Electrical The real Computer ground location

Blucifer99

I only understand every 3rd word
Jul 15, 2018
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Port Mcnicoll Ontario
K im gettin mixed info. Is the computer ground by the battery next to the starter solenoid. Or is the actual ground wire for the computer behind the kick panel next to the computer? There seems to be some mixed info showing a picture of the conputer ground being by the battery. But then people are sayin its under the kick panel. Which one is it.. Im tryin to sync up my wideband to tunerstudios and im gettin some off readings.. I have my ground for the wideband next to the battery where the apparent ecu ground is.. Just wanna kno where the real ground is so i can rule that part out..

Thanks in advance
 
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Courtesy of @jrichker from his Surging Idle Checklist


@jrichker said:
The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.

Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground-jpg.jpg
 
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There are several grounds that are important to computer functions. Not just one.

Well im lookin to rule out volt ground offsets as a cause as to why my tunerstudios is not able to sync no matter what voltage i try in the calibrate afr table.. Right now im using the 0v=7.35afr. 5v=22.39afr. And tunerstudios is always behind by 0.2-0.3. So thats why im lookin for the actual computer ground spot
 
Well im lookin to rule out volt ground offsets as a cause as to why my tunerstudios is not able to sync no matter what voltage i try in the calibrate afr table.. Right now im using the 0v=7.35afr. 5v=22.39afr. And tunerstudios is always behind by 0.2-0.3. So thats why im lookin for the actual computer ground spot

@a91what
 
This doesn't really give you a positive location but you can at least chase and ID the wires:

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Yea i have every diagram on my computer thats been shared on stangnet lol.. I just gotta figure out whats causing the difference.. Cars ready to drive. And with the offset im worried that i wont be able to actually hit my afr targets. Because tunerstudios will always be leaner then the gauge. And steves helped me alot with stuff. Im tryin not to bug him with petty details like this. Hes been nice enough. Figured id give hin a break lol
 
Yea i have every diagram on my computer thats been shared on stangnet lol.. I just gotta figure out whats causing the difference.. Cars ready to drive. And with the offset im worried that i wont be able to actually hit my afr targets. Because tunerstudios will always be leaner then the gauge. And steves helped me alot with stuff. Im tryin not to bug him with petty details like this. Hes been nice enough. Figured id give hin a break lol


Naw... bug him. Starting that forum what [his] idea. LoL
 
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I think that's about all the help I can be without standing in-front of your car with a muti-meter and flash light.

I installed ground busses in my Fox many years ago (maybe 2001). I think that's the last time I explored those points and couldn't tell you exactly where they terminate.
 
@Blucifer99

Grounds

This checklist applies to all Mustangs , not just the EFI equipped cars. Some of the wiring will be different on carb cars and carb conversions

Revised 26 –Oct -2016 to add fuel pump ground to the list.

Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computer controlled engines. In an automobile, the ground is the return path for power to get back to the alternator and battery.

Make sure that all the ground places are clean and shiny bare metal: no paint, no corrosion.

1.) The main power ground is from engine block down by the oil filter to battery: it is the power ground for the starter & alternator.


2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges. The clue to a bad ground here is that the temp gauge goes up as you add electrical load such as heater, lights and A/C.

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

The picture shows the {b] common ground point[/b] for the battery , computer, & extra 3G alternator ground wire as described above in paragraph 2. A screwdriver points to the bolt that is the common ground point.

The battery common ground is a 10 gauge pigtail with the computer ground attached to it.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
ground.jpg


Correct negative battery ground cable.
86-93-mustang-oem-style-ground-cable-gif.56567


3.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it controls internally: it comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to its proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness.

All the grounds listed in items 1,2 & 3 need to bolt to clean, shiny bare metal. A wire brush or some fine sandpaper is the best thing to use to clean the ground connections.

4.) All the sensors have a common separate signal ground. This includes the TPS, ACT, EGR, BAP, & VSS sensors. This ground is inside the computer and connects pin 46 to pins 40 & 60, which are the main computer grounds. If this internal computer ground gets damaged, you won't be able to dump codes and the car will have idle/stall/ performance problems

5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground) coming from the computer. This is different and separate from the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on back of the cylinder head.

6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module ground terminates inside the computer.

7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.

8.) Fuel pump ground the fuel pump has a ground pigtail the connects to the body under the gas tank. You have to drop the gas tank to see where it bolts to the body.

49675.gif


See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. Be sure to have the maximum load on a circuit when testing voltage drops across connections. As current across a defective or weak connection, increases so does the voltage drop. A circuit or connection may check out good with no load or minimal load, but show up bad under maximum load conditions. .

Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections
0.0V bolt together connections

64167.gif


]

Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver. If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.

The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
 
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I did it’s in the fox body tech side.

Here’s what’s going on-

I’m having a problem with my microsquirt V3 talking to my wideband. To start off I have a 89 mustang with a on3 turbo kit. I bought the MS kit that pugs right into the stock harness so I knew I wouldn’t have any trouble wiring up sensors.

My wideband is a Spartan 2. I started off with a on3 wide band and switched thinking it was a junk wide band but I’m still havejng some problems.

It seems like the MS is kind of lazy it will get stuck on a value and stay there until I burp the throttle or do something to it, meanwhile my actual gauge is moving up and down by probably .3 anyone know what could be coding this?

I’ve checked all my grounds even ran some extra grounds. My heater for my O2 is going to the engine block my wideband controller ground is going to the stock ECU ground. Any help would be appreciated I’m up to 14 hours messing with this and I need some help‍♂️

From what I’m told there should only be a tenth difference from the gauge to the MS

Someone also told me it could be something to do with the lag factor?
 
@Blucifer99 did you figure your problem out? having these same symptoms

Yea i ended up goin to the ground behind the kick panel next to the ecu.. I grounded right next to that ground. Helped the offset. I noticed if i grounded to the same ground it still had a .2 difference.. So i self tapped my ground right next to the ground by the ecu and it helped alot..stacking grounds on top of each other makes the resistance worse. Best off to add the ground right next to the ground so it has its own resistance.. And from what i found out. Wideband to tunerstudio will always be behind.. If the wideband say is step 201.. Tunerstudios is step 200. If u get what im sayin. Its never perfect.. I was tryin out different voltages too. I found that 0.91v-7.35afr and 5v-22.40 worked pretty good aswell for my innovate mxt L plus gauge.. But after i figured out the ground thing. I switched back to 0v-7.35afr and 5v-22.40afr. And the gauges just about match. If the gauge reads 13.8 tunerstudios will read 13.8 a split second after. Theres always abit of lag
 
Last edited:
Start your own post and fully and clearly state your problem(s) and I will do my best to help you...
I did it’s in the fox body tech side.

Here’s what’s going on-

I’m having a problem with my microsquirt V3 talking to my wideband. To start off I have a 89 mustang with a on3 turbo kit. I bought the MS kit that pugs right into the stock harness so I knew I wouldn’t have any trouble wiring up sensors.

My wideband is a Spartan 2. I started off with a on3 wide band and switched thinking it was a junk wide band but I’m still havejng some problems.

It seems like the MS is kind of lazy it will get stuck on a value and stay there until I burp the throttle or do something to it, meanwhile my actual gauge is moving up and down by probably .3 anyone know what could be coding this?

I’ve checked all my grounds even ran some extra grounds. My heater for my O2 is going to the engine block my wideband controller ground is going to the stock ECU ground. Any help would be appreciated I’m up to 14 hours messing with this and I need some help‍♂️

From what I’m told there should only be a tenth difference from the gauge to the MS

Someone also told me it could be something to do with the lag factor?

:gtfo:


That did not mean to continue posting about your issues in this thread. LoL

Post all of the symptoms for [your] issue in [your] thread. That's how these things work. JR nor anyone else for that matter, is going to recall the specifics of your issues without the details. Those details should be in your thread and not in this one.
 
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:gtfo:


That did not mean to continue posting about your issues in this thread. LoL

Post all of the symptoms for [your] issue in [your] thread. That's how these things work. JR nor anyone else for that matter, is going to recall the specifics of your issues without the details. Those details should be in your thread and not in this one.

He obvisously made a thread that nobody answered too.. Thats why he posted here.. Now i get that making another thread might help. But if hes already made a thread and nobody helped then. Why make a second for nobody to help on that one?also he asked me what i did to solve my problem considering it was the same as his... Not tryin to be a d*ck. But how rude can u be.. Technically this is my thread so i say hes good posting here.. Atleast here hes got some sort of answer.. Now if u didnt have a solution to his question. Maybe u should just keep scrolling and keep your smugg ass comments to yourself. He can obvisously read. Hes on stangnet.. Have a good day and learn a lesson from this.
 
chill man, as a mod or an admin he gave the appropriate response. It not to be rude at all, noobz knows anti-hero we have all been on the site for a while. Its just the rules my friend.
your pissing on the
guy that runs the site.....
:think: