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Tail pipes would hit valence...Am I forced to use turn downs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter garystocker
  • Start date Start date Jun 12, 2008

garystocker

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Jun 12, 2008
#1
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #1
I had a 2" dual exhaust system installed with flowmaster mufflers. The h pipe and tailpipes are stock dimensions. I have the stock rear valence with no cut-outs. The exhaust pipes stop just before the valence and would hit it if I attempted to mount strait tailpipes.

I have seen strait pipes on many cars come under the valence and stick out a bit. (This is what I would like)

But the mechanic put reducer 45 degree pieces instead of tailpipes that end before the valence. I smelled exhaust, so I extended them with chrome tips.

Now the openings really look small in diameter. I have even received comments at Carlisle recently on how small they look.

So...putting real turn downs on the pipes and losing those stupid 45 degree reducer fittings will make a true 2" exit for the exhaust but I fear I will smell exhaust again if I allow it to exit before and under the valence.

Is that my only route? What could I do to make a nice under-valence-strait-tailpipe connect to my installed over-the-axle pipes (that seem too high) without having to cut my valence?
 

garystocker

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Jun 12, 2008
#2
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #2
Also, Would it be wise to have an exhaust shop fabricate something for it? It seems like that would be expensive, and I might wind up with something I don't want!
 

Tim65GT

Active Member
Feb 24, 2004
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39
West Texas
Jun 12, 2008
#3
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #3
I have the Flowmaster Exhaust System on my GT, and they came with the polished stainless straight tips (2 1/2"). They were made for non-GT cars though, and I wanted them to exit through the holes in the GT valence. I had a shop do that part for me and add some nice 3" tips. If I had a regular valance, I thought the Flowmaster tips looked good and would have kept it that way. The only issue would be if your car sits low, they may be susceptible to damage on steep drives or ramps.
 
6

68EFIvert

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Camas, Washington
Jun 12, 2008
#4
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #4
Did you buy an off the shelf exhaust kit or did the exhaust shop custom make one. If they made it take it back to them and ask them to fix the problem. If you purchased an off the shelf kit you may have to have the exhaust shop reroute the tailpipes to the position you want them. Some times it cost money to look cool. How cool do you want to look is the question.
 

garystocker

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Jun 12, 2008
#5
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #5
It was an off-the-shelf system from Mustang's Unlimited.

If you think the shop is the way to go I'll probably go that route. I really don't want to smell exhaust and I want to see the pipes, and I want them big.

What do you think that would cost?

Thanks
 
6

68EFIvert

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Camas, Washington
Jun 12, 2008
#6
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #6
They may be able to just bend the pipes to do what you want. If that is the case it shouldn't be too much. If they have to redo the tailpipes that will be a little more. I had my whole exhaust custome made with 2 1/2" tube for $300 (less the cost of mufflers). I would assume it would be in the neighborhood of $100-$150 to redo the tail pipes. That assumes you have exhause where the mufflers are under the seat. If you have an exhaust where the mufflers are behind the rear end it may be cheaper than that.

I am in the process of having my tail pipes redone as well. I added a coil over rear suspension to my car so the original exhaust won't work. I plan on it costing about $150 for my setup.
 
T

tweet66

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Pennsauken, NJ
Jun 12, 2008
#7
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #7
I originally had Flowmaster 2.5" tailpipes on my 66 but recently switched to Pypes 2.5" tailpipes. The flows sat down below the valance with chrome tips. The Pypes come out where GT pipes would exit threw the valance. I cut them short and will probably notch the valance similar to a 67 GT panel. I'm leary about cutting a painted panel but I don't want turndowns and I didn't like the pipes coming out so far below the valance before.
 

garystocker

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New Jersey
Jun 12, 2008
#8
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #8
If I do cut my valence like the 67 (I like that look) then how do you do that well? What do I use to cut it?

I really wanted to make room for some 67 Shelby tips I have that were really expensive, and really big!
 

carefact0rzero

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Mar 17, 2008
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columbia, sc
Jun 12, 2008
#9
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #9
i had the same problem with my setup, had an exhaust shop extend them below the valance, only cost around $120-ish. looks real nice.
 
T

tweet66

Founding Member
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Pennsauken, NJ
Jun 12, 2008
#10
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #10
garystocker said:
If I do cut my valence like the 67 (I like that look) then how do you do that well? What do I use to cut it?
Click to expand...

I'm going to use an air powered reciprocating saw with a fine tooth blade and lots of masking take to protect the surface. Hopefully that'll minimize any paint damage. worst case I take a spare valance and cut it an paint it to match. Still have 2 unopened quarts of paint left from 12 years ago
 

garystocker

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Jun 12, 2008
#11
  • Jun 12, 2008
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That sounds good...

will you file the rough edges? How about a trim moulding? Will you do without one, fabricate one, or buy one and cut the valance to fit?
 

garystocker

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Jun 12, 2008
#12
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #12
I'm gonna hijack my own thread...

I would like to know if you guys feel extending the pipes below the valance is sufficient, or would you trim the valance before hitting the shop?

I am afraid of ruining the paint on the valance or ruining the valance by cutting wrong.
 

garystocker

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Jun 12, 2008
#13
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #13
Also, I'd wecome pics of your tailpipes, people. Bring them on!
 
T

tweet66

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Jun 12, 2008
#14
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #14
Hopefully with the right blade there won't be too much filling involved but I will clean it up. If the cuts come out well I'll mix up some paint and airbrush the edges so there's no bare metal. I actually have a spare old rear valance so I might mock it up and test cut that one. I was going to buy a 67 valance at Carlisle and cut and weld teh exhaust cutout onto a 65/66 valance but couldn't find one cheap enough to hack up.

By the way where are you in Jersey?
 

garystocker

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Jun 13, 2008
#15
  • Jun 13, 2008
  • #15
I am in riverton, near philia.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jun 13, 2008
#16
  • Jun 13, 2008
  • #16
The Magnaflow tips on my 67 come out under my valance just fine. I don't understand what you mechanic was doing with those reducers or what ever they are. He should have just bent some exhaust pipe to the correct angle to get your pipes out under the valance in the first place. Using reducers on a 2" system when you have a v8 is not a good idea. Irregular exhaust flow restriction = bad.
 
T

tweet66

Founding Member
May 19, 2001
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Pennsauken, NJ
Jun 13, 2008
#17
  • Jun 13, 2008
  • #17
garystocker said:
I am in riverton, near philia.
Click to expand...

Dude, your right up the road from me...I'm in Pennsauken.

You going to the Cooper River show tomorrow?
 

garystocker

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New Jersey
Jun 16, 2008
#18
  • Jun 16, 2008
  • #18
Tips are mounted. Check out Pics

I appreciate all the replies. Turns out the shop down the street worked the pipes from my existing 2" flowmaster system to accept the massive 3" 1967 Shelby tips under the valence.

The shop did it for $75 labor and in under an hour!
 

Attachments

  • shelby tips 004.webp
    40 KB · Views: 220
  • shelby tips 006.webp
    46.6 KB · Views: 203

garystocker

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Jun 16, 2008
#19
  • Jun 16, 2008
  • #19
I'm pretty happy with this result.

Here is a shot from behind. (Not on an angle)
 

Attachments

  • shelby tips 002.webp
    39.6 KB · Views: 231
6

68EFIvert

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Camas, Washington
Jun 16, 2008
#20
  • Jun 16, 2008
  • #20
Looks good to me and it loks like you got a good deal.
 
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