Electrical TFI Plug

AeroCoupe said:

8 - 8 cylinder
12 - Cannot control rpm during Self-Test high rpm check
42 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (right HEGO)
92 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (left HEGO

With regards to the TFI plug it may be as easy as tightening the connectors or you may need to replace the plug.

1986-1993 Ford Mustang TFI Module Repair Harness Pigtail Wiring Plug ConnectorDefault Title

TFI Module Repair Harness for 1986-1993 Mustangs. Replace your worn and cracked harness! This repair plug & pigtail fits into the connector that goes into the Distributor. We recommend that you use a solder & heat shrink tubing for an easy fix!

blueovalindustries.com

Other issue is the O2 sensors.

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AeroCoupe said:

The code 12 is most likely the issue with the TFI plug. You are having to jiggle or shake the wires or mess with the plug for it to restart. You need to fix that which will most likely fix the code getting tripped.

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Standard Motor Products LX218T Ignition Module Control Unit​

, the ford Motocraft from RockAuto was a defect bought this from amazon cuz people gave good reviews​

rednotch said:

The motor craft and standard 218 are identical parts. The 218t is 98% the same except it has one connection per pad under the cover vs 2 on the motor craft and none T series standard part... You probably just have a better connection this time and it hasn't arked or shorted it yet.

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CAMTWO1070 said:

If you did the wiggle test and got a result the problem is in the wiring....

From what you describe it sounds like the shielding is conflicting with the green wire for the coil...The shielding has a seperate grounding wire called a special grounding wire just for the shielding and also theres one for the instrumentation gauges and both comes off of pin #20 on the ecu plug..

Its laymans terminology is "case ground"...

Under that black tape is an aluminum layer that shields that part of the harness and sounds like you need to investigate there further by doing continuity tests on all 6 wires from TFI to ECU and even cross the pins to see or find where theyre shorting together..It will be 7 wires if you check them against pin #20 on the ECU......................

Im going with Pin 1 on TFI shorting to ground through pin #20 on the ecu through the TFI shielding and cracked wiring as the cause...


Some have found that doing the relocation mod causes more issues because the proper dizzy from a 1993 -1996 must be used and proper shielded wiring must be used and properly grounded.......



The cause for the overheaing TFI module is usually caused when the resistor on pin #4 burns out or in technical terms shorts to open ....The unfiltered power the ecu and TFI gets on that circuit is a no no and way too much thats why its limited to 22kohms using a resistor on 88-92 or 93 5 speed models.......

A test between pin 4 on ecu plug and pin 2 on TFI plug will reveal if it needs to be replaced if its an original 5 speed car and if its not an original 5 speed and originally was an automatic the 22k resistor needs to be added especially of you put a non CCD TFI module on your dizzy.....



Whats funny is for anyone contemp;lating doing the TFI module relocation mod just know that with a simple foil faced piece of bubble wrap and some foil tape I made a shield that keeps the heat from rising up under my TFI module and It works awesome...



I used an old intake and distributor and some peel and stick with foil tape to prototype the first one...

The thing that was the root cause of my issue was the billet aluminum distributor...

From my back thinking and deducing I came up with the conclusion that seeings the problem of intermittent power loss after driving for awhile came after replacing the stock dizzy for a billet one so I did some research and researched the heat retention differences between billet and cast..

Billet aluminum retains heat longer with a higher heat concentration than cast aluminum....

Good Luck

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rednotch said:

I bought a bunch of old standard lx218 off fleabay for $10 each from parts liquidators. If I had to buy one tomorrow I would find the local parts store that carries standard and buy the 218 non t series for the lifetime warranty.

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rednotch said:

Hasn't mattered in about 25 years, not going to find much stock that old any way. Even the old stuff I bought is the same as the current design except for some NOS ford, and filko, ones I bought. They consolidated the design of the lx218/223 years ago, and just dropped the 223 all to gether a few years back. Your much better off buying from a local parts store where you can walk in and honor the warranty on those any way. O'Reillys carries standard... There just not in my state.

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