The timing eye lol

[Paul Perreca]

I put the light on my timing to set it after marking the numbers and lines on the balancer, listen to this

The friggen tdc 10 degrees, was in the little circle (eye) instead of at the point- therefore causing ALL OF MY PINGING!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!! set it at 14* and bada bing - car kicks ass w/ no pinging now!!! however it still bogs like the injectors are sucking dry when i'm flooring it in second, but no pinging!! i think the next thingi s a bigger fuel pump - goin w/ the 190!!

 

[Paul Perreca]

Oh, and just for the big 1000 post!!

 

[Black1987Stang]

Awesome

 

[LB0193]

I think u should just go with the 255 pump, incase you ever want to spray it or go supercharged....congrats on the 1000 post.......!!!!!!!!

 

[Paul Perreca]

off topic lol on the dyno, what difference does it make what gear its in? usually i hear 3rd or 4th, but wats the diff? all i know is my 2nd gear pulls the hardest (to the feel at least)

 

[Michael Yount]

Any lower gear is gonna pull harder Paul -- with traction 1st pulls harder than 2nd, 2nd harder than 3rd, etc. That's simple torque multiplication provided by the gears. 4th usually gives most cars a nice long pull and minimizes traction issues on the dyno. Of course, I've seen some big-number cars that could haze the tires on the dyno in 4th - requiring a re-strap-down.

I doubt a "bog" - as I use the term - is gonna be caused by a fuel pump incapacity problem. If the fuel pump weren't able to keep up, it would likely show up at the power peak, and even then it might not show up till 3rd or 4th gear when the engine is pulling near peak power for longer periods of time than it is in 2nd. By the way, with aluminum heads, your engine will probably like 16 or even 18 degrees of initial timing - ESPECIALLY with that cam. That may minimize your bogging issue as well.

Keep in mind, if you bump it up this time of year, come next spring/summer when temps rise, you may have to ease it back if detonation is occurring. I run 16 summer/18 winter on mine. No detonation on 87 octane.

 

[bobbys9350]

I agree on going with the 255 pump

 

[Paul Perreca]

i think i'm gonna try the timing bump and than the fuel pump and if it still does it, when i have it dynoed, they are going to burn a chip for me, do you think that will solve it?

 

[4G-KDMP]

Oh, and just for the big 1000 post!!

i hope to get there someday.

 

[Paul Perreca]

i hope to get there someday.

it doesnt really mean anything except i'm a loser and i'm on here alot and i ask alot of questions - lol

 

[Michael Yount]

A good tuner should be able to make things work so it will accelerate without a bog -- but it may take a while -- $$.

 

[Paul Perreca]

The tuner said it was gonna be Solid $625, and they are including a custom burnt chip and the dyno graphs and the tune yea!

 

[Michael Yount]

I'd want to ask them about the portion of the tune that usually has nothing to do with wide open throttle running on the dyno -- how it works at light and part throttle below 3000 rpm. That's where you'll see most of your street time. Ask them how they tune in that range.

 

[Paul Perreca]

usually i'm revvin higher than 3000 when i'm racin ppl on the street, if that's what u mean lol i dont think it is though, you mean just street driving like a daily?

 

[HISSIN50]

usually i'm revvin higher than 3000 when i'm racin ppl on the street, if that's what u mean lol i dont think it is though, you mean just street driving like a daily?

Yep. I will take a stab at it and let Michael agree/disagree/expand.

A lot of tuners emphasize WOT performance and dont do much for light load, low RPM drivability (for instance), which is where most of us spend most of our driving time. Who wants a car that runs like an ape at WOT but surges and coughs while driving down the street? That was how a lot of radical carbed stuff was (it was hard to tune a carb to run great in all conditions) but that is where the beauty of EFI comes into play. One can have a 500+ HP ride that idles like stock and runs like a top around town.

It generally takes a bit more time to get the tune smooth for all driving conditions.

Good luck.

 

[DMAN302]

Timing was off eh...I had a feeling, now dial back that fuel pressure with a gauge and you'll likely solve the other issue.

 

[Paul Perreca]

should i just go for a stock FP setting? I think i'll do that either today or tommorow, got a big date tonight that i'm lookin forward to so i think the mustangs just gonna take a backseat for the day

 

[Michael Yount]

Should be at stock fuel pressure - measured with the engine hot at idle with the vacuum line temporarily removed from the reg and plugged -- set it at 38 psig.

What hissin said above -- the vast majority of street driving takes place below 3 grand and with the throttle barely open.