If I understand "popup" correctly maybe your catalytic converter is plugged up and is snuffing your engine. You should be more specific with the details of your problem or noone can really give you any help/advice.
I don't have any exhaust system yet, and when I turn the key, the car is only doing a couple of explosions, but not enough to start. So,when I say "popup",
it is the sound that my exhaust does.
All pins are connected,correctly.Except the tripminder that I don't even knew the existance, that I haven't touch at all.
all sensors are connected, at the right place, except the one that is in the prestone on the lower intake,that I think is the fan sensor.
Stinger : I've connected all my sensors, change some pins on my computer, plug my battery, my fuel pump relay all the usual things that we do when when an engine swap is done.
I've replaced it, but I'm not 100% sure of where I should put the mark on the crank pulley, I've put it on TC and I've aligned all the "marks" where they should be, but some guys told me that I have to put it on 10* and not on TC? is that true?
I have spark at sparkplugs, and I have a lot of fuel.. lol
The only thing that I think that could be wrong, is that I haven't unplugged anything on the computer? If I haven't unplugged anything, could it be my problem? I just add some pins, but didn't remove anything...
Or the EEC isn't sending right timing for injectors.
If you set the timing w/o a timing light, I'm guessing you set it at about TDC. If so, try loosening the distributor and turning it back and forth while cranking the engine to see if you can get it to "catch".
The n/a and turbo distributors are interchangeable.
Have you turned the distributor while cranking the car like suggested? There is a big difference between turning it while the car is off and turning it while it's cranking...
I'm about to tell you to take it to a mechanic...or someone that knows alot about cars...
That engine was running when the previous owner pulled it, right? Normally, you wouldn't have had to touch it, unless someone fiddled with it between the time the engine was pulled and you tried starting it...
I just remembered that last year before we installed Michel's engine, we compared the rotor position with the one in the Haynes manual, and it was off by a lot. So we reset it as per the Haynes manual, and the engine wouldn't start. We used common sense to set it (after comparing to his old 2.3), which turned out to be as it was set initially, and the engine fired up fine. We scratched our heads over it for a while too...
So: set crank to TDC, check cam timing through plug in the cover. If the mark is out of sight, turn crank one revolution, and try again. If the mark is still out of sight, cam timing is wrong, correct it before continuing.
Set ignition timing by lining up rotor to where the #1 tower is on the dist cap.
You do have fuel pressure at the fuel rail, right?