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Here ya go, Aguilor, that link apparently hasnt' worked for awhile (reindeer is having problems with his page).

A simple cold air intake for your 2.3L Mustang-----
A cold air intake isn't that hard to make, and after my experimentation here and there with making an intake, I've finally found a design that works great, is easy to make, and is cheap. This intake will locate the filter in the inner fenderwell, right in front of the passenger side front wheel, however it will be safe from picking up water (unless you drive through a lake or something). It needs to be noted that this exact design WILL NOT WORK on mass-air cars ('91-93). It was performed on my '90 with speed-density, so will work on any speed density car exactly as I have it written here. However, if someone with a mass-air car can figure out a way to work the mass air sensor into this design, they could submit it to this page and help out some mass-air people J
What you will need to make this intake:

- A 5 foot long piece of 3" PVC pipe (white or black, your choice, the white is cheaper)
- One 3", 45* "street" elbow fitting with a flange at one end
- A flexible rubber coupling for this elbow
- One 3", 90* elbow fitting with flanges on both ends
- A K&N cone filter with a 3.5" flange (Jeg's part no. 599-RU-3130)
- PVC glue or super glue and some 3.5" hose clamps
- Some sort of insulation to cover the PVC in the engine bay; I used Thermo-Tec thermo shield tape (Summit part no. THE-14002) but you probably could use something like a Thermo-Tec Cool-It Mat (Part no. THE-14100)
- Note: If you have access to a garage, a floor jack, and some jack stands, it can make some parts of this installation MUCH easier. Later in the installation, when you need to test fit the pipe inside the fenderwell, having the car elevated makes it a lot easier to get the pipe up inside the fenderwell.

To get started, first you have to remove the old intake hose and airbox. This is easy to do, loosen the clamp closest to the intake pipe itself (not the clamp on the TB) and one of the clamps on the rubber boot on the airbox and pull the intake pipe free. Then, pull out the airbox after removing the bolts holding it down. You will notice now that there are three hoses connected to the airbox- two on top and one on the bottom. First, find the one on top that goes all the way back to the firewall (vacuum hose). Pull it off the airbox and tuck the end down by the inner fenderwell. Next, pull off the hose that runs between the airbox and the exhaust manifold heat shield. You can pull this hose off the heat shield too, if you want.

Now you're ready to start on the intake. First, measure off a piece of the PVC to approximately 15" long. (Note- when cutting this pipe, be sure to clean off all the plastic shavings before final installation onto the car. You don't want that stuff in your engine!) Cut this off, and slide the 45* degree fitting on the end of the pipe, making sure they are connected firmly. Test fit this in the engine bay and make sure it fits properly-the end of the pipe slips inside the rubber boot on the TB, and the 45* fitting needs to be aligned with the round hole in the inner fenderwell (right behind where the airbox was). Once you are satisfied that everything is the right length, get the rubber coupling. Loosen and remove the clamps and take out the tin piece wrapped around the rubber (if there is one). Slip the coupling onto the end of the fitting and make sure it's on as far as it will go, then make any necessary adjustments to the length of the main pipe so that the end of the coupling is flush with the round hole. Now, you can work on the rest of the intake. You'll need to cut two pieces of pipe-one about 4" long and another about 13". The purpose of the 4" piece is to go through the round hole in the firewall and connect the 45* and 90* fitting. The piece may need to be longer or shorter; I couldn't measure it exactly due to me forgetting to take measurements as I was building the intake. Fit the 13" piece and the 90* elbow together firmly, then slip the 4" piece in the other end of the fitting and push it in until it's snug. Test fit this by slipping it inside the fenderwell through the bottom (right in the corner, between the bottom of the front bumper and the plastic inner fender lining. If there isn't enough room to slip it up in, you'll need to trim away some of the plastic at the very front of the lining. Don't cut away too much, though, or you won't have anything to support the filter and you'll run a greater risk of water getting in the filter). Make sure you can get the end of the 4" piece through the round hole and slip it into the rubber coupling (it's kinda tough), and make sure there is a sufficient length of the pipe inside the coupling that it can be held in securely with the clamps. If everything fits good, then pull the pipe back out of the fenderwell and slip the filter on the end (don't tighten the clamp), and put it back up into the fenderwell to check the fit of things with the filter on the end. You may want to trim some off the end of the pipe so that there isn't so much of it inside the filter. If it looks like everything fits good, you're ready to move onto the final fitment.

To install the insulation, it will go one of two ways. If you use the mat, you should probably wait until the intake is completely installed, and then simply wrap the mat around any part of the intake that's inside the engine bay (including the rubber boot on the TB) and then secure it with two or three hose clamps or metal ties. If you use the tape, first remove the pipe from the engine bay, pull it apart, and remove the coupling from the fitting. If you wish to paint the fitting, now's the time to do it (you won't be able to see the pipe under the insulation). I painted mine black. Before painting, you'll probably want to thoroughly clean off the fitting with mineral spirits or else the paint won't stick too well; then you just use standard painting techniques. You should also clean the pipe with the solvent to aid adhesion of the tape. Once everything's dried sufficiently and the paint on the fitting is cured, connect the pipe and fitting again. When they are firmly and properly connected, put some super glue around the outside of the flange, where the pipe goes in (I used super glue and not PVC glue, so if you have some of that, read the package as to how you use it exactly). Applying the tape is easy, but the paper backing on the tape can be a pain in the butt. What I did was pull off fairly long sections of the tape, pull off the backing, and cut it off. Wrap the tape around the pipe, and wrap it towards the other end of the pipe (don't overlap the wraps). Once you wrap to the other end, wrap it back and be sure to cover any bare spots, and make sure you have insulation over the whole pipe, including the part inside the rubber boot on the TB (this was the part that softened and deformed on mine because I neglected to cover it). There should be plenty to cover the whole pipe as the roll is 15' long.
Now put the pipe back together, tighten the clamp on the rubber coupling on the fitting, and reinstall into the engine bay but don't tighten the clamp on the rubber boot. Before putting the other pipe back into the fenderwell, put some superglue around the flanges on the fitting to secure the pipes and make sure they won't come apart. Also make sure the clamp on the filter is facing toward the middle of the car so that you can tighten it down once you get the pipe inside the fenderwell. Slip the pipe back inside the fenderwell, and make sure the pipe is pointing as straight down as possible. Put the rubber coupling onto the end of the pipe once you get it through the hole, and tighten the clamp firmly so the pipe won't fall out. Then tighten the clamp on the boot on the TB. Now, reach up into the fenderwell and pull the filter down until it is against the plastic fender lining. Wedge it in tightly and hold it there while you tighten the clamp on the filter (you may have to use a "stubby" screwdriver and it is a little tough to get your arm in there). Once that's tightened down, voila, you're done. It's a good idea to check everything and make sure everything is good and tight, because you don't want this coming apart on you while you're driving.

Now you can go out and enjoy your new cold-air intake. You can feel the power increase, plus it makes your intake sound cool (if you have stock exhaust on your car, you can hear the intake outside the car). Total cost of this project is about $60, much cheaper than buying an intake from someone like KKM, plus this intake is insulated, which the KKM's are not. Only disadvantage is that this intake is not as pleasing to the eye (but who really cares about that, right?).

A couple notes: When the K&N is due for servicing, it can be easily removed for cleaning by loosening the clamp on the filter and sliding it up the pipe, then loosening the rubber coupling in the engine bay and removing the whole pipe from inside the fender well. Reinstallation is just a reverse of that. It's also a good idea to buy a K&N filter cleaning kit when you buy the filter, and follow the instructions on the box. I wouldn't recommend cleaning the filter any other way, as you are just more likely to damage the filter or wear it out before its time. Also, as I stated, this intake should be fine driving in rain, as there is really nothing to throw water up into it or anything. However, it would probably be a good idea to avoid large puddles or other such standing water because this COULD get in.

So there ya go, good luck and happy motoring!

Thought I'd add this....

Here's an easy way to add a fuel pressure gauge mounted directly on your fuel rail. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, it will make adjusting the fuel pressure much easier.

Parts you need, from Summit:

Fuel pressure gauge SUM-800160 (1 1/2" liquid filled gauge)
Adapter ATM-3280

This is a pretty easy job, really. First, get a 9mm deep socket and remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail. If you don't have a deep socket, you can use a regular wrench, but it takes forever. After you get it out, you have two options: You can either screw the gauge into the adapter, screw the whole assembly into the fuel rail, and tighten it with a wrench, or you can put in the adapter and tighten it with a socket, and then screw in the gauge. Honestly, I did it the first way, and I don't know which is easier (they're probably both about as hard as there isn't much room to work). Regardless, you need to put some pipe sealant on the threads of the adapter, and you will need a 9/16" wrench or socket to tighten it. Anyway that's about all there is to it...just make sure you tighten everything down good or it will leak fuel around the adapter!