have issues with the linkage and/or clutch fork? Anything else I should look out for?
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Aug 25, 2006
#2
  • Aug 25, 2006
  • #2
ok a few things about the swap;

1: there is a large tolerance in the bolt holes, and the locating holes in the bellhousing, so you need a dial indicator and base so you can center the bellhousing to the block.

2: you will need a welder to add the locating shims to the bellhousing.

3: you may need to grind on the bellhousing flange to clear the exhaust system and clutch linkage.

as you can see this is not a bolt in swap. take your time in centering the bell otherwise you will have vibration problems, and will wear out bearings and clutchs fairly quickly.
 
6

68RCodeConv

New Member
Oct 2, 2003
345
0
0
Houston, TX
Aug 25, 2006
#3
  • Aug 25, 2006
  • #3
I put a McCleod scattershield in my 67 GT350 and kept the Z-bar. Had to cut a V-shaped chunk out of the scattershield to get clearance for the lower clutch rod. I also had my engine builder center the scattershield for me. There were some offset dowels that came with the scattershield that he used to center it. I was able to use the stock clutch arm but I had to install a fulcrum inside the bellhousing for it to pivot on.

While I was at it I had roller bearings put in the clutch pedal support (Mustang Steve, $85) and had Opentracker make me some Heim-jointed upper and lower clutch rods. Clutch action is really, really smooth.
 
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