Tearing Apart 4.6 For Repairs... Mod Suggestions Anyone??

[slick35thgt]

Due to recent misfortune, I have a rod bearing that is on its way out, so it is time to jerk the 4.6 out for an overhaul. While I have it out, I have decided to go ahead and do a few things to get a little more performance out of it.

I'm kind of on a budget, as the bearing failure was certainly not planned. I don't need a full-on best of the best "race-car", but I'd like to add a couple things to definately up the SOTP feel while driving, and show in my time-slips as well. (Car currently runs a 9.06 1/8th mile)

I'm not really sure what the best bang for the buck would be internally, so I'm going to hand this question over to you guys. The car is currently bone stock aside from free-er flowing exhaust. Let's hear some suggestions and prices here.

 

[Winters98GT]

You probably need to state you budget, an ET goals.

 

[d98gt]

Well I learned the hard way that its the small things that add up when going in the block I suggest you go with new bearings, new rings, all new gaskets and bolts (required since tty). You might check local websites and ebay to see if you can score a nice set of rods (I basically stole the rods that I got) and pistons. They won't make power, but if a deal can be found it would be a great time to do so.

How much money are you looking to spend? I suggest you price all the new items that you NEED then report back with what is left over. This is a wonderful time to buy new parts such as oil/water pump and other cheap parts that COULD fail with age since the vehicle is ten years old.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Unless you've got money put asside for a power adder and/or some serious head and cam work, just put it back together the way it came and call it a day. Adding forged internals to a basically stock engine is going to cost your power, rather than improve it.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

I agree just repair it and get it back together and running again.

If I did anything I would look into a windage tray but I think there may already be one in there...?

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

throw a good oil pump in there and arp everything.

 

[nickmckinney]

Stock take out 4V rods and pistons with a set of good cams will really wake it up. Notch the pistons and I have done over 300RWHP this way on the cheap.

 

[ninjastang125]

I'm with nick on this one that's what I'm running right now. My cams are going in next week and can't wait

 

[PBullitt3255]

Hey guys, I was actually thinking about the same thing, except my engine has rod knock, but will be taking it out to bring to a machine shop. I was going to put in forged internals so in the future I could turbo.super it one day. Is that not a good idea?

 

[nickmckinney]

Low compression without boost makes for a serious dog of a motor. The difference between 9:1 and 12:1 is a bit over 10% HP at the rear tires. These motors run fine at 12:1 with a decent set of cams.

 

[slick35thgt]

Ok, I'm not looking for anything major, while the car is essentially my pretty day car, and I hit up the track a few times a year, I'm not looking for much, honestly. I'm just looking to do a few things that will make sure to give me an edge over most cars. The car was already a strong running ride in stock form, running consistent 9.0's stock, whereas the closest stock 99-04 in my area runs 9.3's.

Maybe I should look into bolt-ons first though (longtubes, etc.). Since this was certainly unplanned, my budget isnt going to be too much, and I can't give an exact number because a lot of this money for the build will have to be pulled out of my ***, so to speak.

Currently though, here's is needed. After I get the motor pulled, I'm going to go ahead and throw in all new crank and rod bearings, a new oil pump(might as well since its gna be right there, as well as oil pan gaskets and other odds and ends associated with the rebuild. I'm not going to tear into the top end, as it ran just fine before and even with the knocking issue I have right now, the car doesnt leak oil or smoke. On top of that, it holds excellent oil pressure still, and runs flawlessly. If I were deaf I wouldnt be able to detect any issues with it.

Crank kit with the crank and all the bearings I need, I priced at around 260 bucks. New oil pump is 85. Factor in gaskets, oil, and all that, and I'm looking at a cost of roughly 450-500 bucks, and that's being pretty generous, I feel. The totaly amount I'm looking to have to throw into the project is probably around 1000-1200. Soooo for arguments sake, let's say I have 600 bucks to play with. What would you guys do if you were me?

 

[Winters98GT]

LT's/cams is what I would suggest. Since you have the motor out and apart, those would the easiest to do.

 

[84Ttop]

Do your self a favor now, while the motor is out and put a tubular k member in the car! If your putting in Long tubes, you will thank yourself for sure!

 

[98COBRA281]

canton windage tray they claim like 10-15rwhp at 6000rpms, and only cost like $60 bucks, i have one..........

 

[98COBRA281]

canton windage tray they claim like 10-15rwhp at 6000rpms and only cost about $50-$60 bucks, i have one......

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

ill get one of those next week then, every hp counts lol

 

[98COBRA281]

ill get one of those next week then, every hp counts lol

not worth it unless the engine is out of the car, because the the oil pan needs to be removed, and it is innstalled between the block and oil pan.....

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

oh i have a couple engines in the garage chillin at the moment lol

and possibly going to pick up 2 more with 4r70w's.. deal is pretty good on em..

 

[393strokervert]

LT's/cams is what I would suggest. Since you have the motor out and apart, those would the easiest to do.

+1 & definently the best time to put in the LT's while the motor is out.

 

[slick35thgt]

Looks like I'm going to go with the main bolt-ons, and look into this windage tray. Cams would require me to tear into the top end and all the knick knacks of that will end up adding up. So it's looking like my best bet is to go ahead and get me some LT's and the windage tray (i'm going to have to google that, I'm gonna be honest haha), and while it is a mod I can do easily with the engine in, I might as well go ahead and spring for a CAI to go along with the free-er exhaust flow.

By the way, I meant to put this thread in the tech section, but I guess it worked just fine here too. I appreciate all the advice guys!

Btw, any suggestions on the best place to get the LT's? Any preferred brand's?