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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

the suspension is in

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snail50
  • Start date Start date Apr 4, 2004
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DarkBuddha

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
2,215
1
47
Seattle & Tampa
Apr 5, 2004
#21
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #21
About the Shelby drop and the negative wedge (by Pro-motorsports)... The traditional Shelby drop consists of lowering the upper A arm mounting point 1". This helps improve the poor geometry inherent in the original Mustang (Falcon) suspension design. Lowering the upper A arm by 1" should not cause binding, though it may (probably will) cause the ball joint to wear more agressively.

The Pro-motorsports negative wedge is designed to allow for lowering the upper A arm mounting point more than 1", where binding would become an issue. Pro-motorsports recommends lowering the upper A arm 1.75" to really correct the poor suspension geometry. The wedge fits between the ball joint and upper arm to change the angle of ball joint, thus avoiding any binding.

With regard to wheel diameter and the negative wedge, I've heard a number of different things, including the wedge being required with 16x8 wheels. I continue to believe this is backwards... I can only speak for my experience with my '70, but as I recall, the Pro-motorsports kit does recommend the use of 16" (or larger wheel), but I believe that is to clear the upper arm (at the ball joint). And, I would think, based on my experience, that it should be possible to mount a 16 wheel without the use of the wedge... the key is in using the right backspacing.

In my case, I can verify that I was able to use the kit with a 15x7 wheel, but the wheel can have no more backspacing than 4.5" (which is about right for my '70). I actually had to slightly grind the lip on the upper arm to get an extra 1/16" of clearance (just to make me feel better).

Hope this helps clarify, and here is a pic for reference...
 
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bnickel

Founding Member
Aug 21, 2002
5,640
3
77
lubbock, texas
Apr 5, 2004
#22
  • Apr 5, 2004
  • #22
DB, the 16" wheel/shelby drop "requirement" is really only applicable to 65-66 cars, it is not "required" on 67-70 because, as has already been mentioned, the 67-70 cars already have the control arm mounting points lowered some in the "improved design".
 
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rebel65

Member
Feb 1, 2004
363
0
17
SF Bay Area
Apr 6, 2004
#23
  • Apr 6, 2004
  • #23
I am very sure that you do not need a shelby or negative wedge kit to have 16 inch wheels on a 65-66, maybe it is because I ( and another mustang i have seen at the shop ) have disc brakes, but i am very confident indeed that there is no need for the use of anything to allow a 16 inch wheel other than backspacing of 4.5...why i think this is because 15 miles away from me resides a shop called Mustang Ranch ( mustangranch.biz ) and i went in there asking if i could put 16x8's without any modification and they flat out said yes, and here is a car that i can show you that we just finished restoring. these guys are into STOCK, they kept their historic race mustang using stock or modified stock parts, definatly no TCP. Anyway, you do not NEED a shelby drop or wedge to fit 16's but they cant hurt the turning right?
 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member
Dec 11, 2001
2,215
1
47
Seattle & Tampa
Apr 6, 2004
#24
  • Apr 6, 2004
  • #24
bnickel said:
DB, the 16" wheel/shelby drop "requirement" is really only applicable to 65-66 cars, it is not "required" on 67-70 because, as has already been mentioned, the 67-70 cars already have the control arm mounting points lowered some in the "improved design".
Click to expand...
Dammit! I keep forgetting that it only applies to '65-'66 cars...
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
1,246
0
0
Mom's basement
Apr 6, 2004
#25
  • Apr 6, 2004
  • #25
Edbert, I think you are spot-on in your assessment.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Apr 6, 2004
#26
  • Apr 6, 2004
  • #26
LMan said:
Edbert, I think you are spot-on in your assessment.
Click to expand...
Thanks, a lot of what I learned to be gospel in the hobby during the '80s has been "corrected" by others since then.

I found out recently (lost a bet) that the '67 GT/GTA package could be had with the lowly C-code. I have an article by the MCA (from 1985) that says it was only available on A, K, and S-code '67s. Now I find out that the MCA has changed their statement...sigh.
 

LMan

Founding Member
Aug 10, 2002
1,246
0
0
Mom's basement
Apr 6, 2004
#27
  • Apr 6, 2004
  • #27
heh, thats OK, I just 'forgot' yesterday that the '70 Mustang still had a 428 option *doh!* LOL
 

skywalker

Member
Dec 22, 2003
733
0
16
Pensacola, FL
Apr 6, 2004
#28
  • Apr 6, 2004
  • #28
Hey edbert, what's your assessment of the TCP rack? Do you think it or the Flaming river rack is better? (debating which to buy when i have the cash)
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Apr 7, 2004
#29
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #29
Hard to compare the two since I only have the TCP. But the workmanship and materials are OUTSTANDING on the TCP unit.
 

skywalker

Member
Dec 22, 2003
733
0
16
Pensacola, FL
Apr 7, 2004
#30
  • Apr 7, 2004
  • #30
I've not yet spoken to anyone with the flaming river model. They cost about the same though ($1200), so I'm torn. Everyone says that TCP's products are top notch though.
 
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