Tell me if anything in my purchase looks bad .... Killer, RC get in here :)

[Joe 5.0]

Vortech S-trim Polished SQ kit
AFM Power Pipe
Walbro 255lph 'high capacity' fuel pump

That leaves me with about $600 worth of budget left. I am stuck on whether to get 42's and a lightning maf right now, or run it with the FMU and see how it works. It'd be REALLY nice to use that $600 towards a new clutch, because the one thats in there is toast. If I dont do the clutch now I am probably gonna have to wait a month or so more to afford it. What I also want to avoid is having to re-tune it 6 months from now if I decide that I want to go with the 42's & MAF. Is it neccesary to do so if I go with the injectores/MAF later?

Any other suggestions? I'm still stuck on what rear end to go with, and if I'll need an ignition off the bat.

 

[S/CBlack95GT]

The kit has the FMU and all so I would try that first, especially if you have 30# injectors or even 24s. Get plugs that are two ranges colder than stock and also get an ignition, it is damn near mandatory.

 

[Joe 5.0]

I still have the stock 19's and what plugs do most stock w/s-trim people use?

 

[S/CBlack95GT]

I still have the stock 19's and what plugs do most stock w/s-trim people use?

Well with your mods you could use the stock 19s with a 10:1 FMU or whatever the car likes on the dyno. I use Motorcraft 22C plugs with mine.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Do you have a tuning device? That's where the money needs to go. You will also need an ignition like MSD6BTM, blaster coil, plug wires. The stock injectors even with a FMU isn't going to cut it. I would change the MAF and injectors. Fuel on forced induction is a bad place to skimp out. Like I always say when someone buys a blower...The easy part is buying one the expensive part is the supporting hardware. That clutch is about to get worse. Add it to the list.

 

[Killercanary]

You will have to have a tune with the 42's and lightning MAF, there is no way around that. An ignition may very well be a must have as well, though you can try to get away with a ~.030"-.035" gapped plug. If it will only take another month to save up for the clutch, then I'd get the 42's, meter, and a tune now. By the time you get the car together, setup a dyno tune, etc that month will be over. The only thing I'd check with the tuner first is what, if any effect on the tune will a slipping clutch have? If it slips on the dyno and loads the car differently (less) this could effect the tune but I don't know to what degree.

For the rear I like the FMS 31 spline Traction-lok and superior axles for a street/strip car.

 

[final5-0]

I could not agree more with the things others have said.

A power adder needs lots of other things to go along with it if you want a ride that is right and relatively maintenance free.

If you do decide to run the fmu for a while, be sure to tie wrap the hose to the fmu. If it comes loose during a wot blast, you could do some damage as you will go lean big time real quick.

Another thing about going with the fmu. Wait on the tune until you get all the other stuff in place to avoid double cost.

Maybe you would be better off to wait until you get your clutch fixed and all the other parts ready to go.

I know its tough to wait but ...... when you get it all together

Its gonna be great

Grady

 

[ProKiller]

wait for another couple months and get it all at once? picking and choosing is hard when your talking supercharging. skimp out on fuel, there goes your engine. skimp out on the clutch, there goes your tune.

42s and a 80mm maf are what your gonna need, at the least and that is an easy 400 bucks. 200 left for a tune? prolly not enough.

 

[FlyBy763]

Why do you guys say an ignition is so mandatory? I am running a bone stock ignition on mine and it runs fine...what gives?

 

[final5-0]

Why do you guys say an ignition is so mandatory? I am running a bone stock ignition on mine and it runs fine...what gives?

Jon

Forced induction combos can blow the spark out at the higher rpm's.

A hotter spark will help with that issue.

Grady

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Why do you guys say an ignition is so mandatory? I am running a bone stock ignition on mine and it runs fine...what gives?

Your HP numbers are still within the aspect of the stock ignition. You add more parts like heads, cam, etc. and I will guarantee it won't run fine.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

I suck!!!

Sorry it took so long for me to get in here...Did a 14-hr shift today.

They said it all though!!!

Good Luck!!

RC

 

[stprorolla49]

i DEFINATELY agree on gettin the 42's and the lightning meter because then it gives you endless possibilities, and room to grow....also, one thing that is VERY important that you may be overlooking is, at minimum, boost and fuel pressure gauges.....VERY important! good luck with the parts man, i wish i was doin the same.....

 

[FlyBy763]

Your HP numbers are still within the aspect of the stock ignition. You add more parts like heads, cam, etc. and I will guarantee it won't run fine.

Makes sense...perhaps a dumb question...

what is concidered the limit of the stock ignition?

 

[SWYZ721]

Jon

Forced induction combos can blow the spark out at the higher rpm's.

A hotter spark will help with that issue.

Grady

While I do want to agree with this, becuse it makes sense to me in the simplistic sense.

I know of a focus that running 27-30PSI 440WHP

making a pass with BFG G-Force Drag Dadials(DOT)tires running an 11.8 @ 123 with 2.0 60ft.

full interior and trim SVT

with STOCK cam and STOCK ignition.

 

[final5-0]

While I do want to agree with this, becuse it makes sense to me in the simplistic sense.

I know of a focus that running 27-30PSI 440WHP

making a pass with BFG G-Force Drag Dadials(DOT)tires running an 11.8 @ 123 with 2.0 60ft.

full interior and trim SVT

with STOCK cam and STOCK ignition.

I don't doubt what you have posted at all.

I would be the first to say, I have no knowledge about a focus.

I would have to agree that I do like to keep things simple.

I do feel comfortable in answering in this simplistic fashion.

Stang owners who have typical 5.0 forced induction street combos have posted on this forum about having spark blow out issues.

They usually upgrade their ignition, close down the plug gap, or do both as a method to solve the spark blow out.

Perhaps the stock Stang ignition is not as powerful as the stock ignition on a Focus

Grady

 

[BlackVert]

you might also think about an intercooler or a "mr. freeze" type of kit to help cool the intake air. that will either allow you to crank up the timing to make more hp, or simply be less prone to detonation, both of which are good things of course ...

 

[SWYZ721]

Perhaps the stock Stang ignition is not as powerful as the stock ignition on a Focus

Grady

Yea, I think thats it, the difference between technology, who knows when the ignition on ouw 5.0s was engineered, ~mid-80s maybe. Compared to the obviously new focus.

cool

 

[Joe 5.0]

Okay well I wrote em a check today for this stuff:

S-trim (of course)
BBK LT's & Midpipe
MSD 6A Ignition
42lb Injectors

Total was $3700, so now I need to find a Lightning Maf (~$90 on ebay), fuel/boost/water temp guages, and save up for a clutch & rear end. Will try to get a powerpipe also before the install.

I have some body damage from a couple months ago, plus NO WAY this clutch will hold up to 100rwhp more, so the clutch will be done way before the blower is even installed. I dont plan on having the blower installed/tuned until early summer, or as money allows.

Also, the guy said the only difference between the 6A & 6AL was that the AL had a rev limiter, whereas the 6A does not. I asked if I had it custom tuned and had a chip burnt that didnt the stock limiter stay in place, and he said yeah. So for $40 less I got the 6A instead. Was he right?

BTW thanks for the help guys, def appreciate it.

 

[Killercanary]

I would have went with the MSD 6al as it has a "soft touch" rev limiter and is supposedly easier on the engine than the stock one. It limits rpm differently (via spark) than the stock EEC.