take a stock 5.0 with stock cam

one of my friends put an E cam in his motor with stock heads and intake and it did pull harder in higher RPMs but it lost some low end torque

his car dynoed 215rwhp with AOD

his mods were :EL headers, O/R hipe, 65mm tb, e303, smog/ac delete, CAI, 24lb injectors, and matching MAF (unknown size) and a few other misc. parts

The E cam was designed for FRPP by Crane cams. Here's what Crane recommends for that cam:

GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. (50 STATE LEGAL 85-93, C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-46) BASIC RPM 2400-6000

It's a terrible cam for an otherwise stock motor - and the B and F aren't any better. Bottom end torque is severely compromised, and valve float usually occurs before you can get up to any rpm where you might make more power.

If you're looking for a mild build up, try these steps:

1) Sub-frame connectors
2) 3.73 gears
3) Longtube headers (1.5" primaries preferably) and a 2.5" exhaust system w/high flow cats
4) Have tmoss port the stock lower intake manifold
5) Remove the stock airbox silencer in the fender, and add a drop in K&N panel air filter
6) Bump the timing up from 10 to 14 degrees btdc

Those changes will make a noticeable difference in performance without impacting drivability (it may improve) or having a significant negative impact on fuel mileage, and you'll still pass emissions.

The stock cam is a good piece - many people out there running solidly in the 12's with the stock cam in a naturally aspirated application.

The stock cam on the street will feel a LOT better. The low end torque is what will make the car feel good. If it were up to me, Id rather degree a stock cam, then go with an aftermarket on a stock or near stock motor! A custom cam will help power wise, but again the feel will be better on the street with a stocker!

I have a bcam on my otherwise stock shortblock (stock intake and heads) I threw it in there because the timing chain needed to be replaced and I got the cam new for 100 bucks... I figured since I was going to replace the heads and intake eventually I might as well throw in the cam I want while I'm in the area. I had the car dynoed a while back and I made 215.2 and 279.7 rwhp and rwtq With a dirty MAF. My torque is above 225 from 1600 rpm until almost 5000 with a peak @ 3100 to 3800 where it's above 275. Horsepower tops 200 @ 3800 and stays pretty flat until 5100 or so where it begins to dip back down below 200. I would guess with better flowing heads and intake the curve would keep rising to approx. 275 @ 5000... Not bad for a mild cam... I just recently went to Kennedale and ran my car in the 1/8th. Since I had never raced my car before (at the track) I was completely lost and staged without a number so I don't have a timeslip to back this up but I'm pretty sure I ran a 9.2 @ 77? After that I ran a 9.404 @76.11mph. This is with a 2.198 60' and granny shifting. I have since practiced my shifting and hope to head back to the track tommorow if the weather holds to see if I can dip into the 8's... The above run was done on an exceptionally hot night and if I remember it was mid to lower 90's and I was sweating like a pig in my car waiting for my turn to race, so I imagine it was quite humid as well. I figure that is about as good a benchmark as you're going to get on an alphabet cam as possible and I hope this helps your question. Supporting mods are in my sig...

25thmustang said:

The stock cam on the street will feel a LOT better. The low end torque is what will make the car feel good. If it were up to me, Id rather degree a stock cam, then go with an aftermarket on a stock or near stock motor! A custom cam will help power wise, but again the feel will be better on the street with a stocker!

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do not put an e303 cam in a stock motor, you will regret it. i have it in a decent built motor with no complaints except 2. the idle sucks unless you turn it up some, about 900rpms is what mine is setting on because every time you kick the clutch in, the car would go dead. and if you are running an automatic, you have to get a really loose convertor to make any power with this cam, trust me, i know from personal experience here, i had a c-4 in my car when i first built my motor, it was mainly for drag racing, not street driving, now there is a 5 speed back in the car but anyway, i started with a 2500 stall convertor and i was pissed, after all the motor work and switching to c-4, the car actually didn't have the power it had stock and 5 speed, it had the power but it wasn't there, i ran consistent 8.60's stock with equal length shorty headers and exhaust and 3.55 gears with a 5 speed in the 1/8 mile. after building my motor, heads, cam intake, throttle body mass air injectors fuel pump and c-4, it ran 8.40's, i was so pissed. so after some long thinking and looking at my fuel pressure guage, my regulator wasn't working, so i replaced that, only to go the next week and run an 8.39, so it wasn't that. so i switched to a 4400 stall convertor and wow, 8.16 first pass on g-60 m&h's, and by the end of that day, i had tuned it enough to run 8.12. the e cam is a good cam, for what it is recommended for, a 5 speed car with aftermarket goodies, or an automatic car with a high stall speed convertor. but it will not perform in a stock motor worth a crap.

im going to be building a stock bottem end motor with ported stock heads or gt40 heads and will be putting the b or e cam in also. thumper actually recommended both of those cams after i explained what i wanted. he said the advance them both 4 degrees or keep the stocker and advance it 4 degrees as well. so i still havent decided which one im going to be but it will either be the b or just keep the stocker.

so what i get from this is that you shouldnt put a after market cam on a stock motor. what bout if i put a aftermarket intake? will it be ok to put a say tfs 1 cam?

Why waste your time with a cam on your setup when there's other things that will make a bigger difference, like gears, shift kit and converter. I still have stock cam, heads, and intake, and I can break 12's easily if I threw on some drag radials. And yes, mine is an automatic. A bigger cam may hurt you, but gears or a converter will help you. Start doing a little research and you will find out some people have broke the 10's with stock H/I/C.....

1.7RR would be a better mod with stock heads , wont see much but more so than with the cam swap ....the killer on the cam is the lift will be too high for the stock springs on the heads ,and the duration being longer holding the valve open longer will allow way more flow than the heads can even think about .......the rockers will just give you a tad more lift and leave the duration alone so you wont loose any bottom end torque but you will hopefully pick the HP up in the upper rpms , I wouldnt even do that though unless you do a tmoss ported intake swap ....that with the rockers should be a solid improvement with no torque loss

ramjetlx, are you on something? nobody has broken into the 10's with a STOCK cam intake and heads, and I think that is safe to say, there is no way for the factory pieces to flow that good, maybe with extensive porting and polishing, but not factory stock, c mon man, don't give this guy false hope. yes there are other mods out there that will benefit him greatly, more so than just a cam, but even with all the mods he can find, it is highly unlikely that he, or anybody else can see 10's out of the factory stuff. unless of course there is one hell of a small block bottom end built, and even then, i don't think so. best mods for an AOD are 4.10-4.30 gears, with the overdrive it's still not that bad, i had 4.30's with a c-4, get a good stall convertor, if running a stock cam, about 2500-3000 stall is all that is needed, get a good set of cheater slicks and work on the suspension and 12's are easily attainable even with stock pieces, you will have to work on the launch rpm and shifting rpm some, but it will still run fine. and yes the 1.72 roller rockers really do help on a stock cam, i had them before switching to the e303.

RedCoupe92 said:

ramjetlx, are you on something? nobody has broken into the 10's with a STOCK cam intake and heads, and I think that is safe to say, there is no way for the factory pieces to flow that good, maybe with extensive porting and polishing, but not factory stock, c mon man, don't give this guy false hope. yes there are other mods out there that will benefit him greatly, more so than just a cam, but even with all the mods he can find, it is highly unlikely that he, or anybody else can see 10's out of the factory stuff. unless of course there is one hell of a small block bottom end built, and even then, i don't think so. best mods for an AOD are 4.10-4.30 gears, with the overdrive it's still not that bad, i had 4.30's with a c-4, get a good stall convertor, if running a stock cam, about 2500-3000 stall is all that is needed, get a good set of cheater slicks and work on the suspension and 12's are easily attainable even with stock pieces, you will have to work on the launch rpm and shifting rpm some, but it will still run fine. and yes the 1.72 roller rockers really do help on a stock cam, i had them before switching to the e303.

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damn thats interesting 12s with stock h/c/i i have a AOD