Ever think of buying something from gaugeplates.com to mount those switches on? They can do a custom setup for you with switches and gauges anywhere you want. I'm probably going to be buying something from them for my own build.
I just have to drive it once before I leave again. I'd lose my marbles having to wait 5 weeks to drive a car that is 99.5% complete.
Ok,...Put me back in the "confused" section. When I first looked in on your build you were building a 408 for a bracket race car. I remember because I confused Reef Blues pics w/ your build thread comments, and begged you not to use those plastic seats. When you started to become conflicted w/ the final CR on your old engine, and started talking about going turbo, I assumed that you were building a street car again, because a turbo car has no place in bracket racing (too much power = inconsistency). I don't know why you decided to trade the 408 you were building (and just assembled) for the 4 something you bought, ( not that it matters) but again...I'm confused, as the mantra in BR is the more consistent the better,....read: the slower the better.
Not that the old 408 would've been slow,....I was just assuming that you bought the new engine because it was a better, faster combo, but you already had what you needed for the job before you spent the 5k+ for the new combo.
Looking at your recent photos, it looks like a race car again, and your burning desire to drive it before you go has me thinking that you should get used to not driving it instead, as if your aspirations for it is a race car, it only gets driven when it gets raced ( for a 1/4 mile at a time, and then parked between the 7 days from Saturday to Saturday)
So bring me up to speed please. Is this a race car/ a race car that you occasionally drive on the street/or a street car that you occasionally take to the track?
I ordered an Innovate MTX-L to help tune this pig and will be getting a jet kit in a few days. I have to point out that this is my first hitch offshore in 2 years where I have managed to control my spending to this one purchase. UNHEARD OF. Gonna pay off some bills next month too, which should free up some income for a custom cage.
I've got some other questions that will probably get my hand slapped but whatever, it relates to my build.
There is a '97 cobra being parted out locally and I'd like to get the brakes on all 4 corners. What would be a reasonable offer? Do I need the lines too? Will they clear my 15" wheels? <--- this being my main concern.
Thanks.
Oh, and I have been unable to sell my 408. I have lowered the price to the point of giving the d amn heads away for free and still no bites. Maybe we are in a depression. Sheesh. The contacts I did receive made offers as if they were buying a 100k mile 302 shortblock.
I would imagine that a 13" rotor, w/ the caliper adding another 1.5-2", stuffed under a 15" wheel is gonna end that series of questions, and your need to wonder about a reasonable dollar offer at the same time.
considering that the lion share of your stopping force comes from the front, I cant see any benefit in upgrading the rears. I'm not sure that there is any weight savings to be gained, and the drag associated from one type or the other is probably negligible.Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Next question then is would I get any benefit out of running GT rear brakes over the stock drums in the rear?
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