Terminator X Kill Switch install

[Ethereal_Zer0]

I want to install an anti-theft type kill switch into my fox and have been looking at how to go about this. Mostly I want to verify I am doing this correctly and I also have a side question that I am just curious about. Here is the wiring diagram for the Terminator X system: Wiring Diagram

I have a 10A 277V AC/20A 125V AC toggle switch I got from Home Depot. Can I use this switch as a kill switch (is this appropriately rated?) spliced into the wire that comes from A2 on the wiring diagram (is this the correct wire to splice into to disable the fuel relay so it can't be started)?

Also, for the second question I am just curious about... could this also be done alternatively by splicing into the A10 wire and what is the reason for doing A2 as opposed to A10 if any?

Thanks for the help!

 

[TOOLOW91]

A10 is the switched 12v power
A2 is the fuel pump relay

If you want to just kill fuel pump then use a2, if you want to kill the whole system use a10

 

[89notchDude]

I would like to see an option on the Term X to enter a passcode in order to start and run the vehicle... wouldn't be hard to to do.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

I have a 10A 277V AC/20A 125V AC toggle switch I got from Home Depot. Can I use this switch as a kill switch (is this appropriately rated?) ....

No. It is not rated for DC use. That can cause serious problems. Get a DC rated switch.

 

[Ethereal_Zer0]

No. It is not rated for DC use. That can cause serious problems. Get a DC rated switch.

Ok thanks! I'll return this one and get something more appropriate (haha have someone there help me this time). What would potentially happen with a switch that's only AC rated? Do they get hot?

 

[Ethereal_Zer0]

A10 is the switched 12v power
A2 is the fuel pump relay

If you want to just kill fuel pump then use a2, if you want to kill the whole system use a10

Awesome, I think I am tracking. Hopefully getting better at reading wiring diagrams XD Would it also be possible to use a momentary push button type switch and splice that into the red wire on the starter relay? I'm probably paranoid (and also just trying to think of all possibilities I guess), but I'd love to have a switch for the fuel pump relay and then a momentary switch on the starter relay if that would work.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Awesome, I think I am tracking. Hopefully getting better at reading wiring diagrams XD Would it also be possible to use a momentary push button type switch and splice that into the red wire on the starter relay? I'm probably paranoid (and also just trying to think of all possibilities I guess), but I'd love to have a switch for the fuel pump relay and then a momentary switch on the starter relay if that would work.

You could do that as well where you’d have to hit the button and turn the key to make it start

 

[Ethereal_Zer0]

You could do that as well where you’d have to hit the button and turn the key to make it start

Hell yeah, thank you for the help man. Cutting wires always makes me nervous, I appreciate the verification!

 

[TOOLOW91]

Hell yeah, thank you for the help man. Cutting wires always makes me nervous, I appreciate the verification!

On the Holley I wouldn’t advise doing that I’d do it on the ignition side of the car

 

[85GTStangGuy]

What would potentially happen with a switch that's only AC rated? Do they get hot?

No, heat shouldn't be the issue. And it may well work okay, depending on the switch rating and the intended usage. But I still would never do it. The switch hasn't been tested for that application.

Regarding the switch, it could wear out prematurely, or the contacts could fail to operate properly. It has to do with how the interrupted current's arc affects the contacts of the switch. The contacts on the DC switch are typically going to be "beefier", due to how that arc is extinguished.

 

[Ethereal_Zer0]

No, heat shouldn't be the issue. And it may well work okay, depending on the switch rating and the intended usage. But I still would never do it. The switch hasn't been tested for that application.

Regarding the switch, it could wear out prematurely, or the contacts could fail to operate properly. It has to do with how the interrupted current's arc affects the contacts of the switch. The contacts on the DC switch are typically going to be "beefier", due to how that arc is extinguished.

Cool, thanks so much for the excellent breakdown! I ended up finding some DC switches on Amazon for a decent price and am gonna go with those. I'll start with the switch spliced into the fuel relay first and then see how I feel about the momentary switch. That one makes me more nervous for some nonsense reason lol.

 

[nicholase]

A RFID kill switch relay would be nice for that application. Essentially a key fob that closes a relay when you are close to the car. When the key fob isn't close to the car it will interrupt whatever circuit you install it on. I haven't used the one in the link below, just an example. I have used RFID kill switches from Motogadget for motorcycle builds and they work excellent.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wats...cYzDHQFLMCVt18-3wkR3kuZbazPKocKRoCutQQAvD_BwE

 

[90sickfox]

When installing kill switches I like using a relay to carry the load. Switch inside car controls the ground side of the relay. Also, avoids running another hot wire to the switch. I like killing the fuel pump so I can hear someone attemp to crank the car. A GPS tracker is also a good idea...and not an air tag. I like to catch the thief not deter them.