TFS Head question

[CManT1914]

I was reading about the twisted wedge heads, and looking at the differences between these two:

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=TFS-51400002&FROM=MG

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...t=TFS-51400004&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

The second one has upgraded springs (it uses a dual spring setup as opposed to single). I was reading this data sheet about the two heads:

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/tfs-sbf_tw_sh.pdf

If I understood it right, the one with dual springs has a maximum lift of .600". Did I read that right? The reason I ask is because with the TFS Stage 1 Cam, exhaust lift with 1.7 rocker arms is .5418", which is too much for the single spring heads, but if I understood that sheet correctly, with the upgraded springs, .5418" would work fine. Thoughts?

 

[Joes95GT]

Summit's new website is awful.

Get the upgraded spring package, not only because of the coil bind problems, but because of the spring pressures. 105 pounds of pressure on the seat is almost as bad as the stock springs. They will loosen up to about 90-95 pounds over the first couple of start ups, and then whatever cam you have in there would be useless.

Joe

 

[CManT1914]

Summit's new website is awful.

Get the upgraded spring package, not only because of the coil bind problems, but because of the spring pressures. 105 pounds of pressure on the seat is almost as bad as the stock springs. They will loosen up to about 90-95 pounds over the first couple of start ups, and then whatever cam you have in there would be useless.

Joe

Well I just won an auction for the Twisted Wedge heads with the dual springs, they can handle up to .600" of lift, which is more than I need actually, but at least I won't have problems with valve float. I'm buying the Stage 1 cam from a guy in Classifieds this afternoon. I am bidding on some TFS split ratio (1.6/1.7) 7/16" stud mount rockers on ebay. The guy with the rockers also has the pushrods I need, 6.750" that he'll sell for $50. All I'll need now are lifters and headers. I'll probably just get the lifters from summit, and the headers from 50resto. I was talking to a friend today, and he was telling me that the cam install is just as easy as the headswap as long as I'm installing it straight-up. He's done quite a few Chevy 350 cam swaps before, so I'll probably see if he can help me with the swap. Thanks Joe!

 

[Joes95GT]

You're gonna use the 1.7's on the intake side, right?

And, I still wouldn't be surprised to see hints of valve float once the springs get broken in.

Float isn't caused by inadequate clearances in the spring (i.e. distance to coil bind), it's caused by inadequate spring pressure. After the springs are broken in, and it sees the top side of 6000 RPM's a few times, I wouldn't be surprised to see them float around 6000-6200 RPM...

Joe

 

[cavscout371]

Cool sounds like you were able to go with what you wanted and didnt have to settle for less and still got a deal on the parts congrats man.

Don't forget to get some good head bolts when you do it.

Any Questions when you get into installation PM me also MO_DINGO, FastFord (Jethro), and others have done this setup I think I'm the only one that retarded the cam and went with 1.7's though. The -4deg gives you a couple more r's on the top end without losing to much torque. If your running 4.10 and might eventually want the bottle it's not a bad idea.

Most importantly good luck on the rest of the project.

 

[CManT1914]

You're gonna use the 1.7's on the intake side, right?

And, I still wouldn't be surprised to see hints of valve float once the springs get broken in.

Float isn't caused by inadequate clearances in the spring (i.e. distance to coil bind), it's caused by inadequate spring pressure. After the springs are broken in, and it sees the top side of 6000 RPM's a few times, I wouldn't be surprised to see them float around 6000-6200 RPM...

Joe

Yea I'm definitely using the 1.7's on the intake side. That should even out the intake and exhaust flow. That should give me .530" intake lift, and .510" exhaust lift. I'm not too concerned about valve float aboce 6000, as I don't think I'll be shifting above that.

Cool sounds like you were able to go with what you wanted and didnt have to settle for less and still got a deal on the parts congrats man.

Don't forget to get some good head bolts when you do it.

Any Questions when you get into installation PM me also MO_DINGO, FastFord (Jethro), and others have done this setup I think I'm the only one that retarded the cam and went with 1.7's though. The -4deg gives you a couple more r's on the top end without losing to much torque. If your running 4.10 and might eventually want the bottle it's not a bad idea.

Most importantly good luck on the rest of the project.

Yea I'm gonna order some head bolts, lifters, and some miscellaneous stuff from summit. My headers I'm gonna get from 50resto. I have a guy I'm buying the cam from online. The guy that has the rocker arms said he would sell me the right pushrods for the TW heads (6.750") for $50 if I won the rockers.

Quick question, what kind of head gaskets should I get? Can I just get some regular head gaskets from Advanced Auto, or since I'm placing orders with Summit should I order some from them? What kind is good but not real expensive? Cus I've seen some REALLY expensive head gaskets! Thanks guys!

 

[CManT1914]

Oh, and am I gonna need taller valve covers? The TW heads have the valve rail (I think it was called the valve rail) raised .350".

EDIT: Will these head bolts work? They say something about not being cut to fit, wtf is that about?

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=ARP-154-3601&FROM=MG