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TCP manual rack and pinion vs. manual steering rebuild

  • Thread starter Thread starter MikeRey
  • Start date Start date Jun 4, 2007
M

MikeRey

New Member
Sep 4, 2005
6
0
0
Jun 4, 2007
#1
  • Jun 4, 2007
  • #1
I've got a 66 Mustang. Some of you may have seen a couple of the threads I've posted in. The first three things I am doing to my car are replacing every Suspension component, steering component, and brake component. I am still in the research stage, but will probably start to order the stuff later this week. My original plan was to just replace every stock manual steering part in the car, but later realized that is going to cost me just as much as a rack and pinion. The TCP manual rack and pinion caught my eye. I want to keep the car with manual steering. This car replaces just about every component dealing with power steering, save tie rod ends, correct? Steering box, center link, ect. ect. That is my main question. Also, what else is required, or would you recommend getting while running the manual rack? The second question is, I plan on running Baer brakes with this settup. I should have no problem running these two things with each other. Thanks for the clarification.
 

fvike

Member
Aug 24, 2004
335
0
16
Mosjøen, Norway
Jun 4, 2007
#2
  • Jun 4, 2007
  • #2
Mike, intressing project you got going on! Keep us updated! And :Track:

I've got the Power TCP Rack, and I'm very satisfied with it. It's worth every penny. It replaces the bottom center brace in the car, and becomes part of the bearing structure. It's very easy to install, and has will clear all headers because of it's forward mounting position. It comes with everything you need except the tie-rods.

As for running Baer brakes, they do not interfere with the R&P. I've just installed Wilwood 13" front brakes myself, and no issues. Haven't driven the car yet with them, but lock to lock turning does cause any interference.
 
G

gsxrken

Member
Sep 12, 2005
206
1
18
Weschester County, NY
Jun 5, 2007
#3
  • Jun 5, 2007
  • #3
Yes, the rack replaces that stuff. Saves some weight in the process. Get the Baer bumpsteer kit instead of buying new outside tie rods, and learn how and why to install it. Consider a Shelby/Cobra/Moto-Lita or aftermarket steering wheel with at least a 15” diameter for better leverage. You’ll need 17” rims to clear the large brakes- but with tires don’t go wider then 225s with the manual rack. Before you buy rims, watch your backspace needs if the brakes alter your offset at all.
I’d also recommend doing the Arning 1” UCA drop and adding roller perches to the car during your suspension rebuild.
 
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