The Motor Pull Thread

sneaky98gt

sneaky98gt

10 Year Member
Apr 23, 2008
2,387
144
114
NC State University
#1
Ok, so I'm gonna be working on yanking my old stock NPI 4.6 out of my car this weekend, and was looking for some info on how to do it and/or any pointers someone might have.

I already know the basics, like removing the AC compressor and PS pump, alternator, wiring, etc. I am going to be leaving the transmission in the car.

So what I want to know are things like:

1. Where do you attach the chains to hoist it out? I'm thinking a timing cover bolt on the front driver corner, and another bolt in the same corner on the opposite backside.

2. What exactly do I need to do to separate the tranny from the motor? I know the 7 bell-housing bolts and starter bolts, but what about the flywheel and/or torque converter? Anything special to do there?

3. Unbolt the tranny mounts or not?

Etc. Etc. You get the picture.

If anyone has any advice, please post away. I've looked around for a lot of this information, and can't find anything specific about it. I want to leave this thread with enough advice that someone in the future can use the info out of it.

Thanks Stangnet!
 
#2
I have done this 3 times so i have gotten pretty good at pulling a 4.6 out of a mustang. I seriously think i can pull a motor faster than swapping a clutch. I can pull a motor in less than 2 hours.

First off, ONLY unbolt the A/C Compressor and the P/S Pump, DO NOT disconnect the lines from one. This way you can pull the motor without draining the P/S fluid or having to refill the Freon. To unbolt the PS Pump YOU MUST have a 10mm ratcheting boxed end wrench with the swivel head. If you dont have that, it will take you and hour to take the P/S Pump off. With the tool, it only takes 5 min.

1. When you pull the motor, Leave ALL the wiring attached. Ignition, harness, everything. Just disconnect the main harness from the connection on the passenger side with the one bolt. The only thing you need to remove is the alternator. You attach the chains for the engine puller using the alternator bolt holes and One hole on the back of the cylinder head.

2. Pull & Install the motor WITH the trans attached. Its much easier to install and remove the trans from out the car. Just discount the shifter and the D/S and pull it out. No special tools to separate it but you might need the special Ford Trans line disconnect tools which can be picked up at harbor freight. If you try to leave the trans in the car it will make a mess.

3. Yes, unbolt the trans mount.

4. Make sure you get the front of the car as high in the air as possible. You need the clearance for the trans. you also need to remove the rad and fan assembly.

IMG_3946Small.webp


IMG_3948Small.webp


IMG_3967Small.webp
 
#3
I agree, pulling the motor wth the trans attached is musch easier, esp with an auto. I have only pulled and put back the engine in my 96' GT and did it the same way as posted above only I removed the lower intake. Took me a bit longer to pull it than my Fox Mustang's engine. I have done it so many times I can get it out in an hour 30, but we are no talking Fox Mustang here.

Used a load leveler in this case too.
 
#5
I guess I should have clarified earlier. I've already removed pretty much everything from the motor. The PS pump (left the lines on), AC compressor (left the lines on as well), spark plug wires/coil packs. Also went ahead and took the supercharger off (i.e. lower intake manifold). To get the motor out, all I've got to do is get that damned 3rd starter bolt out, the motor mounts, and the bell housing bolts.

So let me get this straight. The motor/tranny assembly will clear the AC lines, but won't clear the radiator?
 
#6
The third starter bolt is easy cake..... you just need 2 u-joints and long extensions. access it from the front.

The motor with clear the A/C lines, but you need the radiator out of the way so you can pull the motor over the from the of the car. You need that little extra room plus you I didnt want to damage my expensive aluminum radiator. It was much easier without the rad in place.

Leave the trans attached and pull it out with the motor. Trust me.
 
#10
When you pull the driveshaft and tilt the trans backwards, it's going to make a horrendous mess on the floor otherwise. I swapped a 4.6 for a buddy years ago and even after draining his auto, it still spilled quite a bit. I'd hate to think if it had the full ~12 quarts, or whatever it took.
 
#11
Dont be a cheap a$$ as get new trans fluid. You should be changing all the fluids with the new engine and everything together.

If you dont drain the trans its will make it alot heavier.... and you will spill it all out the back.

I drained my trans but i DID NOT want fluid coming out so i bought this... worked like a charm!!! buy it!!

Transmission Stop-Off Tool
 
#12
SRT Handz said:
Dont be a cheap a$$ as get new trans fluid. You should be changing all the fluids with the new engine and everything together.

If you dont drain the trans its will make it alot heavier.... and you will spill it all out the back.

I drained my trans but i DID NOT want fluid coming out so i bought this... worked like a charm!!! buy it!!

Transmission Stop-Off Tool
Click to expand...

yeah I learned this the hard way about 7-8 years ago. when I swapped my auto to manual in my 93 I didn't care about the AOD since I was junking it anyway. We dropped that thing and it looked like a murder scene from Dexter in the garage.

We had to use old moving blankets to mop up the fluid spill haha
 
#13
Drain the trans.... TRUST ME. See all the mess in the pic below? Thats all because I didnt drain the trans and GALLONS of trans fluid dumped everywhere. It was like a river flowing so hard there was no way to stop it.

IMG_3234Small.webp
 
#15
Well they shouldnt care because It is my driveway and I can do whatever i want lol.

Plus the carnage like that only lasted like 5 hours anyways.... It was all cleaned by the morning..... After 5 people scrubbed the driveway with OilAbsorber :D
 
#17
I drained the transmission fluid, and still had a decent amount spill out. I guess it just hides in every nook and cranny inside the transmission. Fortunately, we had old cardboard on the floor, and most of it was just on it. So all we have to do is pick up the cardboard and throw it away.

Anyways, got the motor/trans out. Really took our time, making sure everything cleared alright. I left the transmission cross-member in, which I really think was a mistake. Once the tail shaft finally cleared that cross-member, the motor came right out. So I think for the re-install, I'm going to take that cross-member out, and reinstall it after it's back in the car.

I'll take a picture later, but I now know why I had no compression in the #3 cylinder. :D About a 2 inch long piece of the piston ring land is gone. It also looks like the headgasket had failed just below that cylinder as well. Not sure if it was a cause or the result of the #3 damage. Or if it was just coincidental. Haven't gotten the driver side head off yet. Getting ready to go do it right now.
 
#18
sneaky98gt said:
I drained the transmission fluid, and still had a decent amount spill out. I guess it just hides in every nook and cranny inside the transmission. Fortunately, we had old cardboard on the floor, and most of it was just on it. So all we have to do is pick up the cardboard and throw it away.

Anyways, got the motor/trans out. Really took our time, making sure everything cleared alright. I left the transmission cross-member in, which I really think was a mistake. Once the tail shaft finally cleared that cross-member, the motor came right out. So I think for the re-install, I'm going to take that cross-member out, and reinstall it after it's back in the car.

I'll take a picture later, but I now know why I had no compression in the #3 cylinder. :D About a 2 inch long piece of the piston ring land is gone. It also looks like the headgasket had failed just below that cylinder as well. Not sure if it was a cause or the result of the #3 damage. Or if it was just coincidental. Haven't gotten the driver side head off yet. Getting ready to go do it right now.
Click to expand...

Little tip guys take a rubber glove and zip tie it around the tail shaft the spill is usually minimal
 
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