The best bang for your buck power adder that isn't a bottle?
- Thread starter Silentst2000
- Start date
I think your not being specific enough. You mean the best mod that produces the most gains? If so, I would have to say the horsepower per dollar ratio are very close with gears and pulleys. Although gears don't actually give you any more horsepower, they sure do multiply the torque to make it seem like it.
Joe
Joe
i would say that pulleys are the best because their the cheapest and easiest to install. a ported stock lower intake is also good
Pulleys give you the most for the $$.
Gears dont add HP, but surely give you the best SOTP feel for entry mod.
RC
Gears dont add HP, but surely give you the best SOTP feel for entry mod.
RC
a_turbo_stang
Member
Pulleys are first on my list.
My heads and cam are a VERY close second. I went from 13.83 at 98.5 to 12.31 at 111.15 with heads, cam, injectors, fuel pump, eec tuner, rockers, and track time.
My heads and cam are a VERY close second. I went from 13.83 at 98.5 to 12.31 at 111.15 with heads, cam, injectors, fuel pump, eec tuner, rockers, and track time.
Down
Founding Member
Down
Founding Member
Peak power?Silentst2000 said:
Arguable.
Useable power?
Oh yeah.
Take a look at Chris95SVT, that a turbo "convincer".
J
Down said:
Yeah, but I got my Polished Vortech, Power Pipe Prom77, injectors and all the accessories for $2400.
I think that is Double the "bang for the buck"
WIth a lot of guys going turbo, you can find a lot of used Blowers.
RC
Down
Founding Member
94Blue302GT
Member
CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM CAM
Ok, the rear gear is what you'll FEEL, but the power really isn't any different, just used differently
The poweradders like super and turbo cost a bunch and you will probably need to do some other things as well. And although i'd LOVE to do that myself, i think the best for the buck would be the CAM
Get a cam with about 500 lift and some sweet duration, and you're set. I'm getting the E cam from ford, but thats just because they have an emissions number for it.
My friend has a straight 300 in his old pickup truck, threw in a cam about the same as my E and it pulls like a motha! he out does me. Well, he put on dual duces because of the long block too, and has a 3.90, and basically straight exhaust, but you know what i mean now? it's a BIG TRUCK and he has me trying to catch up! And now that i've got a cam in the garage and the rear end in the garage, he bought a torino.... (bout 450 N/A) Bumma, i was looking forward to another race after my mods...
Ok, the rear gear is what you'll FEEL, but the power really isn't any different, just used differently
The poweradders like super and turbo cost a bunch and you will probably need to do some other things as well. And although i'd LOVE to do that myself, i think the best for the buck would be the CAM
Get a cam with about 500 lift and some sweet duration, and you're set. I'm getting the E cam from ford, but thats just because they have an emissions number for it.
My friend has a straight 300 in his old pickup truck, threw in a cam about the same as my E and it pulls like a motha! he out does me. Well, he put on dual duces because of the long block too, and has a 3.90, and basically straight exhaust, but you know what i mean now? it's a BIG TRUCK and he has me trying to catch up! And now that i've got a cam in the garage and the rear end in the garage, he bought a torino.... (bout 450 N/A) Bumma, i was looking forward to another race after my mods...
jmuva44
Founding Member
jmuva44
Founding Member
The stock cam is one of the best things in the stock 5.0 longblock. It has the potential to make decent power. I am not a fan of aftermarket cams on stock heads for several reasons. The horsepower you will pick up will not be worth the low end torque lost, especially if you drive your car everyday. Second, the stock springs are not made for any type of high performance driving, and even if you do install a cam under .500 lift, the springs are going to be the weak point of the motor. The springs aren't designed for the faster ramp rates and high revs of today's aftermarket hydraulic roller cams. If the cam will pull to 5800 or 6000, you will experience valve float because the spring pressures are being exceeded. You also have to pull the whole timing cover and timing chain and all that other bull crap just to pull the cam. You could always use the stock rocker arms although that is not a very wise decision. I would guess that you would see 10 or 15 more horsepower from the cam, but like I said before, you will lose a substantial amount of low-end torque. Cam installs are nothing to tackle if you have no experience with them either. IMO, they are not worth the money. By the time you buy all the supporting stuff for the cam, you could have purchased a nitrous kit.
Joe
Joe
Silentst2000 said:
If you can weld and read a book, you can make your own turbo setup for much, much less than the cost of a kit.
In fact, the turbo is cheap compared to the forged rotating assembly and fuel system that you need to handle the power. Also, to get the most power out of your combination, you will need at least a chip or tweecer to tune your fuel injection, or else a carb with a special box to pressurize it.
Dont mess with changing a cam with stock heads.
I agree with Joe about the stock cam. I, and others run blowers with stock cams and blowers.
H3LL, Im even thinking about chaning the heads, rods, and RR's, and even keeping the stock cam.
RC
I agree with Joe about the stock cam. I, and others run blowers with stock cams and blowers.
H3LL, Im even thinking about chaning the heads, rods, and RR's, and even keeping the stock cam.
RC
