Stock projectors run 35w and are brighter than your drop in 50w kit, so why would you want to keep those puny things?
The end all to lighting...99-04
- Thread starter mijo_latino
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Stock projectors run 35w and are brighter than your drop in 50w kit, so why would you want to keep those puny things?
Mossberg
Active Member
Looks great so far!
I too am tired of the lackluster lighting for the Mustang. I will probably attempt a retrofit for my Stang using some eBay projector headlamps. They are not the best looking, but they will allow me to retain highbeam function without going bi-xenon. I will most likely remove the orange reflector and halos or I may just not connect the halos.
I may also tint the outer lens cover (blackout) when I'm finished so that the projectors don't show as much. I figure the increased output of the HIDs will make the slight tint a nonissue.
I too am tired of the lackluster lighting for the Mustang. I will probably attempt a retrofit for my Stang using some eBay projector headlamps. They are not the best looking, but they will allow me to retain highbeam function without going bi-xenon. I will most likely remove the orange reflector and halos or I may just not connect the halos.
I may also tint the outer lens cover (blackout) when I'm finished so that the projectors don't show as much. I figure the increased output of the HIDs will make the slight tint a nonissue.
Looks great so far!
I too am tired of the lackluster lighting for the Mustang. I will probably attempt a retrofit for my Stang using some eBay projector headlamps. They are not the best looking, but they will allow me to retain highbeam function without going bi-xenon. I will most likely remove the orange reflector and halos or I may just not connect the halos.
I may also tint the outer lens cover (blackout) when I'm finished so that the projectors don't show as much. I figure the increased output of the HIDs will make the slight tint a nonissue.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee7/MossbergSlim/HID/1FF057-6343_4B.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]
Those would look fine if you got rid of the rings, made the hi beams into fog lights, and swapped in real HID projectors. :D
Mossberg
Active Member
Yeah, that is what I was saying in my post.Those would look fine if you got rid of the rings, made the hi beams into fog lights, and swapped in real HID projectors.
The Hi beams will stay Hi beams though. The lows will get an hid conversion (Audi projectors). The halos would be removed as well as the orange reflector.
That light will be fairly easy to use for the basis of a retro. Inside is a plastic bracket that holds both the proj and the high beam reflector. All you'd need to do is find a hid proj that will fit and fabricate a new bracket.
Mossberg
Active Member
That's what I'm hoping. I will try the Audi first to see if they fit. I would imagine it needs to be a shallow projector since the housing is around the same size as the OEM light. It should not be too hard to make the hid projector fit in there with a small amount of fab-work.
I'll have to research this project a little more before taking the plunge. *goes to hidplanet*
Haven't dissappeared yet!
Sorry for the delays, work decided to step it up a notch. I have slowly been tinkering.
AIMING
Well, after doing it my way, I find that the method found on HIDplanet is well worth a look. Thanks san~man("JNC" on HIDP aswell). I ended up putting washers where there needed to be rotated and such. This is proabably where you want to spend most of your time getting right. No one likes crooked beams.
These are some pics showing output, glare, and a low vs high beam. I didn't have my tripod so these wont count as before and after shots. The beams are almost lined up on these shots, the driver side needed to be rotated 1 washer to be complete.
This was shot at waist level about 35ft out. There is absolutely no glare coming off as im above the cut-off.
View attachment 304880
A shot of the output and the lgiht spread, NO hot spots!!! The tab shadows at the beginning are called foreground limiters I think. Intentional from the projectors. Right in front of the bumper, never seen from the drivers seat.
View attachment 304881
Low beam shot and makeshift wall, trying to aim them a bit. No tripod so shots are lame.
View attachment 304882
High beam shot. Yeah, they are that bright! again no tripod.
View attachment 304883
Next step, Finishing shrouding and painting...
Sorry for the delays, work decided to step it up a notch. I have slowly been tinkering.
AIMING
Well, after doing it my way, I find that the method found on HIDplanet is well worth a look. Thanks san~man("JNC" on HIDP aswell). I ended up putting washers where there needed to be rotated and such. This is proabably where you want to spend most of your time getting right. No one likes crooked beams.
These are some pics showing output, glare, and a low vs high beam. I didn't have my tripod so these wont count as before and after shots. The beams are almost lined up on these shots, the driver side needed to be rotated 1 washer to be complete.
This was shot at waist level about 35ft out. There is absolutely no glare coming off as im above the cut-off.
View attachment 304880
A shot of the output and the lgiht spread, NO hot spots!!! The tab shadows at the beginning are called foreground limiters I think. Intentional from the projectors. Right in front of the bumper, never seen from the drivers seat.
View attachment 304881
Low beam shot and makeshift wall, trying to aim them a bit. No tripod so shots are lame.
View attachment 304882
High beam shot. Yeah, they are that bright! again no tripod.
View attachment 304883
Next step, Finishing shrouding and painting...
Looks good, but your horizontal rotation seems a bit off. Looks as though you need to rotate the projector (driver's side) counter clockwise as the cut off line after the step seems to slant downward when it should be perfectly level. From the photo, the passenger side seems straight.
Good job so far!!
Good job so far!!
Stock projectors run 35w and are brighter than your drop in 50w kit, so why would you want to keep those puny things?
i wouldnt say the oems are brighter but they have good spread and i have anoying hot spots and bad cut off when i get around to finally doing it i want to keep my ballasts and buy 50watt phillips d2s bulbs or buy some modded ballasts from hid planet there is some one making ballasts that put out 90watts
I'll be starting to pick up the pieces for a retrofit here soon. Have a little list going:
9007->D2S Harness
Matsush(i)ta G3
AFS RX330 Projectors
85122+ 5000k
Crossfire Shrouds
Good choice in projector. Next to the S2K's, they are (IMO) the best single xenon out, and much cheaper to boot. You do need a good lens to swap in though for a sharp cut off line.
Here's an idea of what can be done with RX's and an S2K lens (my old set up):
Look at all that blue on the cut off line:
The squirrel finder hole was covered (don't bend the metal flap w/e you do), but the shield is otherwise stock. I experimented with making custom shields, but no matter how straight you think you've cut the flashing (or w/e aluminum you use), once you put it into the projector and shine it on a wall ANY imperfection becomes greatly magnified. Unless you have access to a cnc machine or something of the sort, I wouldn't waste your time.
Next to the S2K's, there isn't a better single xenon (IMO) out there.
Next to the S2K's, there isn't a better single xenon (IMO) out there.
i'll share my retrofitted headlights. I sent mine to retrosolutions to have fx clear projectors installed but the guy doing them said it wouldn't fit right. So he did ece spec valeos just low beam and they fit perfect, he also painted the back black. Here's some pics, there with my cellphone so in real life it looks alot better.
