TDC- Exhaust or Compression stroke?

red94fiveo

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Apr 12, 2003

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Wichita, KS

Jan 25, 2004

#1

• Jan 25, 2004

• #1

Ok, here's my problem. I am removing everything for my headswap and ran into a problem today. The heads, intake, balancer and timing cover are off. I was going to remove the timing chain and consulted my Haynes manual which said I need to be a TDC (compression stroke) on the #1 piston to do this. Only prob is I had already removed the distributor to get my intake out and the position got moved so I can't tell compression/exhaust stroke from dist. position. I can get the crank key and new balancer lined up to 0 deg. no problem, so how do I tell whether i'm on the exhaust or compression stroke when I do this? Hope that all makes sense. Thanks.

 

S

stangin it

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Sep 25, 2002

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Long Island, NY

Jan 25, 2004

#2

• Jan 25, 2004

• #2

Dont worry about it once you get the heads back on turn the crank, with your finger over spark plug hole cyl#1 when you feel air come out your at TDC of the compression stroke.

 

RIO5.0

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Feb 16, 2001

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Jan 25, 2004

#3

• Jan 25, 2004

• #3

What he said...another way to verify that is to check the balancer is at 0, if your valves have been adjusted, then look at #1 cylinders valves....they should both be closed...

 

red94fiveo

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Apr 12, 2003

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Jan 26, 2004

#4

• Jan 26, 2004

• #4

So I take it I'm OK to take the timing chain and cam off then.....

 

RIO5.0

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Jan 26, 2004

#5

• Jan 26, 2004

• #5

Yup...tear into it...when you install the cam..i believe its dowel pin down, timing mark on the cam gear at 6:00...crank timing mark at 12:00, thats a "dot to dot" set-up, no adv or retard....that'll put #1 back on TDC....#1 should be at the top of the hole when all is said and done with this portion...
You'll be rolling the motor over and such for setting the valvetrain, when done, then you do the "finger" trick and balancer at 0...drop the dizzy in at approx 12:00, it should rotate over some and be over #1 when you place the cap on...you should be good to go...

 

red94fiveo

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Apr 12, 2003

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Jan 26, 2004

#6

• Jan 26, 2004

• #6

Thanks Rio, this cam install is one thing I'm nervous about. I don't wanna F up and drop a couple valves of ruin my brand new AFR's.

 

RIO5.0

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Feb 16, 2001

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Jan 26, 2004

#7

• Jan 26, 2004

• #7

couple things....

be careful sliding the old cam out and the new in...don't want to nick the bearings..thats the tuff part...from there its just reassy...

Get a good balancer if you don't have one...

your not gonna drop valves unless something loose, like a keeper pops out or some freak thing breaks, trust me on the freak thing...I been there... freak chit does happen...

Clay your pistons and check your PV clearance...its on a stand, you got all kinds of time to do it....put some clay on top of the piston, put the head on and lightly tighten, no gasket...adjust like #1, int/ex valves...roll the motor SLOWLY couple times around...pull the head, check your clay....ADD the thickness of the head gasket your gonna use to the "impression"...done deal...if the numbers are plenty, you'll have no problems....and peace of mind...don't clay em, then youll be wondering??? unless you know the set-up produces correct PV clearance...its really not that hard to check...its good practice, and dry running the assy is always good to do anyway...

Your freakin out already.. ....Its not all that bad....

 

red94fiveo

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Apr 12, 2003

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Wichita, KS

Jan 26, 2004

#8

• Jan 26, 2004

• #8

I just picked up a Romac balancer so that shouldn't be a problem. I think the only reason I'm so worried about this is because its the most money I've spent on the car other than the cost of the car itself. But thanks a bunch for the help, I'm a lot more confident now.

 

9

94DreamGT

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Jul 19, 2000

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Indiana

Jan 26, 2004

#9

• Jan 26, 2004

• #9

Remember that you can't use a regular hydraulic lifter when claying the pistons checkin for P to V clearance. With the motor dry, the motor will not have the sufficient oil pressure to keep the lifter from collapsing. Remedy this by using a solid lifter or modifying the lifter internally so it doesn't collapse.

Otherwise you P to V thickness is inaccurate and you're left wondering again.

 

RIO5.0

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Jan 26, 2004

#10

• Jan 26, 2004

• #10

Good point, forgot about that... I made myself a set of solid lifters for that..i bought a new set of lifters for the rebuild...

 

red94fiveo

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Jan 27, 2004

#11

• Jan 27, 2004

• #11

How can I make myself a solid lifter? I think the stock lifters are about the only thing I am reusing so I can't modify one of those.

BTW- The cam is out, thanks Rio. It was really pretty painless and I think I am pretty confident about putting the new one in.

 

RIO5.0

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Jan 27, 2004

#12

• Jan 27, 2004

• #12

Make a solid lifter....go to a salvage yard or a bud who may have one hanging around...remove the clip on top of the lifter, remove and save the top piece...a spring and ball bearing will come out from under the top. now find some washers the same dia to fit inside the lifter, stack them up til you can fit the "TOP" back in and still install the clip...done..you have a solid lifter...
make sure you washers are the "same" thickness, within reason for both of em....file them down if needed to sneak the "top" back in under that clip...it tit to do, nothing hard about it...

if your in a bind, i have some i can send out....i have a set already made..PM me if your in a jam, i can have them out UPS in the A.M....how long til you need em?? you doing the re-assy right now??

 

red94fiveo

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Apr 12, 2003

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Wichita, KS

Jan 27, 2004

#13

• Jan 27, 2004

• #13

No I'm not in a huge time crunch, I'm still waiting on my cam from Ed Curtis, but it should be here soon, so now I have somthing to do in the meantime. I got everything taken out so I would be ready to go when my stuff did get here, plus I wanted to polish and paint a lot of stuff that I took off, and I guess I just got a little anxious. I just go track one down from a junkyard. Thanks for the help.

 

RIO5.0

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Jan 27, 2004

#14

• Jan 27, 2004

• #14

Track down 2..you wanna do both int/exh in one shot...