testing injectors

what do you want to test? test that they physically work or that they dont leak? or something else?

Was the car running fine before? You changed them only because they where leaking? If yes on both, they are fine. You can do a leak test once you have the injectors, fuel rail, and all fuel lines connected. Turn the key on and off several times. Check for leaks. The pump will run for only a few seconds each time you turn on the ignition. You can check fuel pressure with a gauge and be sure its there. You can use it to bleed air out of the system too. They are only $20 if you are interested in knowing for sure what your FP is.

ok, i was not sure if you meant an internal leak (the injector pintle was leaking) or external. for an internal leak, Jrichker has a post on a neat test. basically you use a cup of water with a smidge of soap and compressed air on the injector to see if it leaks with pressure. see JR's post for more info.

good luck with it.

The only thing the pintle caps do is keep the O ring from sliding off. They have nothing to do with the fuel spray pattern.

Injector test
1.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

There are two 10 pin connectors at the back of the upper manifold, one of them has all 8 injector connections. Pull them apart and check for damage. Each injector should ohm out at about 13 ohms +\- 1.5 ohms. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=6 for a diagram & pinout

Remember that the computer supplies a ground path for the injectors. The power for the injectors comes through the ECC relay located on top of the computer. They have power to them any time the ignition is on. The computer turns on the ground and completes the circuit, making the injectors fire.

2.) Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.