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Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs

  • Thread starter Thread starter 02 281 GT
  • Start date Start date Jul 9, 2018
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#41
  • Sep 12, 2018
  • #41
Davedacarpainter said:
Epoxy primer would be fine. Key is to get it done as soon as it’s blasted.
Click to expand...
So I’m assuming something like one of these would be what I’m looking for?

https://www.sherwin-automotive.com/refinish/products-reference/undercoats/premium-national-rule
 

Davedacarpainter

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#42
  • Sep 13, 2018
  • #42
02 281 GT said:
So I’m assuming something like one of these would be what I’m looking for?

https://www.sherwin-automotive.com/refinish/products-reference/undercoats/premium-national-rule
Click to expand...
None of those is an epoxy primer.

Though the P30 series of high build primers is one of the best primers I've used though. You would still need an etch primer with this first. That's what the PE995 is.

Other than just for an initial coating to protect your bare metal, I wouldn't use NP75. It's a direct to metal primer, meaning you wouldn't need the etch first. It isn't nearly as easy to use when blocking the panels out. But could be fairly ideal for you for just protecting the panel.

Polyester primer is overkill. It used to come in handy prior to Paintless Dent Repair became popular after hail storms. It would fill in small hail dents that the bodymen would inevitably miss. I really haven't used it in years though.

So if you don't want to use an epoxy, and you don't mind spending a chunk of change, I would think the NP75 would be the way to go to just protect your metal.

Like I mentioned, the P30 series of primers from SW are some of the best on the market. Keep in mind that I've used practically every major brand out there and am using Sikkens right now.

That said, those are all expensive. SW believes all of their products are made of gold.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#43
  • Sep 13, 2018
  • #43
Davedacarpainter said:
None of those is an epoxy primer.

Though the P30 series of high build primers is one of the best primers I've used though. You would still need an etch primer with this first. That's what the PE995 is.

Other than just for an initial coating to protect your bare metal, I wouldn't use NP75. It's a direct to metal primer, meaning you wouldn't need the etch first. It isn't nearly as easy to use when blocking the panels out. But could be fairly ideal for you for just protecting the panel.

Polyester primer is overkill. It used to come in handy prior to Paintless Dent Repair became popular after hail storms. It would fill in small hail dents that the bodymen would inevitably miss. I really haven't used it in years though.

So if you don't want to use an epoxy, and you don't mind spending a chunk of change, I would think the NP75 would be the way to go to just protect your metal.

Like I mentioned, the P30 series of primers from SW are some of the best on the market. Keep in mind that I've used practically every major brand out there and am using Sikkens right now.

That said, those are all expensive. SW believes all of their products are made of gold.
Click to expand...
The different kinds of paints and primers are confusing. It's not that I'm against using an epoxy, it's just that I honestly couldn't tell if they were epoxies or not.

It almost sounds like I should just go get a gallon of epoxy-whatever from O'Reilly if all I'm looking to do is protect the metal until I can start repairs?
 

Davedacarpainter

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#44
  • Sep 13, 2018
  • #44
02 281 GT said:
The different kinds of paints and primers are confusing. It's not that I'm against using an epoxy, it's just that I honestly couldn't tell if they were epoxies or not.

It almost sounds like I should just go get a gallon of epoxy-whatever from O'Reilly if all I'm looking to do is protect the metal until I can start repairs?
Click to expand...
I think that sums it up wrll
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#45
  • Sep 19, 2018
  • #45
I'm starting to plan out my garage air system. Would a filter/dryer assembly such as this be adequate for drying the air when priming the car?

Amazon product ASIN B01H7N4BV6View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7N4BV6/
 
G

Goeking

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Oct 7, 2018
#46
  • Oct 7, 2018
  • #46
02 281 GT said:
I'm starting to plan out my garage air system. Would a filter/dryer assembly such as this be adequate for drying the air when priming the car?

Amazon product ASIN B01H7N4BV6View: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H7N4BV6/
Click to expand...
That's what I installed in my system. I'm in Florida so I've got big problems with humidity. The dryer the better. I'm running a Harbor Freight big cabinet sand blaster and you need dry air to keep your media flowing.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Oct 21, 2018
#47
  • Oct 21, 2018
  • #47
Small progress today. With the exception of the front control arms and rear leaf springs, I've removed everything that can be removed with regular tools.



This one's for you, Dave.


Next plan is to get a bunch of spot weld cutters and an extra set of jackstands so I can start removing the sway bar and torsion bar mounts. In the meantime I'll build my water trap system and get a MIG welder. Hopefully I'll get it blasted no later than next spring.
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#48
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #48
Quick question for @horse sence and @Davedacarpainter
Is there a good shop/body manual you could recommend for this car that includes measurements to ensure the body is square? I was just thinking in the back of my head, what if there is slight frame damage given the evidence of a fender bender and rear end accidents?

Also, should I wait until I get the car media blasted before I get the car level on stands and start removing any sheetmetal? I'm fully expecting to have to replace both quarters with the rust around the taillights and large dents in various areas. I was thinking it might be good to have them off so the blaster can get at the metal underneath.
 

horse sence

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#49
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #49
I have a very nice 67 fast back and i had a 65 fast back i got all my measurements from
 

horse sence

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#50
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #50
I always remove the metal ,sandblast and primer then level and square it up
 
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Davedacarpainter

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#51
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #51
02 281 GT said:
Quick question for @horse sence and @Davedacarpainter
Is there a good shop/body manual you could recommend for this car that includes measurements to ensure the body is square? I was just thinking in the back of my head, what if there is slight frame damage given the evidence of a fender bender and rear end accidents?

Also, should I wait until I get the car media blasted before I get the car level on stands and start removing any sheetmetal? I'm fully expecting to have to replace both quarters with the rust around the taillights and large dents in various areas. I was thinking it might be good to have them off so the blaster can get at the metal underneath.
Click to expand...
Snoop around for an old Mitchell manual (s).

Before the dawn of computers we used to have to look things like measurements up in books!

We’d have our pet dinosaurs fetch them for us.
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Oct 26, 2018
#52
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #52
Davedacarpainter said:
Snoop around for an old Mitchell manual (s).

Before the dawn of computers we used to have to look things like measurements up in books!

We’d have our pet dinosaurs fetch them for us.
Click to expand...
What's a book?
 

horse sence

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#53
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #53
Its when you get thrown in jail i think
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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#54
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #54
02 281 GT said:
What's a book?
Click to expand...
Watch the History channel, they’ll show one there eventually.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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#55
  • Oct 26, 2018
  • #55
Found this on the google. Would this be good enough?

 
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Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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#56
  • Oct 27, 2018
  • #56
02 281 GT said:
Found this on the google. Would this be good enough?

Click to expand...
The whole “book” thing made you queasy, huh John? Lol

Had to go find it on the interwebz.

Yes, btw to your question.
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
15 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
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Oct 27, 2018
#57
  • Oct 27, 2018
  • #57
Davedacarpainter said:
The whole “book” thing made you queasy, huh John? Lol

Had to go find it on the interwebz.

Yes, btw to your question.
Click to expand...
You never sleep, do you, Dave?
 
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02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Oct 30, 2018
#58
  • Oct 30, 2018
  • #58
Do either of you have experience with wider wheel houses such as the ones at the top of this page?
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
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#59
  • Oct 30, 2018
  • #59
02 281 GT said:
Do either of you have experience with wider wheel houses such as the ones at the top of this page?
Click to expand...
Not me, that’s horse sence’s area there.

I’m not trying to say anything here, but my spell checker wanted to keep correcting horse sence to horse crap.

I’m sure it doesn’t mean anything though......
 
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horse sence

15 Year Member
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Oct 30, 2018
#60
  • Oct 30, 2018
  • #60
Davedacarpainter said:
Not me, that’s horse sence’s area there.

I’m not trying to say anything here, but my spell checker wanted to keep correcting horse sence to horse crap.

I’m sure it doesn’t mean anything though......
Click to expand...
Hey ,weight a minute here ...ok i will let it slide this time
 
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