I guess there is not alot of guys willing to go high comp. with these motors. I noticed alot more tourque then hp but with cams and a better tune hope to be over 300 rwhp. I guess just like when you get good pass down the track and local 2v guys come and ask how much nitrous are you spraying, and you look at them and walk away.
As the old saying goes, horsepower is in the heads. Build the bottom end for reliability. Focus on blueprinting clearances, deburring, oil drainback and the like. If you've got the funds, go forged on the rods and pistons (go 0.020" overbore to help unshroud the valves some) but the OE parts can be reliable if you're not shooting for the moon power-wise. The crank is probably fine as is (assuming the journals and mains are okay) but if you foresee lots of RPM, find a forged part for this too. Watch the compression ratio. Although lots of guys run higher compression in 2Vs, the chamber design isn't great for deterring detonation so if you want high static compression, plan on a conservative tune and/or premium/race gas. As well, if you go high-compression normally aspirated, if you ever want to go FI in the future, you limit your options...
If you want power from the resulting stout shortblock, you're going to have to focus on airflow (i.e. the heads.) Port and bowl work (be careful...too much port work can slow airflow at low RPM causing a loss of low-RPM torque), valve sizes and seat angles, cams, headers and even an intake are what's going to give you power. You might think about Trickflow's twisted-wedge heads or port PI parts from the likes of Patriot (e.g.)
If you want power from the resulting stout shortblock, you're going to have to focus on airflow (i.e. the heads.) Port and bowl work (be careful...too much port work can slow airflow at low RPM causing a loss of low-RPM torque), valve sizes and seat angles, cams, headers and even an intake are what's going to give you power. You might think about Trickflow's twisted-wedge heads or port PI parts from the likes of Patriot (e.g.)
Well, basically my goals are pretty simple. I'm looking for a quick N/A street car, and my ET goals won't be difficult to reach at all I don't think.
With my only modifications being some exhaust work (factory intake, gears, car run at full weight on half tread 275 street tires) I managed to pull a 9.06s 1/8th mile with an embarassing 2.26s 60ft time. If I could get the car down into the 8.60 range, if not a little bit better, I'd be perfectly content.
In theory, I feel that CAI, longtubes, and a sticky tire would get me damn close, and if I still come up short, gears would help. Does anybody have any actual before/after timeslips from a gear swap that prove they help shave some time off? I know the seat of the pants feel is definately improved but does that translate well to the time slips?
With my only modifications being some exhaust work (factory intake, gears, car run at full weight on half tread 275 street tires) I managed to pull a 9.06s 1/8th mile with an embarassing 2.26s 60ft time. If I could get the car down into the 8.60 range, if not a little bit better, I'd be perfectly content.
In theory, I feel that CAI, longtubes, and a sticky tire would get me damn close, and if I still come up short, gears would help. Does anybody have any actual before/after timeslips from a gear swap that prove they help shave some time off? I know the seat of the pants feel is definately improved but does that translate well to the time slips?