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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

The Motor Pull Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter sneaky98gt
  • Start date Start date Nov 3, 2011
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sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Nov 3, 2011
#1
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #1
Ok, so I'm gonna be working on yanking my old stock NPI 4.6 out of my car this weekend, and was looking for some info on how to do it and/or any pointers someone might have.

I already know the basics, like removing the AC compressor and PS pump, alternator, wiring, etc. I am going to be leaving the transmission in the car.

So what I want to know are things like:

1. Where do you attach the chains to hoist it out? I'm thinking a timing cover bolt on the front driver corner, and another bolt in the same corner on the opposite backside.

2. What exactly do I need to do to separate the tranny from the motor? I know the 7 bell-housing bolts and starter bolts, but what about the flywheel and/or torque converter? Anything special to do there?

3. Unbolt the tranny mounts or not?

Etc. Etc. You get the picture.

If anyone has any advice, please post away. I've looked around for a lot of this information, and can't find anything specific about it. I want to leave this thread with enough advice that someone in the future can use the info out of it.

Thanks Stangnet!
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 3, 2011
#2
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #2
I have done this 3 times so i have gotten pretty good at pulling a 4.6 out of a mustang. I seriously think i can pull a motor faster than swapping a clutch. I can pull a motor in less than 2 hours.

First off, ONLY unbolt the A/C Compressor and the P/S Pump, DO NOT disconnect the lines from one. This way you can pull the motor without draining the P/S fluid or having to refill the Freon. To unbolt the PS Pump YOU MUST have a 10mm ratcheting boxed end wrench with the swivel head. If you dont have that, it will take you and hour to take the P/S Pump off. With the tool, it only takes 5 min.

1. When you pull the motor, Leave ALL the wiring attached. Ignition, harness, everything. Just disconnect the main harness from the connection on the passenger side with the one bolt. The only thing you need to remove is the alternator. You attach the chains for the engine puller using the alternator bolt holes and One hole on the back of the cylinder head.

2. Pull & Install the motor WITH the trans attached. Its much easier to install and remove the trans from out the car. Just discount the shifter and the D/S and pull it out. No special tools to separate it but you might need the special Ford Trans line disconnect tools which can be picked up at harbor freight. If you try to leave the trans in the car it will make a mess.

3. Yes, unbolt the trans mount.

4. Make sure you get the front of the car as high in the air as possible. You need the clearance for the trans. you also need to remove the rad and fan assembly.





 

1987stangman

Member
Jul 12, 2006
684
24
19
Nov 3, 2011
#3
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #3
I agree, pulling the motor wth the trans attached is musch easier, esp with an auto. I have only pulled and put back the engine in my 96' GT and did it the same way as posted above only I removed the lower intake. Took me a bit longer to pull it than my Fox Mustang's engine. I have done it so many times I can get it out in an hour 30, but we are no talking Fox Mustang here.

Used a load leveler in this case too.
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 3, 2011
#4
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #4
There is no need to pull the intake on 4.6 motors when pulling the motor out. Make sure you assemble the entire motor before installing.... wiring harness and all.
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Nov 3, 2011
#5
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #5
I guess I should have clarified earlier. I've already removed pretty much everything from the motor. The PS pump (left the lines on), AC compressor (left the lines on as well), spark plug wires/coil packs. Also went ahead and took the supercharger off (i.e. lower intake manifold). To get the motor out, all I've got to do is get that damned 3rd starter bolt out, the motor mounts, and the bell housing bolts.

So let me get this straight. The motor/tranny assembly will clear the AC lines, but won't clear the radiator?
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 3, 2011
#6
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #6
The third starter bolt is easy cake..... you just need 2 u-joints and long extensions. access it from the front.

The motor with clear the A/C lines, but you need the radiator out of the way so you can pull the motor over the from the of the car. You need that little extra room plus you I didnt want to damage my expensive aluminum radiator. It was much easier without the rad in place.

Leave the trans attached and pull it out with the motor. Trust me.
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Nov 3, 2011
#7
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #7
Thanks for the info man!

I'm planning on pulling it all out tomorrow. I'll let everyone know how it goes.
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 3, 2011
#8
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #8
drain the trans before you pull it out.
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Nov 3, 2011
#9
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #9
SRT Handz said:
drain the trans before you pull it out.
Click to expand...

Fuuuuuu.....

What's the reason for this? It's a PITA, and will cost $60 for new fluid that just got replaced a year ago.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Nov 3, 2011
#10
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #10
When you pull the driveshaft and tilt the trans backwards, it's going to make a horrendous mess on the floor otherwise. I swapped a 4.6 for a buddy years ago and even after draining his auto, it still spilled quite a bit. I'd hate to think if it had the full ~12 quarts, or whatever it took.
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 4, 2011
#11
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #11
Dont be a cheap a$$ as get new trans fluid. You should be changing all the fluids with the new engine and everything together.

If you dont drain the trans its will make it alot heavier.... and you will spill it all out the back.

I drained my trans but i DID NOT want fluid coming out so i bought this... worked like a charm!!! buy it!!

Transmission Stop-Off Tool
 

wht93gtEd

Active Member
Nov 11, 2004
0
9
29
Jersey Shore, New Jersey
Nov 4, 2011
#12
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #12
SRT Handz said:
Dont be a cheap a$$ as get new trans fluid. You should be changing all the fluids with the new engine and everything together.

If you dont drain the trans its will make it alot heavier.... and you will spill it all out the back.

I drained my trans but i DID NOT want fluid coming out so i bought this... worked like a charm!!! buy it!!

Transmission Stop-Off Tool
Click to expand...

yeah I learned this the hard way about 7-8 years ago. when I swapped my auto to manual in my 93 I didn't care about the AOD since I was junking it anyway. We dropped that thing and it looked like a murder scene from Dexter in the garage.

We had to use old moving blankets to mop up the fluid spill haha
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 4, 2011
#13
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #13
Drain the trans.... TRUST ME. See all the mess in the pic below? Thats all because I didnt drain the trans and GALLONS of trans fluid dumped everywhere. It was like a river flowing so hard there was no way to stop it.

 

trombonedemon

Well-Known Member
Jun 25, 2009
1,962
39
59
U.S.A, U.S.A., U.S.A.!
Nov 4, 2011
#14
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #14
SRT Handz said:
Drain the trans.... TRUST ME. See all the mess in the pic below? Thats all because I didnt drain the trans and GALLONS of trans fluid dumped everywhere. It was like a river flowing so hard there was no way to stop it.

Click to expand...

Your neighbors didn't car about all of that Car carnage in your front yard?
 

SRT Handz

I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
Oct 10, 2004
941
23
19
La Mirada, CA
Nov 4, 2011
#15
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #15
Well they shouldnt care because It is my driveway and I can do whatever i want lol.

Plus the carnage like that only lasted like 5 hours anyways.... It was all cleaned by the morning..... After 5 people scrubbed the driveway with OilAbsorber
 
D

Deleted member 38176

Nov 4, 2011
#16
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #16
SRT Handz said:
Click to expand...

Oh now I remember when you swapped motors (in reference to me asking you if your car was NPI)
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Nov 4, 2011
#17
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #17
I drained the transmission fluid, and still had a decent amount spill out. I guess it just hides in every nook and cranny inside the transmission. Fortunately, we had old cardboard on the floor, and most of it was just on it. So all we have to do is pick up the cardboard and throw it away.

Anyways, got the motor/trans out. Really took our time, making sure everything cleared alright. I left the transmission cross-member in, which I really think was a mistake. Once the tail shaft finally cleared that cross-member, the motor came right out. So I think for the re-install, I'm going to take that cross-member out, and reinstall it after it's back in the car.

I'll take a picture later, but I now know why I had no compression in the #3 cylinder. About a 2 inch long piece of the piston ring land is gone. It also looks like the headgasket had failed just below that cylinder as well. Not sure if it was a cause or the result of the #3 damage. Or if it was just coincidental. Haven't gotten the driver side head off yet. Getting ready to go do it right now.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
8,481
8,677
234
S.I.NY
Nov 7, 2011
#18
  • Nov 7, 2011
  • #18
sneaky98gt said:
I drained the transmission fluid, and still had a decent amount spill out. I guess it just hides in every nook and cranny inside the transmission. Fortunately, we had old cardboard on the floor, and most of it was just on it. So all we have to do is pick up the cardboard and throw it away.

Anyways, got the motor/trans out. Really took our time, making sure everything cleared alright. I left the transmission cross-member in, which I really think was a mistake. Once the tail shaft finally cleared that cross-member, the motor came right out. So I think for the re-install, I'm going to take that cross-member out, and reinstall it after it's back in the car.

I'll take a picture later, but I now know why I had no compression in the #3 cylinder. About a 2 inch long piece of the piston ring land is gone. It also looks like the headgasket had failed just below that cylinder as well. Not sure if it was a cause or the result of the #3 damage. Or if it was just coincidental. Haven't gotten the driver side head off yet. Getting ready to go do it right now.
Click to expand...

Little tip guys take a rubber glove and zip tie it around the tail shaft the spill is usually minimal
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Nov 7, 2011
#19
  • Nov 7, 2011
  • #19
Don't forget to take pictures of the carnage!
 

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
Nov 7, 2011
#20
  • Nov 7, 2011
  • #20
d98gt said:
Don't forget to take pictures of the carnage!
Click to expand...

Literally got the piston laying on the coffee table in front of me. Gonna take a picture soon as I finish eating dinner.
 
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